thanks, I'm gathering the courage needed to do my own sharpening. I still haven't the gear needed for sharpening, not to speak of the skill. So I want to stress that your considerrations regarding suitable sharpening gear are more than welcome. A setting with the rods in the different angles seems effective and rather simple to perform. Freehand on a benchstone seems to me an over-optimistic approach that does not keeps in mind that I'm really clumsy... Although... I feel tempted to gradually learn to do it because I believe that it offers most of the possibilities to "shape" your edge and produces a real impeccable result when done right. I relactantly look forward to the day that I freehand-sharpen my outstanding VG-10 folders, sooooooooo scared of doing "my babies" wrong...
Does the Spyderco Tri-Angle setting guarantee a nice sharpening job, in particular of non-Spydercos and serrated knifes. In other terms, is that system fit for general use, fit to act is principal sharpening system. If not, I would be thrilled with your suggestions. I'm eager to learn and experience (but somewhat reluctant because "experience" implies failure and mistakes, and that's something my exquisite knifes do not deserve). A lot of practise with cheap, replacable knives to master the freehand/benchstone technique seems unavoidable. Does this technique really delivers the best results when done properly? And is their any other manner of sharpening (my serrated blades are fit for sharpening on the Spyderco-Tri-Angle?) And is the Tri-Angle adequate and actually all I need, will it take care of a wide range of blades and edges? (yeah, I know, I'm a freehand-chicken).
Comments on different sharpening methods, their pro and con's, answers to questions like: "Do I need a diamond sharpening surface to preserve the keen edge of CPM440V-blades?"
I sharpening system may be time consuming to me, I prefer that if it comes with a substantial "margin of error" and the ability to correct myself.
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
Freehand/Benchstone sharpening unavoidable??
Koolstof,
You definitly need the Sharpmaker. It handles all jobs. From kitchen knives, to scissors, razors, chisels and of course every Spyderco there is.
And about keeping the edge on CPM-440V, you don't need the diamond stones.
You may only need the diamond stones to restore the bevel and edge on a completely neglected knife.
I'm doing fine with the brown and white stones on all sorts of knifes.
Just did a small kitchen knife 5 mintues ago. Restored the bevel to 30 degr, then sharpened and honed to 40 degr.
Ted
You definitly need the Sharpmaker. It handles all jobs. From kitchen knives, to scissors, razors, chisels and of course every Spyderco there is.
And about keeping the edge on CPM-440V, you don't need the diamond stones.
You may only need the diamond stones to restore the bevel and edge on a completely neglected knife.
I'm doing fine with the brown and white stones on all sorts of knifes.
Just did a small kitchen knife 5 mintues ago. Restored the bevel to 30 degr, then sharpened and honed to 40 degr.
Ted
Hi Koolstof.
The Sharpmaker is very easy to use. In fact the only skill you need is the ability to hold a knife vertically, that's it, no other skill neccessary <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
As for sharpening the super strong steels the best advice is not to let them get blunt. If you just give the knife a couple quick strokes on the Sharpmaker as soon as the edge starts going then it wont take much effort. Think of it as regular maintanence, a bit like lubricating the knife.
As for serrations, the Sharpmaker is very good at serrations, both for there own knives and other makes.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
The Sharpmaker is very easy to use. In fact the only skill you need is the ability to hold a knife vertically, that's it, no other skill neccessary <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
As for sharpening the super strong steels the best advice is not to let them get blunt. If you just give the knife a couple quick strokes on the Sharpmaker as soon as the edge starts going then it wont take much effort. Think of it as regular maintanence, a bit like lubricating the knife.
As for serrations, the Sharpmaker is very good at serrations, both for there own knives and other makes.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
I find myself to be tempted by that sharpmaker, it seems "a musthave".
Does freehand/benchstone sharpening, when done appropiatly holds any added advantages. And are those advantages just optional or are they worth the risk screwing up ;-)
Thank you, I highly appreciate any reaction
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
Does freehand/benchstone sharpening, when done appropiatly holds any added advantages. And are those advantages just optional or are they worth the risk screwing up ;-)
Thank you, I highly appreciate any reaction
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
I started off many years ago sharpening on bech stones, but not having any proper instruction or knowledge of different stones my results were barely OK at best.
I now get my knives FAR sharper with the Sharpmaker.
Since getting the sharpmaker I've learn't a lot about sharpening (viva la internet), and am often tempted to go back and see if I can get better at benchstone sharpening. Not because I think sharpening on bench stones is better, just that it is an old fashioned skill that I would like to be good at.
