I'm currently shopping for my first road bike. I'll be test riding this 1990 Klein Quantum on Sunday and expect to buy it. Dura Ace hubs and a mix of Dura Ace and 600 components. Hand built here in Washington state, I think it's a very cool ride.
Buying first road bike
Buying first road bike
My current bike is a 1994 Cannondale Super V. I ride with a group of retirees three days a week from 20 to 50 miles each day.
I'm currently shopping for my first road bike. I'll be test riding this 1990 Klein Quantum on Sunday and expect to buy it. Dura Ace hubs and a mix of Dura Ace and 600 components. Hand built here in Washington state, I think it's a very cool ride.
I'm currently shopping for my first road bike. I'll be test riding this 1990 Klein Quantum on Sunday and expect to buy it. Dura Ace hubs and a mix of Dura Ace and 600 components. Hand built here in Washington state, I think it's a very cool ride.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
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Monkeywrangler
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What frame size are you looking for? How much $$ are you willing to spend? I'm asking because DH has been thinking of selling his CF Trek/Lemond with Campy on it.
Not Forgotten:
LCpl. John Dewey Killen III
MSgt. Timothy Roy Bodden
Don't the sun look angry through the trees?
Don't the trees look like crucified thieves?
LCpl. John Dewey Killen III
MSgt. Timothy Roy Bodden
Don't the sun look angry through the trees?
Don't the trees look like crucified thieves?
I'm 6' 4" but only have a 32" inseam. I'm targeting 60cm, but looking at anything between 59 and 63cm. The Klein is a 59cm. The seller is the original owner and also has a 32" inseam.Monkeywrangler wrote:What frame size are you looking for? How much $$ are you willing to spend? I'm asking because DH has been thinking of selling his CF Trek/Lemond with Campy on it.
Theoretically I'd go up to $1000 for the right bike. The Klein is $600.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
You may not like this answer...
That bike was built 20 years ago for a rider that valued speed over comfort. A bike like this would rarely get my nod for a rider hoping to log a lot of miles with typical retirees. Do you ride 6 months only out of the year? If so that is 1500+ miles a year.
I also saw more than a few early 90s model aluminum frames crack. If you decide to buy it, be sure to have it checked by a pro first. While you are there, ask for an estimate on drive train overhaul and when he/she expects this will need one.
As an avid road bike racer, even I would consider those bikes to be very harsh riding.
That bike was built 20 years ago for a rider that valued speed over comfort. A bike like this would rarely get my nod for a rider hoping to log a lot of miles with typical retirees. Do you ride 6 months only out of the year? If so that is 1500+ miles a year.
I also saw more than a few early 90s model aluminum frames crack. If you decide to buy it, be sure to have it checked by a pro first. While you are there, ask for an estimate on drive train overhaul and when he/she expects this will need one.
As an avid road bike racer, even I would consider those bikes to be very harsh riding.
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
I appreciate the input. Since I'm new to this there will be many things I learn through experience. The group I'm with rides all 12 months. We don't turn back when it rains, but few of us will start a ride if it is already raining. I'm getting tired of them pulling away from me while I'm spinning away in my top gear.
I know conventional wisdom favors almost anything else over an all aluminum frame for a road bike. However, these other alternatives are also meant for 150 lb riders. When I was a skinny kid in high school I bottomed out at 195. I expect that I probably won't be below 235 again. That's why, rightly or wrongly, I'm looking at stiffer frames. Does that rationale make sense to you?
I know conventional wisdom favors almost anything else over an all aluminum frame for a road bike. However, these other alternatives are also meant for 150 lb riders. When I was a skinny kid in high school I bottomed out at 195. I expect that I probably won't be below 235 again. That's why, rightly or wrongly, I'm looking at stiffer frames. Does that rationale make sense to you?
unit wrote:You may not like this answer...
That bike was built 20 years ago for a rider that valued speed over comfort. A bike like this would rarely get my nod for a rider hoping to log a lot of miles with typical retirees. Do you ride 6 months only out of the year? If so that is 1500+ miles a year.
