Re-handling a PPT, a work in progress
- tonydahose
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Re-handling a PPT, a work in progress
Hopefully a successful one too :p
OK so i have been slowly getting back into a bit of modding. I think i took this apart after a few days of carrying the PPT. I just didn't like the scales, they were too grippy, I honestly don't know how Sal puts up with us, first the knifes are too slippery and then they they are too grippy :D and that isn't even touching the G10 color issue..lol. So this has been sitting in parts in a magnetic tray for too long. I was up at a friend's house in WI who makes pens. We have exchanged wood sometimes and since i had just lost out on some exotic wood on EBAY a few days earlier and he had a nice big block of CEBIL wood and he was nice enough to cut me off a few slabs. I am making this into a thread for 2 reasons, one to kind of make me have to finish the project and two, some of you guys seem to like these how-to threads. I had no clue when i started out modding so i figure if i can give a few pointers to someone thinking about modding a knife I have then successfully started a new even more expensive addiction to go with their knife collecting :D . There are a ton of really talented people on here when it comes to knife building/embellishment/tinkering etc. i dont profess to be one of them or even close but i can share what i have learned. To all those knife gurus, if you have any hints please feel free to jump in and tell me the easy way to do something. I am a big fan of the thought process of giving the laziest guy the hardest job so he can figure out how to do it quickly and easily and if these is an easier way I wanna know it.
as mentioned i took apart the PPT a few months ago so i dont have any pictures of the tear down. It is pretty simple so i will just go with what pictures i have. First off the wood Cebil, it is very freaking hard, it reminds me of desert iron wood.
and with the wax taken off
i sanded one side straight and flat and then cut out with about a 1/16" of extra wood left over on all sides. at this point the slabs are way to thick but i left them this way so if i screwed up when making the recess (it is marked out) for the liner lock i would still have enough wood to try it again.
i remembered that i had a router attachment for my dremel that i bought years ago and never used, well i finally get to :)
i tried a diamond bit as well but this one worked the best but i went way to deep in the first pass. this worked really well shaving off about a 1/32" at a time. i did realize one mistake that i made. i should have used a ruler and the millie to cut/trench the edge out so it would have looked cleaner. the end result isnt bad and i doubt you will be able to see the not so straight line when the knife is put back together. live & learn
OK so i have been slowly getting back into a bit of modding. I think i took this apart after a few days of carrying the PPT. I just didn't like the scales, they were too grippy, I honestly don't know how Sal puts up with us, first the knifes are too slippery and then they they are too grippy :D and that isn't even touching the G10 color issue..lol. So this has been sitting in parts in a magnetic tray for too long. I was up at a friend's house in WI who makes pens. We have exchanged wood sometimes and since i had just lost out on some exotic wood on EBAY a few days earlier and he had a nice big block of CEBIL wood and he was nice enough to cut me off a few slabs. I am making this into a thread for 2 reasons, one to kind of make me have to finish the project and two, some of you guys seem to like these how-to threads. I had no clue when i started out modding so i figure if i can give a few pointers to someone thinking about modding a knife I have then successfully started a new even more expensive addiction to go with their knife collecting :D . There are a ton of really talented people on here when it comes to knife building/embellishment/tinkering etc. i dont profess to be one of them or even close but i can share what i have learned. To all those knife gurus, if you have any hints please feel free to jump in and tell me the easy way to do something. I am a big fan of the thought process of giving the laziest guy the hardest job so he can figure out how to do it quickly and easily and if these is an easier way I wanna know it.
as mentioned i took apart the PPT a few months ago so i dont have any pictures of the tear down. It is pretty simple so i will just go with what pictures i have. First off the wood Cebil, it is very freaking hard, it reminds me of desert iron wood.
and with the wax taken off
i sanded one side straight and flat and then cut out with about a 1/16" of extra wood left over on all sides. at this point the slabs are way to thick but i left them this way so if i screwed up when making the recess (it is marked out) for the liner lock i would still have enough wood to try it again.
i remembered that i had a router attachment for my dremel that i bought years ago and never used, well i finally get to :)
i tried a diamond bit as well but this one worked the best but i went way to deep in the first pass. this worked really well shaving off about a 1/32" at a time. i did realize one mistake that i made. i should have used a ruler and the millie to cut/trench the edge out so it would have looked cleaner. the end result isnt bad and i doubt you will be able to see the not so straight line when the knife is put back together. live & learn
WTC #1444 Always Remember
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My knives
Spydie count: a few:D
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Spydie count: a few:D
- tonydahose
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here it is after a pass or two, i was using the millie to clean up the torn off pieces. i went deeper than i needed to, knowing that i would then sand the whole piece down to where i need it.
