I cleaned rust off the stop pin on my Leafstorm today and on the backside of the clip on my M4 Manix 2 (I know, of all things to rust on that knife).
I assumed the clips, stop pins, etc. were some stainless steel. The Manix hasn't been carried, so the rust on that clip surprised me.
Para 2 rust? (Some questions)
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Fred Sanford
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- Location: Ohio, USA
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hunterseeker5
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- Location: Usually somewhere on the east coast
I should preface this by saying of the Para2s I have the s90v, 20CP, and DLC S30V and haven't seen any rust on any of them. Why? Well the first thing I do is coat EVERYTHING in paste wax or butchers wax. You can buy the stuff anywhere and using a q-tip and some thin paper you can get it just about everywhere on your knife. Put it inside on the liners and never worry about it again. Wherever it rubs off that part of the knife gets rubbed enough that it'll probably never rust.
The other backup strategy I use on other tools of mine which aren't so rust resistant and do sometimes rust. You see there are lots of phosphoric acid (naval jelly) products out there but they are aggressive and hard on most things other than metal. They also have to be wiped on which is a PITA most places. Finally they turn even the tiniest rust spot into a massive black scar. My solution, and this is not any paid endorsement or anything, is a product called evapo-rust. Its gentle enough you can immerse an entire knife in it and it'll eat the rust. Their time estimates are, in my opinion, a little optimistic but it really works. I use it on all sorts of tools, but if I ever do see rust on my para2 (or any other knife) I'll just drop it in a jar of the stuff and it'll come out shiny and new. Its very mildly acidic, including some phosphoric acid, so if you leave stuff in for a week you'll start to see gentle etching and minor black phosphate deposits where some of the rust used to be, but its nothing like naval jelly.
This was rusted evenly, and wouldn't fit completely immersed in the jar. I shook it up and left it for ~15 hours and you can clearly see the line where the solution was. Below it the steel is clean and above well.......
The other backup strategy I use on other tools of mine which aren't so rust resistant and do sometimes rust. You see there are lots of phosphoric acid (naval jelly) products out there but they are aggressive and hard on most things other than metal. They also have to be wiped on which is a PITA most places. Finally they turn even the tiniest rust spot into a massive black scar. My solution, and this is not any paid endorsement or anything, is a product called evapo-rust. Its gentle enough you can immerse an entire knife in it and it'll eat the rust. Their time estimates are, in my opinion, a little optimistic but it really works. I use it on all sorts of tools, but if I ever do see rust on my para2 (or any other knife) I'll just drop it in a jar of the stuff and it'll come out shiny and new. Its very mildly acidic, including some phosphoric acid, so if you leave stuff in for a week you'll start to see gentle etching and minor black phosphate deposits where some of the rust used to be, but its nothing like naval jelly.
This was rusted evenly, and wouldn't fit completely immersed in the jar. I shook it up and left it for ~15 hours and you can clearly see the line where the solution was. Below it the steel is clean and above well.......