Bushcraft UK - 2nds "heads-up"

skunk_2 · #81

just placed my order! loooove this knife and couldnt turn up that deal! a few cracks dont bother me too much, 'cause im gonna use as intended!

ChapmanPreferred · #82

Sequimite wrote:I'm going with the epoxy so I can color it. I should be able to mix one or more colors with oil paints to combine with the thinned epoxy.

Please post pics when you have completed your repair.

Hector Castro · #83

Sequimite wrote:I'm going with the epoxy so I can color it. I should be able to mix one or more colors with oil paints to combine with the thinned epoxy.

Black would look great mixed with the epoxy! it would mimic the spalted lines, and you would never notice the cracks on the handle.

I can't wait to see what my handle does over the next week! My first handle has acclimated well. IT shows no signs of cracking and it has stabilized to it's original size. You cant catch a finger nail on the tang any longer.

Sequimite · #84

Hector Castro wrote:Black would look great mixed with the epoxy! it would mimic the spalted lines, and you would never notice the cracks on the handle.

If I was doing it on my own I'd probably just mix some graphite in. Since my wife and son are artists, I'll have them decide on the colors and mix them up.

cougar337 · #85

I got my Bushcraft in today and it really is so beautiful! There is a crack on one of the sides and the 2nd's notch on the blade and I am quite happy with it for $90! I will wait to hear how others fill their cracks before I attempt it with mine

Hillbillenigma · #86

Mine should arrive in a couple of days. Thanks to Yab for the pics. Inwardly I hope mine has less gaps but if not I won't complain.

I tink I am going to use a product called Zap-a-Gap. Basically a thin super glue but I am going to try and dye it somehow, maybe with the graphite as someone mentioned or a drop of M-nu (an old Marine Corp black compound)...

I will let mine acclimate first.

Look forward to getting started.

MCM · #87

If I need to fill cracks, Black epoxy- or a Black Bondo mix will do. :D (Should know real soon)
Then there is always JB Weld.
Let's all just hope for the best.
Also, letting it sit out for a couple weeks make's sense as well.
At 1st, I plan to do nothing and just see what happens. How easy is that?

MCM · #88

Cougar, Nice Wood! :p
No really!
Cant wait to see what mine is like! :confused:
But then thats 1/2 the fun.........

aj1985 · #89

Sure are selling well. 268 to go. :)

aj

Hector Castro · #90

Hillbillenigma wrote:Mine should arrive in a couple of days. Thanks to Yab for the pics. Inwardly I hope mine has less gaps but if not I won't complain.

I tink I am going to use a product called Zap-a-Gap. Basically a thin super glue but I am going to try and dye it somehow, maybe with the graphite as someone mentioned or a drop of M-nu (an old Marine Corp black compound)...

I will let mine acclimate first.

Look forward to getting started.

Please dont try to mix anything with CA. It will cause it to harden faster. If you want it in black, you can buy a CA that is already black and fortified with a natural rubber compound. This CA is designed for glueing very hard material (metals) The Rubber gives it the ability to absorb shock loads. CA makes a strong bond, but it gets brittle by itself. This is the reason for the black CA.
CA is available in many viscocities at your local hobby shop. I build RC planes in my spare time, and i have seen at least 6 different types available.

yablanowitz · #91

Hector Castro wrote:Please dont try to mix anything with CA. It will cause it to harden faster. If you want it in black, you can buy a CA that is already black and fortified with a natural rubber compound. This CA is designed for glueing very hard material (metals) The Rubber gives it the ability to absorb shock loads. CA makes a strong bond, but it gets brittle by itself. This is the reason for the black CA.
CA is available in many viscocities at your local hobby shop. I build RC planes in my spare time, and i have seen at least 6 different types available.

I can tell you're from the big city. My "local hobby shop" is 80 miles away.

SteelDragon · #92

yablanowitz wrote:I can tell you're from the big city. My "local hobby shop" is 80 miles away.

Same here, however I do have a full roll of duct tape. Man what a shame, what are the chances that more cracks will appear after filling any current ones.

Mr.Sparkitle · #93

Mine came in this afternoon. No visible cracks as of yet but I am going to give it a few days at sea level and see how it does. Any one have any idea on how to get the oil residue off the blade? I'll take some pictures tomorrow and get them up.

JNewell · #94

yablanowitz wrote:True enough, but I've never had much luck with or faith in CA glues. I've had much, much better results with epoxies over the years.

You're the boss :D but you're really not trying to bond anything - just fill cracks. CA will work fine for this.

JNewell · #95

Sequimite wrote:I'm going with the epoxy so I can color it. I should be able to mix one or more colors with oil paints to combine with the thinned epoxy.

One of the side-linked threads at BB speaks about sanding while the CA has not yet cured to build up some sawdust in the CA as a coloring agent. I haven't tried that with CA, but I've done it with a lot of wood finish products with excellent results, so it could work well here too (as reported at BB).

freeman7 · #96

With regard to sanding over CA, I seem to remember Herb Derr telling me to do that on a small crack in a section of snakewood that appeared in one of his knives I own. I decided not to mess with it. But I think that was his suggestion IIRC.

Sequimite · #97

Mr.Sparkitle wrote:Mine came in this afternoon. No visible cracks as of yet but I am going to give it a few days at sea level and see how it does. Any one have any idea on how to get the oil residue off the blade? I'll take some pictures tomorrow and get them up.

Sal said they use acetone to remove the linseed oil.

dsmegst · #98

I think I got rather lucky with my knife. The cracks start from the lanyard hole and goes straight back on both sides of the knife. Otherwise, this really is a great looking knife. Thanks to everyone for the good advice so far on what to do for a fix.

So I guess I'll leave it be for a couple days in the house and pray that nothing else cracks. Then superglue to the rescue. :)

Hector Castro · #99

Great news this A.M.! my Bushcraft 2nd sat out all night on the desk, and half of the cracks are gone! The wood magically expanded and some of the cracks went away. If this wood was originaly sealed somewhere around sea level in a humid environment, then taken to Golden Colorado (dry, high altitude) this would definetily cause it to shrink and crack!

dsmegst · #100

Given the poor stabilization of the wood scales, how much effect will seasonal changes have? I don't like the idea of constantly shrinking and expanding handles.