VG-10 and corrosion resistance
VG-10 and corrosion resistance
About two and a half weeks ago my Lum CF came up missing. It was clipped to the pocket of my scrubs and thrown on the dirty cloths hamper. I didn't realize it until my wife had done the laundry so I went looking in the washer and dryer. No luck. Figured maybe it fell out in the laundry room and would show up eventually. a couple of days ago I'm walking past the laundry room and look in at the washer, it's a front load and my wife keeps the door open on it when not in use. I notice a rubber lip on it between the drum and the outer body. Hmmmmmm... I stick my fingers down there and sure enough, there's my Lum. I'm thinking it's going to be ruined with rust. Wrong! A small amount on the blade above the pivot pin and a tiny amount on the top of the Walker lock. I took it apart and a minute or so with a green Scotch Brite pad and some lube and it was good as new. Two and a half weeks in a constantly damp enviroment, I'm pretty impressed with VG-10's rust resistance.
Glad you found your Lum :) VG-10 is very good stuff. One of the all around best cutlery blade steels. It also takes a terrific edge :eek:
It was originally designed to take cuttings from fruit trees for grafting. It had to be very stainless
It was originally designed to take cuttings from fruit trees for grafting. It had to be very stainless
Charlie
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
[CENTER]"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"[/CENTER]
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
[CENTER]"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"[/CENTER]
- dialex
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I second that. I know many people consider VG-10 obsolete but I think this is because of the huge bunch of steel flavors Spyderco spoils us with. If it was for another company we would have AUS-8 (and we'd be happy)Splice wrote:Id honestly would take vg10 over almost any steel any day. Ease of sharpening, maintains it's edge for a long time, and gets VERY sharp. Also it's not super expensive.
The mind commands the body and it obeys. The mind orders itself and meets resistance.
I've used a wide variety of Spyderco steels (not as many as some but including S90V, ZDP 189, XHP, D2) and still find VG10 is my favorite. A good all round steel and relatively inexpensive, would love to try it on some of Golden or Tiawanese platforms, not that that would happen in the near future at least.
- tikkidaddy
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While my experience with other steels is non-existent, I have a hard time imagining anything being more to my liking than these two. That works out great for me too, since knives with these steels tend to be on the lower end of the price spectrum.tikkidaddy wrote:vg10 and s30v are my 2 favorite stainless variety blades
- jackknifeh
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The corrosion resistance of VG-10 is good to hear. I've always heard it was good and I had "labled" my FRN Manbug as my swimming knife. Earlier this year I was cleaning our small pool for the summer and was dressed accordingly (no knife). Of course I had to cut something. I needed to go into the house soaking wet to get a knife. A very generous forum buddy here made me a kydex neck sheath for my Manbug and it is now my knife to have when at the pool. I had chosen it because of the corrosion resistance of VG-10 that I had always heard about. Also, less metal in the knife like the salt series. I have given the knife a bath in Tuf-Glide and now with this corrosion resistance confirmation I'm very happy with the FRN Manbug as a "salt substitute". :)
Jack
Jack
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I never had rust on my VG10 blades though two of them seem to discolor close to the edge, well but my knife care made even a Puma White Hunter rust near the Kraton handle and Gerber Evos get brown at the blade etching as soon as I have them in my pocket. Even some spots on S30V seemed more orange but vanished after wiping off the blade.
VG10 definitely is an upper class all around steel, great EDC, but when it comes to hard/extended cutting my choice is between S30V and D2. Those steels are said to rather chip than roll so it seems agressive edges are more to my liking. I might be a steel snob or a terrible sharpener but the only of my knives in VG10 that holds a great edge over time is a Santoku without any bevel and ridiculously thin. The knife I carry the most is of some exotic steel, by the way: a Robin in 8Cr13MoV. This particular blade hasn't rusted yet but the liners in its handle did.
So it seems I did another test with my Salt1. I still have to find it :p
VG10 definitely is an upper class all around steel, great EDC, but when it comes to hard/extended cutting my choice is between S30V and D2. Those steels are said to rather chip than roll so it seems agressive edges are more to my liking. I might be a steel snob or a terrible sharpener but the only of my knives in VG10 that holds a great edge over time is a Santoku without any bevel and ridiculously thin. The knife I carry the most is of some exotic steel, by the way: a Robin in 8Cr13MoV. This particular blade hasn't rusted yet but the liners in its handle did.
So it seems I did another test with my Salt1. I still have to find it :p
It is possible to make a hard-use "tactical/utility" knife from ATS-34. To make sure the ATS-34 will take the kind of constant worry it might see in this atmosphere, the edge might be left a bit thick or the hardness brought down a touch (forfeit strength and wear conflict), or both. If the same maker moves to much-tougher S30V, he might be able to thin out the edge, thin out the entire knife, and raise the hardness, bringing up piece as a whole. Moving to differentially-tempered 5160 might allow the maker to re-profile even more for performance. If we're talking about a fighter, moving from 1095 to 3V might permit the maker to make the knife much thinner, lighter, and faster, while significantly growing cutting performance and continuing edge integrity.
Rent Scaffolding Cost
Rent Scaffolding Cost