My eyes aren't what they used to be, either. I either need three hands - one to hold a light or magnifier, one to hold the guide, and one to hold the knife - or two and a headband for the light/magnifier. I've tried holding up with a white wall, a ceiling light, and a white area on my computer monitor in the background for max contrast, but can't really tell anything about the edge. Maybe this works better with younger eyes than can see extremely well close up. Mine cannot.
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My eyes aren't what they used to be, either. I either need three hands - one to hold a light or magnifier, one to hold the guide, and one to hold the knife - or two and a headband for the light/magnifier. I've tried holding up with a white wall, a ceiling light, and a white area on my computer monitor in the background for max contrast, but can't really tell anything about the edge. Maybe this works better with younger eyes than can see extremely well close up. Mine cannot.
Here is how I hold the edge angle guide and a knife with one hand, then use my other for the magnifying glass (sorry about the quality, but my laptop's webcam is all I have):
Basically, grab the knife with your palm and three lower fingers while pinching the edge angle guide with your index finger and thumb. It's pretty secure; there isn't really a worry of it slipping or anything like that. First I grab the knife with the first hand, then put the edge angle guide in position with my other hand, pinch it with the first to free up the second, then use the magnifier with the second. (I'm not sure if this way will work for all sizes of knives, but so far so good.)
As for lighting, a desk lamp to light it up close from above seems to work fine for me.
I wrote a 3 page review on this little guy. Rather than bore anyone, here are the talking points.
On one hand we got exactly what we asked for and it does EXACTLY what it claims, and it is the ONLY device I know of for under a hundred dollars that accomplishes this task easily.
On the other hand, my silly whims now want angle measurement precision under a degree and this only gives 5 degree precision. And while it accomplishes a difficult task at a low cost, the task is not something that most people need.
I think those seeking measurements for the sake of trivial discussion will grow tired of the difficulty in using this device. OTOH, those who are very familiar with edge inspections/reprofiling will find it fairly simple to use (at least in my opinion).
I hesitate to predict how popular this may be. My hunch is a lot of people will want it, but few will use it beyond the first week of owning it. I could be TOTALLY wrong though.
I am thankful that Spyderco produces this sort of thing...I hope this (above) is of value to someone. This is my feedback/opinions nothing more.
I'm one who chimed in for this. I can say it is hard for me to get definitive measurement, even with my reading glasses on. Something I never took into account before. I'll try to use it again in the future and maybe a way will open up like it has for Phaust.
Charlie
Charlie
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
[CENTER]"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"[/CENTER]
The visual design of this is very nice. It would probably be less visually appealing if it could be stowed in a Sharpmaker box, but it would be more practical. A thought, for what it may or may not be worth. Thanks for bringing this device to "production" (if a couple of hundred units constitutes production). :spyder:
I have to agree with Deacon. I would really like to see the angle numbers on both sides as well as a small instruction guide, like comes with the sharpmaker. I also think that if the spyder-hole was slightly larger, I could fit my thumb inside to stabilize the guide a bit better.
dbcad wrote:I have a couple of old razors from the early 1900s, Ludwig baer, and a Wade and Butch. What would be the best way to clean them up and get them super sharp again, although they both are still sharp now.
I've just cleaned mine off and sharpened them. If the edge isn't chipped or really damaged this is all you really need. I'm doing a full restore with new scales on one when I get more time. Currently I have 4 straights I use so it gets put on the back burner...
Buying restored vintage straights is one of the best ways of getting into straight shaving without spending too much. You need a strop as well
I need help or tips on exactly how to use this edge guide. I got it yesterday and to me it seems to me I’m going to need three hands to use it. One for the knife, one for the guide and one for a magnifying glass. So far I use a magnifying glass to examine an edge on a knife but now I need a third hand. Will I need to use a clamp to hold the knife? That’s the only thing I can think of right now. I’ve only spent a few minutes with the guide so far. Maybe I’ll come up with something. I did think about one of those lights with a huge magnifying glass for close up work on a bench. That would free up a hand. Two things about that though. There is a point I can stop spending money on knife sharpening. Isn’t there??? I think I’m just about there. Plus, that light needs to be mounted and isn’t mobile unless they make a smaller one. I’ve been sharpening for 30+ years and never spent more than $100 total on sharpening tools. Until the last 6 years or so. I’ve been satisfied with the results all those years even though I couldn’t whittle a single hair. Whittling hair has never been a much needed task. It is the best sharpness test I’m aware of. I did that a couple of times. It was very satisfying though the first time I did it. I showed my son and he looked at me like I’m stupid (nothing unusual there). His reply was “how f***** sharp do you need?” He may be on to something.
