Grey G10 Cleaning and Stain Solutions

[jacobwilson99]

Hey everyone! Looking for some help and advice.

I just got a Para 2 Grey Sprint in recently and noticed it had some stains in the G10. Some of them are light, others are almost bluish.

I've tried scrubbing with a toothbrush and alcohol.
I've tried WD-40 and other lubricants.
I've tried dish soap.
I've tried the ultrasonic cleaner.

Any other ideas? I'd ideally not want to bleach it for fear of removing surface color.

Any ideas and suggestions would be great! Thanks!

jw

[JD Spydo]

Again and I've said it before in regards to cleaning and maintaining G-10 handles>>> there is a product known as Ballistol and it works miracles on G-10 handles. Not only does it do a superb job of cleaning G-10 but it also restores moderately scratched up and marred handles and restores them to almost brand new condition.

I've used nothing but Ballistol on all of my G-10 handled knives for years and have had excellent results with it. Ballistol also seems to do a splendid job in restoring the original color of G-10 because over time it seems to fade under adverse conditions.

I don't think it matters what color it is or which manufacturer made the G-10 because I've never had it not work great. I've also found Ballistol to work great on other knife clean up jobs as well. It also has lubricative properties and seems to preserve all kinds of materials.

[kbuzbee]

Another suggestion, Magic Eraser. Not the conditioner Ballistol is but a good cleaner.

Ken

[jacobwilson99]

Thanks. I'll try them both. I'm just not sure how they will affect stains. They both seem like surface solutions. I'll give em a go though.

[JD Spydo]

Another suggestion, Magic Eraser. Not the conditioner Ballistol is but a good cleaner.

Ken

There is another cleaner that I've found can clean virtually anything. However I do advise to use gloves because this stuff is extremely potent. It is an older, old school industrial cleaner known by many workers as "TSP" or the chemical name is "Tri Sodium Phosphate". Depending on what type of dirt, grime, grease or other tarnish you are trying to remove I've not found anything that works as good as TSP.

Also Bar Keeper's FRiend is a great cleaner too. I've also heard a lot of guys have good luck using a product called "Simple Green".

[Gunslinger]

All you need is some wd-40 and a magic eraser, works like a dream and will make G10 look brand new.

[FCM415]

I use dish soap and toothbrush as a scrub, works great on most types of handle scales for general cleaning.

If I use wd-40, I tend to apply it on the G10 after the dish soap cleaning once dry to spruce the surface up a little bit.

Bar Keeper's friend is a good product and is another option but may be too abrasive on the scales in the long term.

Grey is probably my favorite off color, and magic eraser gets them (and any other color G10/FRN) to looking like new again. Takes care of those annoying marks and smudges.

[phillipsted]

Another suggestion, Magic Eraser. Not the conditioner Ballistol is but a good cleaner.

Ken

+1 on the Magic Eraser, Ken. Don't get the version at the grocery store - they are meant for light kitchen cleaning. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get the version that is made for outdoor cleaning (e.g., vinyl siding, grills). It is basically the same product - but the concentration of cleaner is much stronger in the outdoor version. Also the pads have a more aggressive texture. These worked great on my grey Para2.

Best of luck!

TedP

[Donut]

What do you think stained the G-10?

[Holland]

[Mr.Sparkitle]

Wow Holland that looks great. Did you scrub them with that and then wash them before you dyed the handles?

[Holland]

sure did! i did the same process when i re-dyed them :D

[Evil D]

All I use is water and Magic Eraser. Brings my 20CP Para 2 back to looking brand spanking new every time.

[Johnmichelsr]

Again and I've said it before in regards to cleaning and maintaining G-10 handles>>> there is a product known as Ballistol and it works miracles on G-10 handles. Not only does it do a superb job of cleaning G-10 but it also end of lease cleaning brisbane restores moderately scratched up and marred handles and restores them to almost brand new condition.

I've used nothing but Ballistol on all of my G-10 handled knives for years and have had excellent results with it. Ballistol also seems to do a splendid job in restoring the original color of G-10 because over time it seems to fade under adverse conditions.

I don't think it matters what color it is or which manufacturer made the G-10 because I've never move out cleaning brisbane had it not work great. I've also found Ballistol to work great on other knife clean up jobs as well. It also has lubricative properties and seems to preserve all kinds of materials.

