Tan Manix 2 on the way!

Frapiscide · #21

1623 wrote:I've been thinking about ordering an M4 Manix myself.

The size is a bit larger that what I like to carry, but I can't ignore my intrigue with everything that surrounds this line.

The Manix 2 line in general is a very nice line, especially for the money the plain Manix 2. I was a little iffy on the Manixes (Mani?) initially, but was looking to try out M4, so I went with the Manix and left those thoughts at the door. If you have the money to do so, go for it. Plus, Bento Box Shop has really fast shipping.

DeathBySnooSnoo · #22

Frapiscide wrote:So far I'm loving the M4 steel. Like most carbon/tool steels, it sharpens easily, holds an incredibly fine edge and can hold an edge for a long while. 95% of my sharpening experience was with S30V and I can say that it's a little easier to sharpen, at least it was easier to create a burr. It also has far surpassed S30V in terms of sharpness. I wish more folders used tool steels. They require a little more maintenance but IMO, they're worth it unless you live next to or on a body of water.

I love M4...I think that as an all round steel it is near impossible to beat, and I try to mention that we need more M4 as many times as I can in the hopes that Sal will finally give in and out some more out there. *cough*newC95*cough*

BAL · #23

DeathBySnooSnoo wrote:I love M4...I think that as an all round steel it is near impossible to beat, and I try to mention that we need more M4 as many times as I can in the hopes that Sal will finally give in and out some more out there. *cough*newC95*cough*

I know *cough*C95*cough* what you mean.

jackknifeh · #24

Since I've been using Tuf-Glide on all my knives for a few years now, M4 doesn't require any different maintenance than my other folders. After unsuccessfully trying to put a patina on my Manix2 after I had treated it with Tuf-Glide I am even more confident that Tuf-Glide is the way to go with M4 for corrosion protection. I assume other non-stainless blade knives would be the same. I like this since M4 is one of my favorite steels now with what experience I have.

Jack

chuck_roxas45 · #25

Can you still use a tuf-glide treated knife for food chores?

jackknifeh · #26

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Can you still use a tuf-glide treated knife for food chores?

It is not recommended by Sentry Solutions or the FDA. I have used several of my knives to cut foods every so often. It leaves no taste on the food since it dries dry with no oily film on the blade. How it affects the health I have no idea about. If it was terribly toxic I'd think it would be documented more agressivly on labels and in advertisements. So I use it on all my folders and don't use it on kitchen knives.

Jack

chuck_roxas45 · #27

Thanks Jack.

Frapiscide · #28

Just used the knife to cut the heels off two shoes (Never knew shoes had plastic lining) for my friend, afterwards the Manix 2 was still shaving sharp and a minute on the strop and it's back to its razor edge. I'm really loving this steel. Also I think I put a little torque (accidentally, of course) and suffered no edge damage.

Wolverine666 · #29

M4 questions :

1) How is it's edge retention compared the likes of S30V ?

2) How likely is it to rust if it resides in a home on the east coast 1/2 mile away from the beach ?

3) Is M4 on the same level as D2 in terms of toughness ?

All of my knives have stainless blades (S30V and 154CM) and a couple have D2 (non-stainless) so I was curious how M4 stood up against these tried and true blade steels.

DeathBySnooSnoo · #30

This should help answer some of your questions.

http://barkriverknives.com/albums2/albu ... rt_8_A.jpg

As for corrosion resistance....if you live in a very salty or humid area. I would assume that it can be an issue. I get high humidity in the summer, and have had no issues but live no where near salt water. People swear that Tuf Glide makes it hard to get any type pf patina on the M4...will it hold up to salty air. I'm not sure.

Blerv · #31

Trace levels of toxic substances while not "safe" shouldnt hurt you. I mean shouldnt very literally...dont tempt fate.

Mineral oil is cheap. If you go toxic for protection dont spread pb&j

jackknifeh · #32

Wolverine666 wrote:M4 questions :

1) How is it's edge retention compared the likes of S30V ?
I believe it is as good or better. What I do know is I have picked up a knife like the ones I used to use. The blade steel is advertised as stainless steel. The knife would cost between $10 and $20. ALL of the Spyderco knives have MUCH better steel than that knife. Even the byrds and value folders. The $20 knives get dull so fast I don't why I didn't look into better quality sooner. Is M4 worth more as far as money? I'd pay 10% more for M4 but not 25% more if the same knife came in both steels. Those numbers are just examples. What I'm getting at is all of the steels Spyderco uses seem to be about as good as you can get in my limited experience.

