Working G-10 into scales

[jackknifeh]

I bought 3 sets of G-10 to make scales out of. One of the sets has red and black layers but you can only see black right now. I assume I'll sand them down and see the red. But if the scales on the knife are flat and not rounded except for a tiny bit around the edge to be more comfortable I'm wondering how much of each color I'm going to see. I want to see a lot of both colors. The other two sets are orange and blue. Both sides of the G-10 is shiny almost like a mirror. I've already made one scale out of the blue and sanded it to remove the shiny surface and it looks ok. It doesn't have the textured surface that my Manix2 has though which I like. Can G-10 be bought with one surface with that texured surface which provides a better grip? Also, what options are there for finishing the G-10. A spray finish or something? The scale I have done looks good to me but I'd like to know of other options for finishing. Maybe for a different look (shiny or dull?) or for a somewhat tacky feel for grip. I don't know what options are available if any. You can probably tell this is my first try with G-10. :) All I did to it so far is sand it and polish it a little with a Dremel. Any help is appreciated.

Jack

[Donut]

I think you will always see some of the alternate color because you will always round down the sides. I do think the two colored scales are best for a scale you are going to contour quite a bit.

If you look at the scales the-knife-connection produces, I think you can get two colored scales cut diagonally from the direction the pattern goes. I normally don't see it sold that way, though.

[dsmegst]

Here's an example with black/blue G-10:



The two grooves at either end are a little more than 1/16 inch deep and shows 8 layers total. So a fair amount of curves are needed for a decent showing of layers.

[jzmtl]

The texture on manix 2 is molded during production, you can't really reproduce it from a smooth G10.

As mentioned above, to see the layers you need to create some peaks and valleys.

[Donut]

The texture on manix 2 is molded during production, you can't really reproduce it from a smooth G10.

Actually, I've heard textured G-10 referred to as "Peel Ply". Doesn't that suggest that the people who make the G-10 put the finish on it and you would just need to peel the leftover off when you were done?

[jackknifeh]

Here's an example with black/blue G-10:



The two grooves at either end are a little more than 1/16 inch deep and shows 8 layers total. So a fair amount of curves are needed for a decent showing of layers.

That is really beautiful. My layered G-10 isn't anything like that.

My G-10 slab is 1/8" thick. I got it from Jantz. In the picture there are 5 layers of each color. I hadn't thought about it but that would make for some VERY thin layers of each color. I sanded one end at an angle and never saw any red to speak of. This stuff might as well just be black. This is my first attempt so maybe it's me. Well, the 1 1/2" x 10" slab was only $4. I did finish a set of blue G-10 for my Manix2, 154CM black blade and it really looks nice. The first time I had it outside and opened it then it REALLY looked good. The color combo I mean. My work is adequate but nothing special. It could be sanded/polished better maybe but just a quick polish with my Dremel has left it with a nice "working man" appearance. I'm not ashamed to open it in public. This is the first knife I've made scales for that I am happy with. A couple of attempts with bone worked but I didn't like the feel of bone. I still have an orange G-10 slab that I'll probably use for Manix scales and see how they look on the black blade and also the M4 blade knife. Also, the G-10 without the textured surface that is on the original scales still provides a great grip. It has become my favorite material for grip except for kraton. But, kraton is so grippy it is 100 times worse for getting out of you pocket using a clip than G-10. Even in a leather sheath it is a little difficult if the sheath is snug. A nylon sheath works well for kraton scales though, they just slide out of the nylon sheath That's important for me because I like a sheath for larger folders like the Manix2.

Jack

[The Deacon]

I think you will always see some of the alternate color because you will always round down the sides. I do think the two colored scales are best for a scale you are going to contour quite a bit.

If you look at the scales the-knife-connection produces, I think you can get two colored scales cut diagonally from the direction the pattern goes. I normally don't see it sold that way, though.

I'd agree, two colored G-10 and two colored stabilized plywood like Dymondwood, is best used for well contoured scales, Using it for flat scales is somewhat pointless, since only one color will show.

[jackknifeh]

I'd agree, two colored G-10 and two colored stabilized plywood like Dymondwood, is best used for well contoured scales, Using it for flat scales is somewhat pointless, since only one color will show.