Here is how I use it:
Very careful rotations of the gauge back and forth shows the tolerance (non-fit) on each setting. I work down to the two settings that seem above and below the bevel on the knife then guesstimate (interpolate with my eye) what the angle of the bevel is.
On this particular knife the bevels are low angle and extend about 1/4 inch up the blade making them good for illustrating how I use this gauge. I have assessed or otherwise measured the bevel several ways (other than the gauge). The gauge shows me that the bevel is between 5 and 10 and fails to fit both notches perfectly...further the miss-fit is about the same on both, so the interpretation is approximately 7.5 degrees. My other measurements put it closer to 8 degrees. Not bad for a 10 dollar gauge!
I see how you are using it and it's just like I thought it should be used. First glance at the picture was misleading to me because the reflection of your finger off the side of the blade looked like two fingers touching. I didn't know I was looking at the blade.
1. You have to have good eyesight & good light condition of the environment.
2. Angle guide gives you "approximate" estimate of your "back bevel".
3. It's a little bit challenging and takes more time to examine the difference between 5 degrees increments (e.g., 30 vs. 35).
4. Although the long cutout for occupying the very tip of the cutting edge is really nice, it's not impossible to hit the measuring slot causing edge bending if you're not careful.
█ Copycat :mad: █
█ A.K.A. Mr.Dissector █
█ "Think before You Cut" --- Sal Glesser. █
cr123 wrote:ack,
i remember seeing this guide mentioned in another thread. this guide and the Sharpmaker rods would make a pretty good portable sharpening kit in the field.
will there another run of these? they seem to have sold out quick.
Are you talking about the edge angle guide or the DMT aligner sharpening guide?
got mine last night. LOVE it. I love the size, the weight, and the design. A couple things I would like to say.
1) Needs numbers on both sides (as others have said)
2) Why did we go away from the classic round hole? I really think a properly sized round hole in place of the spyder would do wonders for positioning the guide to the steel. Either that, or possibly make the spyder bigger so I can stick my thumb in it.
3) I can totally see this as an improvised self defense weapon as well. (just saying :) )
Thanks for all the hard work Spydercrew, this came out excellent and didn't hurt the pockets.
I'm been using this for the past 3 days and have measured all my knives - I'm getting the hang of it. I'm having difficult estimating the angles on my convexed blades, but the ones with well-defined bevels are relatively easy to measure with this device. I've found that many of Spyderco's factory bevels are at 20degrees. Some of Benchmade's bevels, for instance on my Lum Dejavoo & the small Bone collector are also at 20degrees.
I place the opened knife blade up on the desk (knife balanced on the spine of the handle/blade. I have a lamp providing light as I need it. I use a 10X loupe. I put on the point-guard so I don't lose an eye, but I've taken the chain off the measuring guide of course. I estimate the bevel angles by switching from one to the other to get the best fit - trial & error but after doing it enough, confidence grows in the nearest correct angle.
Great device - I'd say to Sal, sell it to the masses, it works as well as could be expected. A darker imprint of the angles would be great as would having the imprints on both sides.
Got it today, I like it. I was able to figure out my FFG E4 that I thought was 22* is actually down about 15*, and my Busse AD is right about 30* at the belly and thinner closer down. Thanks Sal, good stuff.
Romans 8:31 ....If God is for us, who can be against us? - <><
The Spyderco hole is a rotating mechanical assembly of one part.
".....tractors don't have to look like Ferraris" -Sal
I got mine and tried it out. Found it a little difficult to use. Ended up looking like 1/2 to 1/3 of the bevel rest against the guide because of the slot. Its got the cool look factor but does not seem that effective. I'll take another look at it a few more times with a few more knives and see if my opinion chances.