2) How likely is it to rust if it resides in a home on the east coast 1/2 mile away from the beach ?
I believe you would need some kind of rust prevention. I lived right on the ocean in FL for 4 years and know what it will do to cars not taken care of. That's just the air. Another big difference is the surf. If there are big waves the spray makes the air very close to the water worse. 1/2 of a mile is pretty close especially if the wind is blowing from the beach. I have used Tuf-Glide for a few years with no corrosion problems. I even left a knife outside for a couple of weeks as a test and there wasn't any rust on it. I tried to put a patina on M4 after using Tuf-Glide and was 99% unsuccessful. So, if you use Tuf-Glide I believe you will be very safe. I even took my Manix2 apart and applied it to the entire blade and tang. The knife goes back together and is perfect. I've taken it apart several times to make scales for it and I now have the original tan scales on it and it is like brand new. I don't think taking it apart is necessary though. I did have a video to go by when taking it apart and putting it back together.

3) Is M4 on the same level as D2 in terms of toughness ?
I've never seen D2. The only steel I've had any problem with toughness is ZDP-189. Sharpened at low angles right at the edge, it will get very tiny chips in the edge. M4 doesn't seem to have that problem AT ALL. For me, that makes it a much more desirable steel.

All of my knives have stainless blades (S30V and 154CM) and a couple have D2 (non-stainless) so I was curious how M4 stood up against these tried and true blade steels.

If I had three knives in front of me (same model) and the only difference was the blade steel I'd pick M4. My experience is limited and I don't use my knives for really tough work so take my opinion with a grain of salt. But, if the same knife was in any one of the steels you mentioned I'd buy it. Add VG-10 to that list and I don't really know why anyone would want more choices. But, like I said my experience is limited.

Jack

Blerv · #33

M4 is extremely tough. You can find charts but its about twice as much as D2. I recall wear resistance is at least on par with s30v if not greater.

Much of this depends on the heat treat and grind. A reason the mule project keeps variables in line.

JCP1969 · #34

Frapiscide , your small collection is full of all my favorites. Good choices and if I could have only 4 Spydies the Top 4 would be them. Just my preference although Spyderco makes alot of great ones

Wolverine666 · #35

jackknifeh wrote:If I had three knives in front of me (same model) and the only difference was the blade steel I'd pick M4. My experience is limited and I don't use my knives for really tough work so take my opinion with a grain of salt. But, if the same knife was in any one of the steels you mentioned I'd buy it. Add VG-10 to that list and I don't really know why anyone would want more choices. But, like I said my experience is limited.

Jack

Thanks for the insight , Jack. I have no experience at all with M4 so I was just trying to gather some info and knowledge. I'm always interested in different blade steels. I'm on Cape Cod , MA so the air is pretty moist and salty here. Although , with the arrival of fall , the air has been nice and crisp lately. I'm quite partial to S30V. I'd say it's my top pick. But I do have a soft spot for 154CM even though it's not viewed as a "premium" stainless these days. It's very common but it's work horse and is easy to sharpen.

My experience is very limited too. But I'm eager to learn.

DeathBySnooSnoo · #36

If you look at the chart that I linked to a few posts up, you can see that M4 is tougher and has better edge retention than S35V (which is ever so slightly tougher than S30V and has the same edge retention).

It's not as tough as 3V and it doesn't have the edge retention of S90V...but it is a good blend of both IMO.

And I like 154CM too, in my limited experience it does perform slightly better than VG-10. And at least in my knives, I find that it has a "grabbier" edge.

ranger51 · #37

Congratts, the Manix is a solid knife.

JacksonKnives · #38

Frapiscide wrote:Has anyone here carried a carbon steel blade (folder or fixed) IWB or in the small of the back? Has there been any issues with rust/discoloration? Every once in a while, I like to carry IWB or in the small of the back to allow more room in my pockets.

This is where things get tricky for tool steels. My M4 started to darken on one side after an afternoon of IWB carry. (Then again, my sweat is pretty acidic--I can permanently stain the pits on my white shirts within a few wearings.

) It's not as dark as the Super Blue Caly got (both sides were a mottled grey after approximately the same amount of time), but it's definitely noticeable--you can clearly see the line of the edge of the handle scales. There's no noticeable darkening on the other side yet, but I stopped wearing this knife IWB for the time being until I can decide whether to polish out the stain or just patina the whole thing...

DeathBySnooSnoo · #39

JacksonKnives wrote:This is where things get tricky for tool steels. My M4 started to darken on one side after an afternoon of IWB carry. (Then again, my sweat is pretty acidic--I can permanently stain the pits on my white shirts within a few wearings. ) It's not as dark as the Super Blue Caly got (both sides were a mottled grey after approximately the same amount of time), but it's definitely noticeable--you can clearly see the line of the edge of the handle scales. There's no noticeable darkening on the other side yet, but I stopped wearing this knife IWB for the time being until I can decide whether to polish out the stain or just patina the whole thing...

You should try Tuf-Glide...

DrChimRichalds · #40

Very nice. Been wanting a CPM-M4 Manix 2 for a while now. I think if I sell one of my Militarys I might out the funds towards one.