I now own my first S30V and VG10 blades, having previous experience with 420/440 steels. I want to carry IWB, but I'm concerned about the summer humidity and such.
Is there anything special I have to do to keep these blades from rusting up, other than rinsing once a week or so and giving them a light coat of mineral oil? I'm used to knives that one can just throw in the dishwasher...
I thank you for your advice and patience! I'm trying to educate myself on various steels.
Help a noob re: steel care
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CanisMajor
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I agree with MCM, avoid the dishwasher.
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"Your body may be gone, I'm gonna carry you in.
In my head, in my heart, in my soul.
And maybe we'll get lucky and we'll both live again.
Well I don't know. I don't know. I don't know. Don't think so."
- Modest Mouse "Ocean Breathes Salty"
To echo the previous posters, never put a quality blade in the dishwasher.
I regularly carry one of my Militaries (both in CPM S30V) IWB. I suggest the following:
-Take a few seconds at the end of each day to wipe down the blade with a clean rag or cloth.
-Once or twice a week, wipe the blade down with oil (I use 3 in 1, mineral oil would also work), make sure to get plenty of oil on the cutting edge, let the blade sit for a few hours, wipe off the extra oil.
Both of the steels you mentioned have excellent corrosion resistance, especially V gold 10. As long as you maintain them, IWB is nothing to be concerned about.
I regularly carry one of my Militaries (both in CPM S30V) IWB. I suggest the following:
-Take a few seconds at the end of each day to wipe down the blade with a clean rag or cloth.
-Once or twice a week, wipe the blade down with oil (I use 3 in 1, mineral oil would also work), make sure to get plenty of oil on the cutting edge, let the blade sit for a few hours, wipe off the extra oil.
Both of the steels you mentioned have excellent corrosion resistance, especially V gold 10. As long as you maintain them, IWB is nothing to be concerned about.
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ProfessorMartini
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Just a small addition - if you use the knives for food preparation you might like to use an edible oil like Camellia Oil instead - the Japanese use it on their high-carbon kitchen knives :)
My spydies: Squeak, Tenacious, Terzuola, D'Allara, UKPK CF peel-ply pre-production, UKPK CF smooth pre-production, UKPK G10 orange leaf-blade, UKPK FRN grey drop-point, UKPK FRN maroon leaf-blade, Bug ... all PE blades :)
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chuck_roxas45
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I use olive oil on mine. Cholesterol free as a bonus! :D
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defenestrate
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The Mastiff
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I've gone to just about all silicone for my blades. For storage of my carbon and alloy steels I use the clear liquid pure silicone from A.G.Russell. A little bit really goes a long way.
For daily, routine uses on all my non kitchen knives I use Outers, Winchester, or Hoppes silicone wipe cloths from the gun cleaning section of any box store. At About $2.99 per wipe, I average a month or so per if the knives are fairly clean, and I reseal the wipes after use to keep them from drying fast. I can even recharge the wipes with the liquid silicone from the bottle.
I like it better than all the lubes and oil based products I've been using for decades.
The pivots get a teflon lube, dry of course so as not to hold grit.
The key is always get the corrosives off before applying whatever product you chose.
Dishwashers are no good. The detergents have chlorine based stuff in it which is not real good for real cutlery steels, though the stuff in stainless silverware seems to do just fine.
The Salt blades might do OK, but I sure wouldn't do that to my nice , high carbon cutlery steels.
I use 1095 "old Hickory" knives for food prep and allowed a controlled patina to develop on them. Hand wash and dry is good enough for them.
Good luck. Joe
For daily, routine uses on all my non kitchen knives I use Outers, Winchester, or Hoppes silicone wipe cloths from the gun cleaning section of any box store. At About $2.99 per wipe, I average a month or so per if the knives are fairly clean, and I reseal the wipes after use to keep them from drying fast. I can even recharge the wipes with the liquid silicone from the bottle.
I like it better than all the lubes and oil based products I've been using for decades.
The pivots get a teflon lube, dry of course so as not to hold grit.
The key is always get the corrosives off before applying whatever product you chose.
Dishwashers are no good. The detergents have chlorine based stuff in it which is not real good for real cutlery steels, though the stuff in stainless silverware seems to do just fine.
The Salt blades might do OK, but I sure wouldn't do that to my nice , high carbon cutlery steels.
I use 1095 "old Hickory" knives for food prep and allowed a controlled patina to develop on them. Hand wash and dry is good enough for them.