I also saw more than a few early 90s model aluminum frames crack. If you decide to buy it, be sure to have it checked by a pro first. While you are there, ask for an estimate on drive train overhaul and when he/she expects this will need one.
As an avid road bike racer, even I would consider those bikes to be very harsh riding.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
I don't know a whole lot about Road Bikes, but I know a little something about frame designs and material used in frames 
. As far as aluminum frames cracking, it depends on few things. High stress areas and material used. The high stress area are going to be at the head tube/steering tube or where the top tube and down tube meet and welded into the head tube. The others would be at the seat stays and bottom bracket area. These are are high stress/fatigue areas due to torque when pedalling and cornering at high speeds when body weight shifts.
As for material ...in the 90s I believe the desired material to be used in most road bikes was 6061-T6 aluminum. Which is a very durable aluminum, but there was another aluminum that came out then as well and was a bit stronger ...7005 aluminum.
Things to look for on the Klein ... check the type of aluminum and check the high fatigue areas I mentioned above ...mostly the welds. If it has thick and clean welds chances are it will last quite a while for you.
Back to fatigue. The reason the majority of road bikes and Mtn Bikes are made of aluminum and titanium, is because it is so rigid ...there is very little flex in the frame. This can be a good thing and a bad thing. Good in the fact that less stress will equal speed and maintaining that speed without energy being exerted into different different areas of a frame and losing speed. Bad in that, because there is no flex it cause stress cracks in those fatigue areas eventually leading to have to buy a new frame every few years.
One of the frames to look into, is a frame that is made of Cr-Mo (Chromoly Tubing). A Cr-Mo frame has flex, but in a way that allows the high stress areas to have less fatigue, because depending on the frame design/angles the torque is maintained in the bottom bracket so speed is maintained. That's an option to look into, but I'm not real sure if they make a road bike with Cr-Mo these days. I will say this ...Cr-Mo has come a long way as is much stronger than aluminum and in some instances stronger than Titanium depending on the heat treatment used. Hope I haven't confused you to much :o and Hope this helps a bit . Take Very Good Care, Be Safe Always, and Good Luck .
God Bless :)
-raven-
. As far as aluminum frames cracking, it depends on few things. High stress areas and material used. The high stress area are going to be at the head tube/steering tube or where the top tube and down tube meet and welded into the head tube. The others would be at the seat stays and bottom bracket area. These are are high stress/fatigue areas due to torque when pedalling and cornering at high speeds when body weight shifts.As for material ...in the 90s I believe the desired material to be used in most road bikes was 6061-T6 aluminum. Which is a very durable aluminum, but there was another aluminum that came out then as well and was a bit stronger ...7005 aluminum.
Things to look for on the Klein ... check the type of aluminum and check the high fatigue areas I mentioned above ...mostly the welds. If it has thick and clean welds chances are it will last quite a while for you.
Back to fatigue. The reason the majority of road bikes and Mtn Bikes are made of aluminum and titanium, is because it is so rigid ...there is very little flex in the frame. This can be a good thing and a bad thing. Good in the fact that less stress will equal speed and maintaining that speed without energy being exerted into different different areas of a frame and losing speed. Bad in that, because there is no flex it cause stress cracks in those fatigue areas eventually leading to have to buy a new frame every few years.
One of the frames to look into, is a frame that is made of Cr-Mo (Chromoly Tubing). A Cr-Mo frame has flex, but in a way that allows the high stress areas to have less fatigue, because depending on the frame design/angles the torque is maintained in the bottom bracket so speed is maintained. That's an option to look into, but I'm not real sure if they make a road bike with Cr-Mo these days. I will say this ...Cr-Mo has come a long way as is much stronger than aluminum and in some instances stronger than Titanium depending on the heat treatment used. Hope I haven't confused you to much :o and Hope this helps a bit
. Take Very Good Care, Be Safe Always, and Good Luck .God Bless :)
-raven-
ISAIAH 40:31 But those who wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; They will mount up on wings like eagles, They shall run and not be weary, They shall walk and not faint.
