Show your Mule

A place to share your experience with our Mule Team knives.
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DM11
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#421

Post by DM11 »

MT12 came today. :)
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David
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DCDesigns
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#422

Post by DCDesigns »

jtoler_9 wrote:Finishing my first ever mule. MT11 Used Ironwood for the scales. I'm happy with it for a fist ever attempt. Still just a few more adjustments to go before finished.
That looks great man! well done!
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GLOCKCRAZZ
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#423

Post by GLOCKCRAZZ »

MT7 & MT11
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GLOCKCRAZZ
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#424

Post by GLOCKCRAZZ »

MT11
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DougB2
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#425

Post by DougB2 »

phillipsted,
I like how your micarta turned out! What size screws did you use?
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phillipsted
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#426

Post by phillipsted »

DougB2 wrote:phillipsted,
I like how your micarta turned out! What size screws did you use?
Thanks, Doug! I use the F6 Stainless Pivot Pins from Jantz (http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/f6.htm). These use a 4-40 button head Torx bolt and a 0.1875" x 0.500" threaded spacer. The Torx bolts have a 0.210" head, so if you step-drill your holes in the scale material, the bolt heads will cinch down scales onto the blade. This is the same type of attachment that Halpern provides with its scales.

This set of micarta scales is not glued at all - the bolts, pins and friction hold the scales onto the knife. Since this is going to be primarily a display piece, this is OK - I might even go back and add a contrasting red spacer at some point. But all my user Mules get the Epoxy - especially the non-stainless ones where corrosion under the scales can be a problem...

TedP
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phillipsted
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Problem with artisan Micarta

#427

Post by phillipsted »

I finished another set of scales for my Woodcraft Mules today. For this one, I had high hopes for some "artisan" micarta made by someone on eBay. This was his maroon-and-dark-brown linen micarta. This isn't truly micarta (which is actually a registered trade name) - because it uses what appears to be a commercial-grade epoxy rather than a phenolic base. Overall, I like the color scheme and workability of the material.

The problem with the material starts to manifest itself once I had the scales shaped and began to sand it down. For this life of me, I can't get it sanded smooth - the pits and divots in the material simply don't sand out. Then it dawns on me - these are voids in the epoxy substrate that were created during the backyard manufacturing process. No matter how much I sand, they aren't coming out. So I just sanded it down to 1200 grit and buffed it with green compound on a felt wheel. You can see the result.

Fortunately, when I saw what was going on, I didn't glue the scales to the blade, so I can put another set on later.

Anyone have thoughts about anything I might be able to treat the scales with to fill some of the voids?

TedP

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jabba359
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#428

Post by jabba359 »

phillipsted wrote:Anyone have thoughts about anything I might be able to treat the scales with to fill some of the voids?

TedP
I see people use superglue to fill in small holes in wood. They take some of the wood dust from sanding, mix with superglue, and fill the holes. Once dry, it can be sanded smooth. I imagine it would work just as well for micarta, but I haven't worked with micarta before. Perhaps someone with more experience with this material can substantiate or invalidate my suggestion.
-Kyle

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Latest arrivals: Lava Flow CF DLC Para2, Magnacut Mule, GITD Jester

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SQSAR
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#429

Post by SQSAR »

You are correct, , ,the same techniques works well with Micarta. What I've done before is just put a drop on the gap/hole/imperfection/void that needs to be filled, than then sand right over it. In just a couple of seconds you are good to go.
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phillipsted
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#430

Post by phillipsted »

Good suggestions, folks. I've used the Superglue trick before, but to fill larger divots. This set of scales will require me to coat virtually the entire handle with a thin film of glue, then sand it down. Not sure how that would turn out.

I'm also toying with the idea of using a gun stock finish called TruOil. It is a catalyzed linseed oil product that finishes to a hard durable gloss which can be sanded.

Sorry to get off topic from the "Show Your Mule" thread. I'll post more pictures of the doctored scales when I'm done...

TedP
TheNeedyCat
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#431

Post by TheNeedyCat »

i dont have one :( i want one but everyones so far look great
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Freediver
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#432

Post by Freediver »

Is there anyone that sells CF mule scales? I was just checking out the Halpern site and was bummed to see they don't.
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Donut
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#433

Post by Donut »

Maybe email them and ask if they do.
-Brian
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Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
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Freediver
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#434

Post by Freediver »

Alright, just did. :) I also just ordered a M390 mule a few minutes ago.
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SQSAR
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#435

Post by SQSAR »

phillipsted wrote:Good suggestions, folks. I've used the Superglue trick before, but to fill larger divots. This set of scales will require me to coat virtually the entire handle with a thin film of glue, then sand it down. Not sure how that would turn out.

I'm also toying with the idea of using a gun stock finish called TruOil. It is a catalyzed linseed oil product that finishes to a hard durable gloss which can be sanded.

Sorry to get off topic from the "Show Your Mule" thread. I'll post more pictures of the doctored scales when I'm done...

TedP
Good idea on the TruOil, it will work nicely. When using CA glue (superglue) to cover larger areas like you described, just do patches at a time by spreading the CA around with a Q-tip (you will have to work fast) and you should have no troubles.
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#436

Post by Mr-No »

my Name is Norbert from Germany and this is my first Mule ,
I hope it like to you

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bartvdb
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#437

Post by bartvdb »

mr no ; nice blade **** of a first post! welcome and greeetzzz .
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Senate
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#438

Post by Senate »

that's pretty awesome... what wood did you use?
Alexandre.
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Mr-No
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#439

Post by Mr-No »

sorry , i have forget , the Wood is Stabilized Burl
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DCDesigns
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#440

Post by DCDesigns »

Senate wrote:that's pretty awesome... what wood did you use?
Looks like spalted maple burl.
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