It is said by those that are good at sharpening with bench stones that it gives you a touch more control and allows you to make adjustments to individual blades.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
I now get my knives FAR sharper with the Sharpmaker.
Since getting the sharpmaker I've learn't a lot about sharpening (viva la internet), and am often tempted to go back and see if I can get better at benchstone sharpening. Not because I think sharpening on bench stones is better, just that it is an old fashioned skill that I would like to be good at.
It is said by those that are good at sharpening with bench stones that it gives you a touch more control and allows you to make adjustments to individual blades.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
i just cant see spending that much money on a knife sharpener. i use a 3.97 dollar ozark trails knife sharpener and get good results. shaving at least. dimond stones are easier and get a knife sharper with less effort because it takes of more metal. but you lose a lot of edge that way. benchstone sharpening is very theroputic. gives you something to do. go grab some crappy knives and practice like **** till ya get it. DONT GET DISCUREGED. its gonna be the most annoying thing in the world till you get it
-
Sword and Shield
- Member
- Posts: 2050
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: USA
I guess I'm the only fence-straddler here! <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
I like the 204. It works great on pretty much any knife, and gives excellent results if you pay attention and are careful.
That said, I also like freehand. In fact, to re-bevel a knife, I will often simply use a 204 stick as a stone and work that way.
The 204 is great, but sometimes a coarse stone is also called for. If you need a toothy edge, a cheap coarse stone will get the job done far faster than the 204.
A good coarse stone and the 204 is all the sharpening equipment you will ever need.
Buy some junk knives and a cheap stone from a hardware store and practice. Once you have the skill freehand, you are unstoppable once you combine that with the 204.
Never underestimate the impossible.
I like the 204. It works great on pretty much any knife, and gives excellent results if you pay attention and are careful.
That said, I also like freehand. In fact, to re-bevel a knife, I will often simply use a 204 stick as a stone and work that way.
The 204 is great, but sometimes a coarse stone is also called for. If you need a toothy edge, a cheap coarse stone will get the job done far faster than the 204.
A good coarse stone and the 204 is all the sharpening equipment you will ever need.
Buy some junk knives and a cheap stone from a hardware store and practice. Once you have the skill freehand, you are unstoppable once you combine that with the 204.
Never underestimate the impossible.
Freehand all the way. Once you figure out how to convex the edge, you'll go crazy! I have a Wegner Jr PE with a convexed edge and it's the cat's meow. All I use is a Norton coarse/fine (black/tan) to make the edge, then use a white 203 rod to perfect the egde. A couple of swipes on the strop (if I want an edge for push cuts) and I'm on my way. I never use the base of the 203, but use the stones as hones everyday. I only have one toothy knife, and the rod works great freehand on that too.
Convex edges are awesome, and only take a few weeks to figure out. Practice on a GOOD knife - that'll give you the feel for tougher steels. You can always regrind to a regular edge if you mess it up. If the knife's a user, knock yourself out.
It's all about pressure, feeling and rolling. Takes some effort but worth it.
Happy sharpening - RLR
Convex edges are awesome, and only take a few weeks to figure out. Practice on a GOOD knife - that'll give you the feel for tougher steels. You can always regrind to a regular edge if you mess it up. If the knife's a user, knock yourself out.
It's all about pressure, feeling and rolling. Takes some effort but worth it.
Happy sharpening - RLR
SpyderEdge approved for purchase...
I believe that will this system a try since I find out even some noteworthy appreciate it. I suppose it's worth my try and I am rather enthousiastic.
Thanks to all, I needed your insights
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
I believe that will this system a try since I find out even some noteworthy appreciate it. I suppose it's worth my try and I am rather enthousiastic.
Thanks to all, I needed your insights
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
SpyderEdge approved for purchase...
I believe that will this system a try since I find out even some noteworthy appreciate it. I suppose it's worth my try and I am rather enthousiastic.
Thanks to all, I needed your insights
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
I believe that will this system a try since I find out even some noteworthy appreciate it. I suppose it's worth my try and I am rather enthousiastic.
Thanks to all, I needed your insights
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
SpyderSystem seems to be thing for me.
I'm will buy this system shortly and try it out.
Actulally I'm looking forward to it.
I think that no collectioners should go without sharpening or at last do a proper effort.
By the way some reputated custom baldesmith even to find this system usefull. I can not wat <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
I'm will buy this system shortly and try it out.
Actulally I'm looking forward to it.
