I thought I'd try to get a poll with some of the ideas that Sal threw out to us about the design for a larger Kiwi.
Blade spine as a smooth wharnie (a-la-Deacon) or notched like the original
Bolsters or full scales?
Hollow or flat grind?
Clip: Definitely no, yes please, don't care as long as it's removable
Here's Sal's original request and description of the model.
sal wrote:As a result of requests from afi's, we have a design for a larger Kiwi. Just under 3" in blade length. Mid-Lock-back like the original. Will be higher line like the original and made in Seki by the Kiwi maker. Have some Q's.
sal
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
There's already a 3" wharncliffe with full scales and a clip in the lineup so, for me, a larger Kiwi should definitely double bolstered and clipless. Strong preference for FFG. As for the smooth spine, I like it but it's the least important element to me.
I think it would look nicer without a clip, but i know i would carry one less if it didn't have a clip because i carry so much other junk in my pockets, i like to keep things organized and i hate the thought of a nice bolstered/scaled knife riding along with a pocket full of change. The other pocket is out because my cell phone rides there and i don't carry anything else in that pocket so the screen doesn't get scratched up.
I'd like to see the original notched spine, double bolsters like the original, grind's not important but a high hollow grind would be my preference, and I'd like to a see a single position clip similar or identical to on the Kopa.
I like the looks of the Kiwi but never bought one because it's too small, and no clip. Now we may just have a winner. I know I will not get all that I want on this knife, but a larger knife and a clip may be enough to carry me.
Of course a smooth spine and one bolster would help also.(no way Sal will go with no bolsters) :)
I'm kind of shocked so many people want a knife like this saber ground...are you guys considering how extremely thin the tip is going to be on it with that notch in the blade? With it being a larger knife i would want the blade to be a bit stronger...of course not "hard use" but i don't want a fragile tip either. With the spine being so close to the edge at the tip, if it's FFG it's going to be razer thin at the tip and i bet a lot of them will get broken.
Evil D wrote:I'm kind of shocked so many people want a knife like this saber ground...are you guys considering how extremely thin the tip is going to be on it with that notch in the blade? With it being a larger knife i would want the blade to be a bit stronger...of course not "hard use" but i don't want a fragile tip either. With the spine being so close to the edge at the tip, if it's FFG it's going to be razer thin at the tip and i bet a lot of them will get broken.
I agree, that's why I voted for a hollow grind. I think the grind fits the blade shape perfectly in the original, as the grind line starts parallel to the notch and fits in perfectly with the lines of the knife. I don't really see how an FFG would be that beneficial, since most of the knife is very thin, and then the rest has the kind of thicker part that houses the spydie hole. I wouldn't want to sacrifice overall thinness in the grind just to accommodate the thin tip. I think this is a blade shape that's made for a hollow grind if there ever was one. Plus, we already have some FFG wharncliffes in the size range with the Urban and Des Horn (and both have a more gradual descent to the tip, and even so the Horn seems about as thin a tip as possible.)
I think the combination of ffg AND the notch would leave the tip pretty delicate. With the arched spine, I think ffg would be awesome. With notch, not so much.
"If you can't annoy somebody, there's little point in writing." — Kingsley Amis
• Notched Wharncliffe Blade (distinctive design unique to Spyderco)
• Jimped Finger Choil (extra traction is always a good thing, especially on a smaller knife and effective selling point)
• Full Flat Ground (efficient cutting overrules original’s sabregrind)
• Bolsterless (lighter weight, easier for maker (Moki?) to build and fewer parts = less expensive and hopefully faster availability. ;o)
• G-10 handle scales (universally the best handle material - weight, strength, cost, texture, wearability, durability, finishing, etc.)
• Wire Clip (right-hand/left-hand, perhaps a single wire clip as will be used on Galye’s new design. If no clip use William Henry Clip Case.)
• Simultaneously develop a SlipIt version for to maximize worldwide sales.