Good luck. Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
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SkullBouncer
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Agreement for the most part, particular '+' to MASTIFF --
As a reiteration from an associated thread I posted in, I'll chime in here as well on my 'glory find' stalwart for gun/blade care within my experience spanning decades and a relatively broad spectrum of elemental metals and alloys --
-- Phipps Products Corp. Military Issue (old-school) Naptha/Silicone based Rifle Bore Cleaner.
A singular product of treatment/dual purpose agent which can be easily found (at least in my present and prior locales) at Military Surplus commercial outlets, at a paltry cost of around $4.00 (often even far less from bulk lots) for an 8 fl.oz. can; you might have best luck in googling the product brand for starters.
Removes light surface staining including copper, lead and nitro fouling primarily via the Naptha component, which following adequate wipe down of suspended 'crud' in solution is itself then relatively quick and clean evaporating, BUT LEAVES BEHIND THE ALL IMPORTANT SECONDARY COMPONENT, In this product's case, a Remarkably Enduring Thin Protective Coating of non-toxic SILICONE POLYMER. Old lots still remain as surplus with decades of sealed optimal shelf-life.
I used to use the run of the mill conventional solvents of which a number of brands possess EXCESSIVELY corrosive properties and will cause long-term permanent rifling damage to a degree that years back surprised the **** out of me upon first learning of the PHIPPS RBC benefits against more conventional and commercially popular nitro solvents and oxide dissolvents commonly overused quite unwittingly, and to very unnecessary levels exceedingly both in frequency and as improper/unaddressed residual retention superficially
especially in between components such as sears, pivots, blade locks and so on... Unlike this product, I'd relatively need to oil the **** out of contact surfaces and component permeation to assure arrested residual corrosion.
My $0.02...
I'd mentioned some very common brands of 'bad stuff' I will no longer use at all on any of my weaponry, rather sticking with the aforementioned Phipps Prod. Corp '70's era (believe it or not...) Naptha/Silicone one-step dual purpose agent -- look it up and/or call around, I'm confident in that you'd potentially be extremely pleased with this particular formulation!
Best of Fortunes;
/ SB
As a reiteration from an associated thread I posted in, I'll chime in here as well on my 'glory find' stalwart for gun/blade care within my experience spanning decades and a relatively broad spectrum of elemental metals and alloys --
-- Phipps Products Corp. Military Issue (old-school) Naptha/Silicone based Rifle Bore Cleaner.
A singular product of treatment/dual purpose agent which can be easily found (at least in my present and prior locales) at Military Surplus commercial outlets, at a paltry cost of around $4.00 (often even far less from bulk lots) for an 8 fl.oz. can; you might have best luck in googling the product brand for starters.
Removes light surface staining including copper, lead and nitro fouling primarily via the Naptha component, which following adequate wipe down of suspended 'crud' in solution is itself then relatively quick and clean evaporating, BUT LEAVES BEHIND THE ALL IMPORTANT SECONDARY COMPONENT, In this product's case, a Remarkably Enduring Thin Protective Coating of non-toxic SILICONE POLYMER. Old lots still remain as surplus with decades of sealed optimal shelf-life.
I used to use the run of the mill conventional solvents of which a number of brands possess EXCESSIVELY corrosive properties and will cause long-term permanent rifling damage to a degree that years back surprised the **** out of me upon first learning of the PHIPPS RBC benefits against more conventional and commercially popular nitro solvents and oxide dissolvents commonly overused quite unwittingly, and to very unnecessary levels exceedingly both in frequency and as improper/unaddressed residual retention superficially
especially in between components such as sears, pivots, blade locks and so on... Unlike this product, I'd relatively need to oil the **** out of contact surfaces and component permeation to assure arrested residual corrosion.
My $0.02...
I'd mentioned some very common brands of 'bad stuff' I will no longer use at all on any of my weaponry, rather sticking with the aforementioned Phipps Prod. Corp '70's era (believe it or not...) Naptha/Silicone one-step dual purpose agent -- look it up and/or call around, I'm confident in that you'd potentially be extremely pleased with this particular formulation!
Best of Fortunes;
/ SB
Not sure you need to do anything special... I've had an Endura (G-2 stainless) for 12+ years (6 of which in heavy EDC use during the summers), and the only cleaning it has seen is a strop on my jeans when I get it wet or something on it. Maybe soap and water if something sticky. And it looks great still.
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ChapmanPreferred
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ProfessorMartini
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