Yes I have been using Ballistol for some time now. It has shown nearly perfect results. There are many other solutions available for cleaning but still Ballistol is best I have used.

[tap78]

1. tooth brush + soap

2. water

3. dryer

4. WD-40 + machine oil

[JD Spydo]

1. tooth brush + soap

4. WD-40 + machine oil

I have a real problem with "WD 40" I've worked a lot of mechanic and machine tool jobs over the years and I've worked with some of the very best mechanics in our region of the country. All of them concur that WD 40 has a lot of long term problems.

Few people realize that WD 40 actually dries over a a period of time and has a varnishing effect as well over the long term. Most gunsmiths and locksmiths quit using WD 40 many years ago for that very reason along with other reasons.

Also it has some harsh solvent properties that I do believe can cause harm to many different types of materials in the long run. There are many spray lubricants on the market that are far superior to WD 40. Most of the CRC line of lubricants are much better IMO.

I would go with any of your Teflon based lubricants over WD 40 any day of the week. I'm not saying that WD 40 isn't good for anything because it is good for a lot of work applications and short term, temporary lubrication problems. But it's long term effects have a lot to be desired.

[kbuzbee]

IIRC WD 40 was never designed as a lubricant. The monicker, WD, stands for water displacement. The thought was it's cohesive nature (film formation) would push water off a metal surface effectively in a field application.

Somewhere along the road, someone noticed it had lubricating properties as well and a whole secondary (and much larger) market was born.

These days there are better solutions for corrosion prevention and there have always been better lubricants. But maybe(?) cleaning composites like G10 is the right use for the product, these days? I haven't tried it so I can't comment, but it's quite possible.

Ken

[Evil D]

I have a real problem with "WD 40" I've worked a lot of mechanic and machine tool jobs over the years and I've worked with some of the very best mechanics in our region of the country. All of them concur that WD 40 has a lot of long term problems.

Few people realize that WD 40 actually dries over a a period of time and has a varnishing effect as well over the long term. Most gunsmiths and locksmiths quit using WD 40 many years ago for that very reason along with other reasons.

Also it has some harsh solvent properties that I do believe can cause harm to many different types of materials in the long run. There are many spray lubricants on the market that are far superior to WD 40. Most of the CRC line of lubricants are much better IMO.

I would go with any of your Teflon based lubricants over WD 40 any day of the week. I'm not saying that WD 40 isn't good for anything because it is good for a lot of work applications and short term, temporary lubrication problems. But it's long term effects have a lot to be desired.

Most people don't understand that WD-40 is not a lubricant at all. The WD in the name stands for Water Displacement. It's also a great regressed but I wouldn't use it as a lubricant.

[JD Spydo]

IIRC WD 40 was never designed as a lubricant. The monicker, WD, stands for water displacement. The thought was it's cohesive nature (film formation) would push water off a metal surface effectively in a field application.

Somewhere along the road, someone noticed it had lubricating properties as well and a whole secondary (and much larger) market was born.

These days there are better solutions for corrosion prevention and there have always been better lubricants. But maybe(?) cleaning composites like G10 is the right use for the product, these days? I haven't tried it so I can't comment, but it's quite possible.

Ken

Yeah I know what you're saying because years ago I've had some of the older mechanics tell me that it was great for spraying on the old type of auto engines with points, plugs and condensers and it would displace water so the engine would start>> and I've seen it work on older engines by doing just that very thing.. WD-40 has a lot of valid uses for it>> I've got an old hillbilly pal of mine who sprays it on his shoulder and tells me that it helps his arthritis pain :eek: :rolleyes: I don't think it's anything I want to try however :rolleyes: But my hillbilly pal swears by it :D

I've used it in the past for rust preventative applications with good success and I've seen it free up corroded door hinges and other types of household repairs. But again I haven't even owned a can of it in quite some time because with all the newer lubes and other chemicals out there it just seems to be quite antiquated for things I need done.

A buddy of mine was watching me answer this thread and he said that many of the modern oven cleaners work great on synthetic polymers and other modern materials for cleaning. Oh Well :rolleyes: I guess it goes with my old saying that I've lived by for years >> "WHATEVER WORKS" and if it works then how can you knock it :)

[phillipsted]

WD-40 is also a floor wax and a dessert topping!

(one of my all-time favorite bits from SNL...)

TedP