Can a Spyderwawk blade go into an Endura 4 handle?

[TrojanDonkey]

I have an Endura 4 green FRN knife that I don't use much anymore.It dulled down so much instead of just stropping it with shoelace and compound as I did for years I used a round ceramic stone and it just got duller.I should have sent it back for resharpening and just stropped it like I did for the last couple of years but oh well. I like the Spyderhawks and love my Byrd Meadowlark hawkbill.**** of a work knife for the $. I have been stropping it,keeping it sharp for months.I want to know if the Spyderhawk blade will simply go into my FRN Endura handle with no problem or will there be fitting/screws or lock problems.I know(think) the Spyderhawks are in Endura 3 handles now and some use torx construction and some older ones use torx so am not sure if it will work. :eek: Hey Sal how about making some other colored Spyderhawks. I want more choices basic black,red,blue etc like Enduras and Delicas.Safety orange would also be good for a dive knife IMHO. Would have pulled the trigger on one if it was not yellow.May still buy one and Rit Dye it.Or leave it yellow.

[Sithus1966]

Easy answer, no. The lock bar on the Endura is longer and the lock on the Spyderhawk is shorter. That puts the lock release area in different spots on the knives.

[TrojanDonkey]

Thanks.They looked different online but I never had a Endura 3 so was not sure.

[I_like_sharp_things]

Why can't you just sharpen it back to the way it was before?

[TrojanDonkey]

Why can't you just sharpen it back to the way it was before?

I need to send it in for resharpening if possible.I tried cutting some super hard plastic we never used before at work and it really dulled the blade.Normally a shoelace and stropping compound once week was fine.This new proprietary super plastic is hard and brittle but super light so it fooled me on its hardness. Cutting 20 feet of it did more damage/dulled my blade than the regular plastics would do after cutting 300 feet!We now cut it with a hacksaw-no joke. It is superhard and wont bend like PFA or PTFE or FEP or Nylon or PEEK or other plastics.Shatters like glass if slammed during a fit-dont ask.I could not get it sharp again stropping only.Tried a ceramic rod and it made things worse.My fault.It has a bit of wear on it.Can the factory still sharpen it back to factory sharp? I do not have the original box-is that a problem?Two years old.I have many work knives so am not in a rush.Just hope blade is not worn too much for sharpening.This is a good or was a good knife but NO knife will cut something this hard.This is Aerospace tough polymer-cant elaborate anymore on that but suffice to say the knife cut a lot of cardboard and cable ties and plastics EASILY before the incdent with super plastic.I cut so much cardboard/plastic the blade was so hot I thought it would burn the temper out or catch paper on fire.Awesome.It would be like cutting bricks with a knife.Wrong tool for the job.Another life lesson learned.

[I_like_sharp_things]

That makes more sense now. I was wondering what in the world would make it that hard to sharpen a knife. I'm sure spyderco will sharpen the knife without the box. Good luck getting your knife back into working condition.

[Donut]

I had never heard of stropping SE with a shoe lace. Thanks for the idea.

[Blerv]

I would definitely contact them. The free sharpening *should* apply.

The only time it wouldn't (I think) is if you sent it to them in a baggie in pieces or the blade was beyond thrashed. They typically consider that a restoration job, like with mucked up serrated teeth.

That said, I've seen a restored SE knife that looked like it went though Dante's Inferno. Pretty dang impressive work when it came back.

[BAL]

I'd go for more color chioces on the Spyderhawk myself. Even a black or Grey would be fine to start.

[Sithus1966]

I'd go for more color chioces on the Spyderhawk myself. Even a black or Grey would be fine to start.

That's why we dye them, because we don't want just yellow.