a pic with the liner sitting on top of its new home
a side view of both pieces
a nice thing about this knife is that only one liner has that lil flat side in the holes to keep the metal thing a majings (real technical here, i think they are called pins :p ) in place while the screws get tightened. it is real easy to find the drill bit that you need by putting into the other liner that just has a regular hole in it. i actually placed the regular holed liner on the other scale, clamped it and then drilled the holes with the liner as my guide. here it is with 2 of the 3 holes drilled.
this pic has all the holes drilled and me temporary glueing the liner to the wood so i can sand it later (this is how i do it, i am sure there are better ways) i have the pins in to make sure everything is nice and lined up.
after it is glued and clamped i took the pins out to use on the other liner and scale.
here is the other side being glued up and clamped with the pins in.
i only use a bit of glue to keep the liners on while i work on it. they pop off with not too much pressure, just in the right spot :) . that's it for the nite.
a pic with the liner sitting on top of its new home
a side view of both pieces
a nice thing about this knife is that only one liner has that lil flat side in the holes to keep the metal thing a majings (real technical here, i think they are called pins :p ) in place while the screws get tightened. it is real easy to find the drill bit that you need by putting into the other liner that just has a regular hole in it. i actually placed the regular holed liner on the other scale, clamped it and then drilled the holes with the liner as my guide. here it is with 2 of the 3 holes drilled.
this pic has all the holes drilled and me temporary glueing the liner to the wood so i can sand it later (this is how i do it, i am sure there are better ways) i have the pins in to make sure everything is nice and lined up.
after it is glued and clamped i took the pins out to use on the other liner and scale.
here is the other side being glued up and clamped with the pins in.
i only use a bit of glue to keep the liners on while i work on it. they pop off with not too much pressure, just in the right spot :) . that's it for the nite.
WTC #1444 Always Remember
Need info on a particular :spyder:, just click here
My knives
Spydie count: a few:D
Need info on a particular :spyder:, just click here
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Tony, looks like a great start. Looking forward to progress pictures! Good use of the Dremel too
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
- tonydahose
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ok i'm at work today so i did a bit of sanding.
i sand up to the metal and then let off. you can feel and see when it changes from just sanding the wood to the steel & wood. when i am all done i am going to buff out the steel until it is nice and shiny. here are some more pics of the sides.
like i mentioned before, it is easy to pop off the liner from the scale. i was using a belt sander and the piece got away from me and went flying. it hit the floor and the wood came off. luckily it didn't break, i have had that happen before and it's not fun. this pic shows the cut out that i have to make to match the old scale.
here is the spot for the clip to be screwed in
i sand up to the metal and then let off. you can feel and see when it changes from just sanding the wood to the steel & wood. when i am all done i am going to buff out the steel until it is nice and shiny. here are some more pics of the sides.
like i mentioned before, it is easy to pop off the liner from the scale. i was using a belt sander and the piece got away from me and went flying. it hit the floor and the wood came off. luckily it didn't break, i have had that happen before and it's not fun. this pic shows the cut out that i have to make to match the old scale.
here is the spot for the clip to be screwed in
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My knives
Spydie count: a few:D
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- tonydahose
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im done for the day. i just put everything together to see how it looks. i still need to round off the edges and recess the screws.it looks so much thicker than the original but the scales are actually thinner, i checked. i think i need to sand one side a fraction thinner. here are some pics of the knife assembled.
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- phillipsted
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- tonydahose
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thanks..it is fun when it is all done and you didnt mess it up..lol.
WTC #1444 Always Remember
Need info on a particular :spyder:, just click here
My knives
Spydie count: a few:D
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Spydie count: a few:D
I'm really enjoying this thread, Tony. This is something I'd like start doing with some of my knives and my Mule Teams. Thanks for taking the time to photograph your progress. Looks great.
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Lookin good, Tony.
I noticed while looking at Tuffthumbs stuff, when he does stuff that requires milled out liners, he just does layers. He'll add a g-10 liner or something that is the right thickness and cut it in the shape so that it looks perfect from the inside.
Now, I don't know if you could or would want to do two layers of wood, but you could do a black or red g-10 liner.
I noticed while looking at Tuffthumbs stuff, when he does stuff that requires milled out liners, he just does layers. He'll add a g-10 liner or something that is the right thickness and cut it in the shape so that it looks perfect from the inside.
Now, I don't know if you could or would want to do two layers of wood, but you could do a black or red g-10 liner.
-Brian
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A distinguished lurker.
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- The Deacon
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Nice work Tony! Think it will look great when you're done.
Paul
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My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
Great job Mr.Tony!! Looks good so far! I can't wait to see what it will look like when it's finished!
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Newest :spyder: manix 2 lightweight.
:spyder: top wishlist: junior,D4,E4,,h1 D'fly salt,h1 ladybug salt,g10 manbug,caly3•3.5,all sprint para2's
Have to have= brad southard flipper, gayle bradley:spyder:
"combat knife is actually 10% weapon and 90% tool".~ Al Mar
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- Fred Sanford
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