No-one can choose your mountain or tell you when to climb... It's yours alone to challenge at your own pace and time.
No-one can choose your mountain or tell you when to climb... It's yours alone to challenge at your own pace and time.
OK so you are more like 3000 to 5000 miles yearly! That is fantastic. A comfortable bike that is well suited to your needs is even more important though.Sequimite wrote:I appreciate the input. Since I'm new to this there will be many things I learn through experience. The group I'm with rides all 12 months. We don't turn back when it rains, but few of us will start a ride if it is already raining. I'm getting tired of them pulling away from me while I'm spinning away in my top gear.
I know conventional wisdom favors almost anything else over an all aluminum frame for a road bike. However, these other alternatives are also meant for 150 lb riders. When I was a skinny kid in high school I bottomed out at 195. I expect that I probably won't be below 235 again. That's why, rightly or wrongly, I'm looking at stiffer frames. Does that rationale make sense to you?
First off. A stiff bike may be strong...or brittle. Think about knives and heat treat. A high hardness does not mean a knife won't fracture like glass if stressed (which also is pretty stiff, BTW).
Modern bikes will likely last longer, be lighter, ride with better comfort, and hold up to more stress. That said, I would not recommend anything that gives any nod (no matter how slight) to racing for what you describe.
A modern offering (pick the brand you like most...honestly all are going to have very minuscule differences at this price point...and marketing hype is just that). If you buy new, I would suggest Shimano 105 group (assuming you like Shimano). That level is fantastic and the only compromises you make are in weight (which BTW if anyone starts comparing weights, walk away, because the bike weight belongs WAY down the priority list for a for a first time buyer).
Show me a guy that thinks he can feel the difference between a 22 pound bike and a 20 pound bike from the cockpit and I will bet you he also "measure" edge grinds to within 0.5 degree by just looking at it
If you are getting dropped by roadies while on your MTB, perhaps you should consider a new (road) cassette for your MTB if it otherwise suits your wants and needs. Slicks and gears on a good MTB are perfect for a lot of heavier riders...it will save you a pile of cash too. A second rear wheel will allow you to have a bike that serves double duty by swapping a wheel in minutes.
Further, at north of 220 pounds, wider tires are going to be way more durable and comfortable for you than the widest tire any race frame could hope to fit. You say you ride in the rain? Yet another vote for bigger tires that are going to also be thicker and resist punctures by water-lubricated shards in the road.
Plus you will always be the coolest dude around for hanging with roadies on a MTB. That deserve props from anyone in the know!
The more I think about this, the more I want to push you toward taller gears for your existing bike. If and when you switch to those fragile road tires, you will learn a whole new style of riding (you have to constantly look out for anything that will cause a puncture...and still get punctures in spite of your efforts).
I love road riding....love it. If you are certain you want drop bars and the whole road experience, I suggest finding something that will allow you to put on a 700-34 tire or larger. Wider is better unless you are pushing speeds north of 22 MPH where wind resistance starts to favor narrower tires.
I would be happy to help any way I can if you develop any questions and want my opinion...I have lots!
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Bought the bike. Rode it 28 miles Monday and 23 today. As was stated, the stiff frame brings you every nuance of the road surface. However, I feel fine and have a lot of energy left at the end of the ride, plus IMO it's gorgeous. Here's a better picture:
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
Oderint Dum Metuant - Let them hate, so long as they fear.
:spyder:'s - I have sincerely now lost count.
http://www.spydiewiki.com/
http://spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/glossary.php
:spyder:'s - I have sincerely now lost count.
http://www.spydiewiki.com/
http://spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/glossary.php
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ssmtbracer
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- Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:02 pm
- Location: USA
Aluminum is very rigid however Ti is strong but it flexes like steel.raven wrote:I don't know a whole lot about Road Bikes, but I know a little something about frame designs and material used in frames
As for material ...in the 90s I believe the desired material to be used in most road bikes was 6061-T6 aluminum. Which is a very durable aluminum, but there was another aluminum that came out then as well and was a bit stronger ...7005 aluminum.
