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Half Sack
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 12:55 am
Location: Alberta, undisclosed location of the Weapon Plus Program

#581

Post by Half Sack »

Good replies thanks, it does seem its the blade "kick" meeting with the lock bar is the issue. I tried using marker on the blade tip and didn't see any on the handle, could be the marker wasn't wet enough to mark the handle but trying to look at it, seems the issue is the lock bar blade area.
Whats good for shaving an H1 blade down with a dremel? Its all I have.

Then again I could start with the handle like Hunt did, its just plastic, easier to start there especially if your telling me that is the issue. Why ask if I'm not going to listen right?
Welcome to our newest member, Half Sack
:spyder: Endura4 wave, Ladybug Hawkbill H1, Byrd Hawkbill, PM2 digi camo, Sharpmaker *Sprints: Dodo Orange, MeerKat Burgundy, "R" Nishijin *Discontinued: Caspian H1 :spyder: #ByrdWeek Winner :cool:
No one likes the dark - Robin Sherbatsky
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dwong
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Posts: 228
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:32 pm
Location: sd, ca

#582

Post by dwong »

Did you make those backspacers or order somewhere? I would like the same open back for my org millies.
vadel wrote:Modded Military CTS-XHP

- black painted spacer >>> normal backspacers with modern design and very high-tech looking
- pivot screw >>> alien-head custom screw. polished screw and pivot head. veeeery high-tech looking
- torx-6 >>> good torx-9. slightly polished. better look, no more chance to break screws
- new (better quality) screws for clip. slightly polished
- little work with clip. deleted fins and factory defects on clip's edge
- red fiber "tuning tag" under clip. with hidden unique number and my signature

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I see the atoms free and fine,That bubble like a sparkling wine; I see the songs Electrons sing,Jumping from ring to outer ring;
-Lister
RoBoTech
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Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:41 pm

Lady Bug Sheaths

#583

Post by RoBoTech »

I know this has been done before, but I am very happy with the way these turned out.
I have a home made Kydex press and do make a few sheaths and holsters.
I had some Desert Sand .08" kydex scraps lying on the bench and said to myself "self, there is just enough there to make neck sheaths for a couple of Ladybugs".
I have an older version in Forest Green that has a slightly different shape to the head than the two later models I have. I also have a Jester in Black FRN (NIB) and may make an orange sheath for it.
So, I cut the pieces, heated and pressed, riveted the top, shaped on the belt sander, and added Paracord with break away barrels for safety.
The Ladybugs are so light, the sheath only needed the rivets at the top. This also makes the knife easy to pull and insert. They "click" in.
The Forest green is mine, the black is for my youngest daughter for Xmas. I purchased a Victorinox Black Spartan for my Son in Law.
Stocking stuffers.
Anyway, here's the pics.

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and here is my Daughter's Xmas present by itself.

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Chea...er.... inexpensive gift ideas ROCK!
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Azwaiian
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:08 pm
Location: arizona

#584

Post by Azwaiian »

That is a kick a$$ present for sure! I dig your Ladybug sheaths, very nice, very nice.
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HellHound
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 4:14 pm
Location: Lithuania,Europe,Earth.

#585

Post by HellHound »

I have done this before but I wanted a good feel for my ol' para, so here we have a single point clip, heated stainless steel and a ziptie mod. Love it :)
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thewannabesurvivalist
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EDCTAC
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Location: Minneapolis, MN

#586

Post by EDCTAC »

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:spyder:My mind is the sharpest weapon I have, my spyderco is the second!;)
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vadel
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Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 1:14 pm
Location: Ukraine, Donetsk

#587

Post by vadel »

- all screws >>> TORX-8
- red vulcanized fiber inserts, and accompanying works - modification of seats of barrels, adjustment of length/depth of threaded connections, adjustment and polishing of elements of a handle, change of seats under screws, preparation for installation of additional accessories
- clip's mod: clearing of a factory paint, elimination of defects of edge, change of seats under screws
- nine add screws-"caps" for empty holes
- Audit of the pivot mechanism, exact adjustment and polishing of surfaces on purpose to remove cracks between plates and the back-lock
- some polish work...

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My :spyder:s: C85G2 (EDC), C63GPS, C63GPS2, C63GP3, C65CFP, C65BKP, C65TIP, C143GP, C90PBLE, C90CFPE, C10PGRE, C10PGRE FFG, C10SGRE, C11PGRE, C10JBB, C11JBBP, C11JBOP, C113CFPD, C28PGRE2, C149GP, C135GP, C126GPFG, C36GPBNXHP, C36CFM390P, C81GGY20CP2, C46GGY, C79OR, C142GP, C122GP, C136G, C148G, C28T, LSS3T, C150GP, C95G2
Heespharm
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:09 am

#588

Post by Heespharm »

vadel wrote:- all screws >>> TORX-8
- red vulcanized fiber inserts, and accompanying works - modification of seats of barrels, adjustment of length/depth of threaded connections, adjustment and polishing of elements of a handle, change of seats under screws, preparation for installation of additional accessories
- clip's mod: clearing of a factory paint, elimination of defects of edge, change of seats under screws
- nine add screws-"caps" for empty holes
- Audit of the pivot mechanism, exact adjustment and polishing of surfaces on purpose to remove cracks between plates and the back-lock
- some polish work...

