Para 2's Compression Lock

Falco · #1

Hey all, I've been edc'ing my Para 2 for a while now, and I am really enjoying this knife. But I have a question for the other Para 2 owners here regarding the compression lock. Do you guys sometimes find it a bit difficult to disengage the lock, to the point that its a bit painful on your finger?

Now don't get me wrong, it usually closes with no problem.... but ever so often when I depress the lock, it just won't budge. After a bit of fumbling with it, it'll close... but its really annoying. Other times it's more difficult to disengage, and upon pressing it, will *SNAP* as though it was stuck on something, before closing. (Although there's really nothing there for it to get stuck on.) I tried applying some Benchmade Blue Lube into the locking area of the blade, and this has only proved to be a very temporary fix. The next few opens and closes will be pretty smooth, but before long (often within the same day) it'll go back to being difficult again.

Again, this only happens maybe... once out of every 10-15 times I use the knife, and isn't that huge of a deal at all, but I'm curious if anyone knows of a way to make the actuation of the lock a little more smooth to keep it from happening?

(I'm using the s90v variant, of which I've noticed has a slightly different lock, compared to the regular para 2's I've seen on youtube, with the extruded piece being a bit lower down. This probably isn't a factor, but all the same.)

Evil D · #2

Try some wax based lube like White Lightning. I used it on my Paramilitary and it's a totally different knife.

Falco · #3

Evil D wrote:Try some wax based lube like White Lightning. I used it on my Paramilitary and it's a totally different knife.

Thanks Evil, I'll try that!

P K · #4

I am actually having a similar problem with my s90v para 2. I have tried some Crk grease that works great for other stuff but it had a no noticeable effect. I am considering giving spyderco a call about it.

Phil

Orion's Belt · #5

I am having a similar problem with my Para 1. It is downright hard to disengage the lock sometimes and others it is still hard but not as bad.

jylong_away · #6

The S90V and 'second run' s30v versions have a wider/taller cutout for the compression lock (a wider leaf spring when you look at it side on). The tab has also been moved nearer towards the tang to allow for leverage. I think this has resulted in an overall greater lock tension and detent.

Mine did initially have some 'sticking' of the lock, making it hard to disengage, but it seemed to wear in with time, and now doesn't stick. I honestly do prefer it that way, since there's potential for the lock to last longer!

On a side note, I think they also milled the lock-side scale a bit deeper, to allow the BB detent to fully disengage from the tang when you push hard enough. Seems to have solved the problem of the BB 'catching' the blade on the closing arc, which was making it hard to swing shut.

Frapiscide · #7

It should break in after a week or two. If it isn't helping, put pressure on the top corner of the tab towards the blade. That way, you have more leverage. Surprisingly, it's a big difference to move your finger forward about 1/8".

Brad S. · #8

You guys that a lubing that area are actually making it worse, not better. The best way to make it stick less is to get it as clean as possible. Take a q-tip dipped in acetone, or rubbing achocol, and clean the tang where the lock engages, and keep doing it till its spotlessly clean.

By lubing the lock your makeing the lock travel farther into its action, thusly its a tighter lockup, not a bad thing to one dregree, but it doesnt need it. And it makes it difficult to unlock...

Stop lubing your locks!

This is true of all locking mechanisims.

dsmegst · #9

How are you operating the lock? I first used my thumb like every other lock but switched to using my index finger. I had to shift my grip but it works much better.

I'm not sure if it's a good idea but I've used pencil (graphite) to smooth out Ti frame locks. I've never tried it on a normal stainless steel lock.

Evil D · #10

Brad S. wrote: By lubing the lock your makeing the lock travel farther into its action, thusly its a tighter lockup, not a bad thing to one dregree, but it doesnt need it. And it makes it difficult to unlock...

I can see your point here but i can't 100% agree because this isn't the case with mine. Also i think a LOT of the hard to unlock issues with this particular lock might be from people flicking the lock open excessively hard...because the few times i've played around and snapped mine open i noticed the lock was hard to disengage.

Really though, on just general thumb opening and typical EDC use, mine is like night and day with the wax lube vs. being completely dry.

JNewell · #11

Brad S. wrote:You guys that a lubing that area are actually making it worse, not better. The best way to make it stick less is to get it as clean as possible. Take a q-tip dipped in acetone, or rubbing achocol, and clean the tang where the lock engages, and keep doing it till its spotlessly clean.

By lubing the lock your makeing the lock travel farther into its action, thusly its a tighter lockup, not a bad thing to one dregree, but it doesnt need it. And it makes it difficult to unlock...

Stop lubing your locks!

This is true of all locking mechanisims.

I have found this to be true with RIL and Walker-type locks.

jhb · #12

i don't own a para 2 yet, but my para sort of has this issue. although not as often as you mentioned. i do notice sometimes without ryhme or reason the lock is quite hard to press, although not as hard as you are describing, but i have to readjust my index finger to get a better push on it. could be in my problem i am applying pressure at an odd angle and not allowing it to come free easily? don't know, but i do know when i re-adjust, it works.

having said that i really like the compression lock. don't know if i'm the minority or not on that...but i prefer it to the nested liner lock(if that is the correct term?) on the military. both work well and i don't dislike the liner lock, but i find the compression lock not only unique but quite functional as i like that i do not have to put my fingers in the way of the blade when closing.

dsmegst · #13

**** it, I cut myself while cleaning the graphite off the Ti RIL on my ZT 0551. :o Thank goodness for new-skin.

Falco · #14

Brad S. wrote:You guys that a lubing that area are actually making it worse, not better. The best way to make it stick less is to get it as clean as possible. Take a q-tip dipped in acetone, or rubbing achocol, and clean the tang where the lock engages, and keep doing it till its spotlessly clean.

By lubing the lock your makeing the lock travel farther into its action, thusly its a tighter lockup, not a bad thing to one dregree, but it doesnt need it. And it makes it difficult to unlock...

Stop lubing your locks!

This is true of all locking mechanisims.

I should say, the reason I initially tried to oil the locking area was because this problem was already apparent as it was dry before hand. But I'll definitely give this a shot too, and try swabbing it clean with rubbing alchohol if the wax based lube ends up not doing the trick.

Thanks for the info!

SlideTechnik · #15

The lock is on the stiffer side on mine, but I never have trouble disengaging it with my pointer finger. The lock has a bit of a long pull, so just make sure you pull it all the way into the scale when you disengage.

phillipsted · #16

I've found that a touch of TufGlide really helps smooth the lock action on my Para2. It is a rust inhibitor as well as a dry lubricant. It largely evaporates within a day and leaves a dry finish behind. Works great on the metal-to-metal contacts on my Glock as well.

TedP