Things to look for on the Klein ... check the type of aluminum and check the high fatigue areas I mentioned above ...mostly the welds. If it has thick and clean welds chances are it will last quite a while for you.
Back to fatigue. The reason the majority of road bikes and Mtn Bikes are made of aluminum and titanium, is because it is so rigid ...there is very little flex in the frame. This can be a good thing and a bad thing. Good in the fact that less stress will equal speed and maintaining that speed without energy being exerted into different different areas of a frame and losing speed. Bad in that, because there is no flex it cause stress cracks in those fatigue areas eventually leading to have to buy a new frame every few years.
One of the frames to look into, is a frame that is made of Cr-Mo (Chromoly Tubing). A Cr-Mo frame has flex, but in a way that allows the high stress areas to have less fatigue, because depending on the frame design/angles the torque is maintained in the bottom bracket so speed is maintained. That's an option to look into, but I'm not real sure if they make a road bike with Cr-Mo these days. I will say this ...Cr-Mo has come a long way as is much stronger than aluminum and in some instances stronger than Titanium depending on the heat treatment used. Hope I haven't confused you to much :o and Hope this helps a bit
God Bless :)
-raven-
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ssmtbracer
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- Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:02 pm
- Location: USA
Klein is a good bike many people don't know this but Gary Klein is the reason oversized tubes.Sequimite wrote:Bought the bike. Rode it 28 miles Monday and 23 today. As was stated, the stiff frame brings you every nuance of the road surface. However, I feel fine and have a lot of energy left at the end of the ride, plus IMO it's gorgeous. Here's a better picture:
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Scottie3000
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Im glad you are happy with it. You are the most important person to be happy with that purchase. I would have shyed away from it because it is a 20 yr old frame and aluminum has a finite lifespan, but it looks clean and probably has tons of life left in it. Probably sat unused in someones garage for 18 years.
Even with a very stiff frame, the right saddle can make all the difference. I prefer WTB saddles myself. That is one place never to cheap out.
Even with a very stiff frame, the right saddle can make all the difference. I prefer WTB saddles myself. That is one place never to cheap out.
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ssmtbracer
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defenestrate
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I have an old 1020 steel Nishiki that I am looking to refurbish, put some more combo tread tires on and to be able to rider around town/maybe on trails (it's light and strong) - it seems a little small but I don't mind that - the power to weight ratio is pretty cool on a bike so light and small, and it DOES adjust up to my body size okay I think.
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Happy, Happy, Happy! Peel, Peel, Peel!
Happy, Happy, Happy! Peel, Peel, Peel!
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djinnzfree
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- Location: East-Side Montreal, Québec, Canada
Should put a nice pedal pair... clip-on style with shoes. Be sure to get the right positionning for locking system on shoes.
For a road bike you should before buying sit on a mesurement bike for ergonomic positionning... seat position, lenght of cranck, widht handlebar, reach for stem etc etc...
It's a confort question...
BTW nice looking bike! let's rideeeeeeee!
wear an helmet an watchout crazy car driver.
For a road bike you should before buying sit on a mesurement bike for ergonomic positionning... seat position, lenght of cranck, widht handlebar, reach for stem etc etc...
It's a confort question...
BTW nice looking bike! let's rideeeeeeee!
wear an helmet an watchout crazy car driver.
I ♥ blade, kite, motorcycle and _ _ X!
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Bluntrauma
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I don't know much about bikes but that certainly is a good looking one. It really needs a Jester on it to finish off the matching look! :)
Sometimes you gotta kick at the darkness until it bleeds daylight.
AKA: Liveitloud on Blade Forums, USN, EDC, Benchmade forums and basically everywhere but here.
liveit_loud on Ebay.
AKA: Liveitloud on Blade Forums, USN, EDC, Benchmade forums and basically everywhere but here.
liveit_loud on Ebay.