I think that no collectioners should go without sharpening or at last do a proper effort.
By the way some reputated custom baldesmith even to find this system usefull. I can not wat <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
I will buy a SpyderSharpener and I plan to use it... This seems, certain option to at least start of with and possibly stay a close partner to me and my knives.
Thank you.
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
Thank you.
-koolstof from Belgium: "a high-end blade will be worth its high purchase price in the end, if used and maintained properly, a good knife is irreplacable and beautifull, its simplicity is part of its effectiveness."-
-
vampyrewolf
- Member
- Posts: 7486
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Been sharpening for 13yrs(since I was 5), and the 204 is only the last in the last 2yrs.
I can sharpen pretty much anything on the benchstones(freehand), but the 204 is by far easier to learn. I carry a Spyderco Doublestuff stone with me at all times for quick touchups, till I can get at a benchstone. The 204 is just for redoing bevels, and touching up my Military(don't want to mess up the bevel on this one yet).
Freehand is a lot more fun to play with though. I managed to redo the edge on my <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> SS Dragonfly, purchase price $120 canadian, and now have a convex on that flat grind. I wan't afraid of doing it, in fact I wanted to... still took me weeks of work. My first really fun task was 5yrs ago(age 13) when I bought a Muela 4" skinner. Better steel than most of the pile back then, so it was harder to do. Only have the 1200grit stone in our house(since then I have bought: 200/300 combo, 500/800combo, 204 system, doublestuff, ceramic steel). That edge took me 2weeks of work, and it shaved after I was done. I didn't have to retouch the edge till this spring. and the edge matched the 30 bevel perfectly.
That said, the best advice for benchstones is go to garage sales, pick up a handful of cheapies, and play around. I started on cheapies(now they are cheap after 3 yrs of <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> ) when I got my first knife at age 5.
I just touched up my sister's kitchen cr<font color=black>a</font>p, and I'm going to have to take my benchstones to fix 2 of them(of 5). The edge is completely rolled and I didn't take my steel. steel, 200-500grit, 204, doublestuff, strop... and then watch the fingers fly.
This is getting to be a long post, so I'll just summerize... 204 = great!
freehand(aka benchstones) = lots of fun: field maintanence, touchups, regrinding... and no real fear of breaking a $3.00 stone compared to a $10.00 stone(after conversion to get a set of 2 for $20 up here).
BUT still get the 204 for the high quality steels such as 440V, and don't let it get dull. VG-10 can be recovered by freehand, 440V is either diamond stones, or send in for free sharpening.
*Our greatest triumph comes not from NOT falling down, but from getting back up every time.*
I can sharpen pretty much anything on the benchstones(freehand), but the 204 is by far easier to learn. I carry a Spyderco Doublestuff stone with me at all times for quick touchups, till I can get at a benchstone. The 204 is just for redoing bevels, and touching up my Military(don't want to mess up the bevel on this one yet).
Freehand is a lot more fun to play with though. I managed to redo the edge on my <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> SS Dragonfly, purchase price $120 canadian, and now have a convex on that flat grind. I wan't afraid of doing it, in fact I wanted to... still took me weeks of work. My first really fun task was 5yrs ago(age 13) when I bought a Muela 4" skinner. Better steel than most of the pile back then, so it was harder to do. Only have the 1200grit stone in our house(since then I have bought: 200/300 combo, 500/800combo, 204 system, doublestuff, ceramic steel). That edge took me 2weeks of work, and it shaved after I was done. I didn't have to retouch the edge till this spring. and the edge matched the 30 bevel perfectly.
That said, the best advice for benchstones is go to garage sales, pick up a handful of cheapies, and play around. I started on cheapies(now they are cheap after 3 yrs of <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> ) when I got my first knife at age 5.
I just touched up my sister's kitchen cr<font color=black>a</font>p, and I'm going to have to take my benchstones to fix 2 of them(of 5). The edge is completely rolled and I didn't take my steel. steel, 200-500grit, 204, doublestuff, strop... and then watch the fingers fly.
This is getting to be a long post, so I'll just summerize... 204 = great!
freehand(aka benchstones) = lots of fun: field maintanence, touchups, regrinding... and no real fear of breaking a $3.00 stone compared to a $10.00 stone(after conversion to get a set of 2 for $20 up here).
BUT still get the 204 for the high quality steels such as 440V, and don't let it get dull. VG-10 can be recovered by freehand, 440V is either diamond stones, or send in for free sharpening.
*Our greatest triumph comes not from NOT falling down, but from getting back up every time.*