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Love the look what kind of material is that red ?
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Spydesense
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Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:13 pm
Location: North Carolina

#589

Post by Spydesense »

vadel wrote:- all screws >>> TORX-8
- red vulcanized fiber inserts, and accompanying works - modification of seats of barrels, adjustment of length/depth of threaded connections, adjustment and polishing of elements of a handle, change of seats under screws, preparation for installation of additional accessories
- clip's mod: clearing of a factory paint, elimination of defects of edge, change of seats under screws
- nine add screws-"caps" for empty holes
- Audit of the pivot mechanism, exact adjustment and polishing of surfaces on purpose to remove cracks between plates and the back-lock
- some polish work...

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Very nice!
My :spyder:'s>> Fluited Titanium Millie, M390 Millie, Brad Southard, Gayle Bradley, Junior, Bushcraft UK, Translucent Blue Manix 2, G10 UKPK, Sage 1, Sage 2, Ti Damascus Delica 4, Orange FFG Endura 4, Gray FFG Endura 4,Native, Blk Dragonfly, H1 Dragonfly 2, Blue Tenacious, Tenacious, H1 Ladybug, White Ladybug, Grasshopper, Honeybee and Bug
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1623
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:38 am
Location: New Hampshire

#590

Post by 1623 »

That is a sexy Stretch my good man.

Nicely executed.
-Jodi

It's not just in my head, it's in my heart.
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cosmo7809
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Location: New York City

#591

Post by cosmo7809 »

Wow! Very nice!

Great work
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SQSAR
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Location: Castle Rock, Colorado

#592

Post by SQSAR »

Classy, and subtly refined. Nice work.
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Donut
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA, USA

#593

Post by Donut »

vadel wrote:- all screws >>> TORX-8
- red vulcanized fiber inserts, and accompanying works - modification of seats of barrels, adjustment of length/depth of threaded connections, adjustment and polishing of elements of a handle, change of seats under screws, preparation for installation of additional accessories
- clip's mod: clearing of a factory paint, elimination of defects of edge, change of seats under screws
- nine add screws-"caps" for empty holes
- Audit of the pivot mechanism, exact adjustment and polishing of surfaces on purpose to remove cracks between plates and the back-lock
- some polish work...

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Vadel, that thing is beautiful. I like the screws in the empty holes! Also, the red liner viewable through the skeletonized scale looks nice.
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
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vadel
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Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 1:14 pm
Location: Ukraine, Donetsk

#594

Post by vadel »

Heespharm wrote:Love the look what kind of material is that red ?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanized_fibre
My :spyder:s: C85G2 (EDC), C63GPS, C63GPS2, C63GP3, C65CFP, C65BKP, C65TIP, C143GP, C90PBLE, C90CFPE, C10PGRE, C10PGRE FFG, C10SGRE, C11PGRE, C10JBB, C11JBBP, C11JBOP, C113CFPD, C28PGRE2, C149GP, C135GP, C126GPFG, C36GPBNXHP, C36CFM390P, C81GGY20CP2, C46GGY, C79OR, C142GP, C122GP, C136G, C148G, C28T, LSS3T, C150GP, C95G2
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prime77
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Posts: 194
Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:17 pm

#595

Post by prime77 »

Gave my Cara Cara 2 a poor mans stonewash on the blade and clip. Removed the Bryd, trademark and steel etchings then sharpened it up to .5 microns for a mirror edge. That with the glow in the dark backspacers make it a one of a kind.

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Niles
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Posts: 369
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 7:09 pm

#596

Post by Niles »

Nice work. I've never been a big Byrd fan, but that looks great. How's the poor man's stonewash work?
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prime77
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#597

Post by prime77 »

Niles wrote:Nice work. I've never been a big Byrd fan, but that looks great. How's the poor man's stonewash work?
Thanks. To poor mans stone wash put the blade in some ferric acid for 20 seconds or so to darken, wash it off put it in a bottle with some rocks a little water and soap and shake away. I cheated and used a small rock tumbler my wife got off ebay. :D
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razorsharp
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Location: New Zealand

#598

Post by razorsharp »

still have a hard time believing your edges are freehand :D :p
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Mako109
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Location: Seattle/San Francisco, USA

#599

Post by Mako109 »

Anyone know where can I purchase ferric acid? Local hardware store?

Thanks much.
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Stew
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Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 3:16 am
Location: England

#600

Post by Stew »

Mako109 wrote:Anyone know where can I purchase ferric acid? Local hardware store?

Thanks much.
Electronics store, probably. Ferric chloride is what you're after.
Cheers,
Stew.

[CENTER]www.StewartJLight-Knives.com[/CENTER]
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