Manix 2 Sprint Run CTS-BD-30P
Manix 2 Sprint Run CTS-BD-30P
I recently purchased a Manix 2 Sprint run CTS-BD30P and it is sometimes very hard to close because, the ball gets stuck or something and is very hard to release. This is seems unusual to me because I have an EDC Moon Glow Manix as well as the lightweight Translucent blue model and they both are very smooth and easy to release the ball lock to close the blade. Does anyone else have this problem? If so how did you remedy it?
On one of my Manix models, there is a damaged (like a chip) area on the rounded part of the tang where the ball bearing rides between the closed and open positions. Sometimes the ball bearing will stop or bump against that damaged spot when it hits that spot. A faster closing speed usually prevents that from happening at all.
"All your :spyder: are belong to us."
** WTC # 1032 1533 **
** WTC # 1032 1533 **
This one is smooth into the open position but the faster it opens the harder it is to unlock. I have 4 of these and everything looks pretty much the same between the knives. The two lite weights and the EDC Moon Glow all work very smooth and unlock very well. I can't see any differece between the knives except the Sprint run has a slight notch at the top of the ramp before it drops into the lock position. Also Lubrication makes it worst.
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xceptnl
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I'm going to hijack this old thread instead of starting a new one. Today was the first real opportunity I have had to need to touch up the BD30P edge with more than just a loaded strop. I cut a few hard plastic screw strips today (the kind that joint screws together for auto-feed construction guns) so they would fit in a small box to send to a contractor. The push cut was made into soft cardboard backing so I was not anticipating any hard contact. I was suprised to make about a dozen of these cut only to realize I apparently nicked the edge on a fastener and chipped it out fairly badly in two spots. I knew I could always break out the DMT stones and re-profile the entire edge, but I also didn't have that kind of time. Knowing full well what I really needed to do, I pulled my profile stones and went to work with a subtle micro-bevel in mind. Long story short, the stones preformed terrific as usual and the BD30P took an edge IMO as fast (if not faster) than S30V. Thanks Sal for the great knives and thanks to my fellow forumites for the sharpening wisdom.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
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jackknifeh
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- Location: Florida panhandle
Have you used any oil on the knife? If not, try putting some on the spot where the ball sits when it is open and locked. Another option that is probably not needed is there are ceramic ball bearings you can get to replace the steel one. I did this and saw a tiny bit of smoothness when pulling the buttons back. If I didn't know the ball had been changed I wouldn't have noticed anything. But this may help with a less smooth release like it souns like you have. This does require disassembling the knife which voids the warranty of cours. I really think oil will do the trick if you haven't tried it. If you have, try rinsing the pivot/lock with hot water and soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with hair drier. Good luck.lbwheat wrote:I recently purchased a Manix 2 Sprint run CTS-BD30P and it is sometimes very hard to close because, the ball gets stuck or something and is very hard to release. This is seems unusual to me because I have an EDC Moon Glow Manix as well as the lightweight Translucent blue model and they both are very smooth and easy to release the ball lock to close the blade. Does anyone else have this problem? If so how did you remedy it?
Jack