So I see. I was hoping to use the red/black on my black blade Manix and thin the scale where the lock buttons are and the 3 screws leaving the other end 1/8" thick. The area around the buttons needs to be thinner to give adequate access to pulling the buttons back. That thinning was going to reveal enough of the red to look good but it looks to me like the scale I got won't show the red enough to matter no matter what. Again, maybe it's me.

Jack

[The Deacon]

No, I don't think it's you. IMO, that material works best on fixed blade knives where relatively thick handles are the norm and normally contoured. It can work on folders, but only if a fairly thick handle is acceptable, so it can be contoured, or you want the sculptured/corrugated look as on the PPT and Zulu. Truth is, even micarta and regular G-10 look better when contoured or sculpted, as doing so reveals beauty in the material that is hidden when it is used as flat slabs. Just compare the micarta on the Perrin Street Beat, or the G-10 on the Temperance 2 with the same materials when used as flat slabs.

[Evil D]

You might look into doing the corrugated grooves like a lot of guys are doing now. That would give you plenty of deep cuts to show off the colors.

[jzmtl]

Actually, I've heard textured G-10 referred to as "Peel Ply". Doesn't that suggest that the people who make the G-10 put the finish on it and you would just need to peel the leftover off when you were done?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the part you peel off is part of the mold with the texture built in, so the epoxy underneath conforms to the same shape.

[jackknifeh]

Actually, I've heard textured G-10 referred to as "Peel Ply". Doesn't that suggest that the people who make the G-10 put the finish on it and you would just need to peel the leftover off when you were done?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the part you peel off is part of the mold with the texture built in, so the epoxy underneath conforms to the same shape.

I've heard of "peel ply" but I think it was referring to carbon fiber scales. During manufacturing there is a sheet of something like very fine woven cloth which is on the CF when hot and at some point the cloth is pulled off leaving the textured surface. I really have no idea, that's just how I picture it from what I've read.

I did a set of blue G-10 for the black 154CM blade knife and I really like it. Then I did a set of orange G-10 for the M4 Manix2. The orange is a pretty color but them on the knife just didn't work for me. Just looking at it was a turn off. Tan is back now. I believe the M4 tan will stay together for me.

Jack

[Gunslinger]

Ask Tuffthumbs, This is his cup of tea.

[Donut]

Jack, I heard Sal refer to textured G-10 as peel ply.

Searching google I found this page with peel ply G-10. I don't really know how to work with it. I am sure there is a howto somewhere.

http://www.masecraftsupply.com/Merchant ... y_Code=G10

*Edit* Here is a little info about it:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/sho ... 0-Textured

[jackknifeh]

Jack, I heard Sal refer to textured G-10 as peel ply.

Searching google I found this page with peel ply G-10. I don't really know how to work with it. I am sure there is a howto somewhere.

http://www.masecraftsupply.com/Merchant ... y_Code=G10

*Edit* Here is a little info about it:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/sho ... 0-Textured

Thanks for the Masecraft web site. They have a wide selection of stuff.

Jack

[Donut]

No problem. I would like to see someone do a documentary thread on making scales with peel ply g-10.

I'm not sure if it would work good with a Mule because you would have to keep it pretty flat except the edges.

[jackknifeh]

Is the dust from G-10 dangerous to breath? :eek: I normally use a wet/dry vac and keep the end of the hose right where I'm cutting or sanding but is that enough? :confused: I do that mainly to keep the dust off my bench, tools, etc. Maybe I should get a gas mask from the Army/Navy store? :D

I just remembered that some materials are toxic.

Jack

[TooSharp]

G10 is basically fiberglass, PPE is always required. The dust can give some a rash on the skin, but is very bad to breath.

The peel ply is just what everyone is speculating. It has a plastic backer. You peel it off when the knife is about complete and the texture is left.

If you want to add texture to G10 after the fact you can either corrugate it (Anso texture) or media blast it, sanding with a rough grit doesn't provide much texture and is tough to make look good.

[jackknifeh]

Here are a couple of sets of scales I made if anyone is interested. One scale of each color is on the knife for the "photo shoot". :)

[ATTACH]17023[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17024[/ATTACH]

Jack

[DeathBySnooSnoo]

Looks like they turned out pretty good there Jack, nice job!