Sharpmaker Question

[Robert Ptacek]

I've always wondered about chips people talk about on the rods. What I've noticed is the little anomalies on the rods under magnification appear to be maybe air pockets coming to the surface during forming process. I say this because when I examined them under magnification the periphery of the areas appeared to be more rounded and not sharply delineated like a chip.One of my greys had a very pronounced crease on the flat. I decided to concentrate my strokes on that section to see what effect it would have.When i checked on the newspaper to check the outcome the edge was sharp and smooth.My white rod had a rough patch along the corner of one rod I sharpened that also on it purposely and after a quick strop on my hand I was whittling hairs with it.So from my informal tests i've had no detrimental effects from them.Just no excessive pressure.The imperfections could be things coming in contact with them also during the green state.Just conjecture though on my part.

[anomad]

I picked up an abused sharpmaker in the Cabelas bargain cave one day, just because it was cheap and my lansky was packed away in storage. Cleaned the stones with comet and put it to work. One of the 3 sides of both the fine stones has some irregularities that I can feel. I just don't use those "corners" when I am trying to get the best edge. What on Earth does a person do to damage these stones? I have no idea.

I can get a very satisfactory edge. Can't wait to try the ultra fine stones I have on order.

On a side note I carefully sharpened a 2 dollar Mundial paring knife to 30 degrees. It was laser beam sharp, but dulled noticeably after cutting an apple. I would love to examine the edge, before and after, under a microscope.

[Cliff Stamp]

On a side note I carefully sharpened a 2 dollar Mundial paring knife to 30 degrees. It was laser beam sharp, but dulled noticeably after cutting an apple.

On a cutting board?

[anomad]

On a cutting board?

I tried to avoid touching the plastic cutting board but it may have come into contact with it.

I mean it was still sharp, but it had lost some of the edge. I peeled the apple too.

[Cliff Stamp]

Are you talking about moving from ultra-high sharpness as in hair-splitting, etc. ?

[JD Spydo]

One method I've used on my Sharpmaker is to start out with a moderate force then to taper off to a very light force and I do that on each grit of stones.

Now with the medium/gray stones it really doesn't make as much difference in my opinion as it seems to with the fine and ultra-fine stones. I even sometimes use the ultra-fine stones as sort of a strop in a way. The last few strokes I give the edge is to hold the blade at an exact angle and sort of skate it over a few times.

And when it comes to strops after using the stones I'm coming around to agreeing with Cliff Stamp on strops. I think they do straight razors some good but I no longer believe that they do a knife blade much good at all.

The only reason I use any kind of a strop now is when I use just plain leather to sort of clean the edge. Especially after cutting something that gums up the edge. I also use rubbing alcohol as a solvent to clean the edge with as well especially when cutting open packages sealed with all kinds of tape. Tape adhesive is one of the worst things to clog up an edge in my opinion.

Right now I'm even looking at finer grade stones to achieve a better degree of sharpness. But Spyderco's ultra-fine benchstone I find to be an excellent stone to do a final edge with.

I do stress that everyone of you that are new to the Spyderco Sharpmaker to view the video/DVD that comes with the unit at least 2 to 3 times before attempting to use it for serious sharpening.