My Root Tootin Arse Bootin Rock Salt

[sixheads]

WOW. finnaly got it after the wait the saving and the trading (traded to caly jrs and cash) i got it .

IT IS AWSOME

Thank you all for the advice on my first big fixed blade . I was looking at it or one of the Hossom line and on from opinions and reviews you guys gave me i went with the Rock salt.

Thank you all.


Anyone know were i can get a custom leather sheath for it?

Sixheads

[Bill1170]

There are several folks over at Blade Forums who make sheaths of leather on a custom basis. Check it out. StitchAwl is the only name that comes to mind.

Bill

[vampyrewolf]

First 2 that come to mind are

http://www.vessleatherworks.com/ ("Vess" Vadim Grynko) for a Canadian source

http://www.liftersleather.com/ ("Lifter" Dave) for an American source

[sixheads]

Hi ,

I was reading that the spyder hole on top of the blade is for a second lanyard? i dont understand , why? and does anyone have a pick?

Thank you.

[yablanowitz]

It is there partly as a Spyderco trademark. You can also run a short loop of cord through it for a forward lanyard. It can be held several different ways. Give me a few minutes to tie one on my Temp II and I can shoot some pix.

[yablanowitz]

Okay, quick and dirty. I used a short loop, hooked my little finger through the loop and ran the cord over the back of my hand.







It locks the knife solidly to your hand and prevents it from slipping forward and out of your hand when chopping or making pull cuts.

[sixheads]

Thank you now i get it . Cool.

One more question , Does anyone know if the screws in the handel have lock tight on them ? If not i will remove them and add my own.

Thanks again for the pics.

Sixheads

[Tribune]

I also recently picked up the Rock Salt and I agree that it's a great knife. However Sixheads wanting a leather sheath for the Rock Salt is like a punch in the gut for me.
The Boltaren sheath and G-clip it comes with, allows you to carry the knife inside the waistband or in a front pocket anywhere you want to go! Clothing as light as an untucked T-shirt completely hides the knife.
Why would someone throw away that possibility by sticking the knife in a Daniel Boone leather sheath which is suitable for bush wear only?
Oh well ,none of my business [which of course never keeps me from mouthing off]

[Blerv]

Thank you now i get it . Cool.

One more question , Does anyone know if the screws in the handel have lock tight on them ? If not i will remove them and add my own.

Thanks again for the pics.

Sixheads

The Spyderco hole is a trademark. It's on all of their current models for brand recognition whether it serves functional purpose or not. For 90% of the people it probably doesnt do anything but it also doesn't impact the integrity of the blade. I could see using it to help fasten a blade on the end of a stick for a make-shift spear. I hope to never been in that situation :)

Loctite or not you can remove the screws. Loctite blue ramps up the torque required to break the seal but it is entirely possible to unscrew something with it on it. Loctite Red is even higher in torque/break rating and in most cases you have to hit the steel with a torch to have a chance. The green version is a thinner version for sealing small screws once they are tightened down as it's very low viscosity and can fit in the threads around where the screw is seated. I would assume any threadlocker Spyderco would use would be lower strength or they would just use rivets and save the money.

As for the FRN handles you could probably remove them and configure your own but they are pretty comfy and ergonomic while offering great wet traction. I definitely wouldn't throw them away :)

[sixheads]

Tribune,

Cool man opinions are what fourms are for. I like the sheath don get mr wrong but it is a little rattaly and the clicking noise it makes when the knife is removed from the sheath is not disrable to me ( it might alreat the deer i am about to jump out of a tree branch and cut its throat)

Blerv ,

Thank you for the lock tite lesson , I am a printing press technition and am quit familliar with the different colours and uses of lock tite. I was just wondering if any had been applied at the factoryor not ? If not i would remove the screws and add my own. FRN in is my farvorite handel material and i wouldnt even consider removeing those handels. FRN in that bi derectinal pattern is my fav.

Thanks for the in put so far , So does anyone know did they put any lock tight on the screws in the handel at the factory?

Sixheads

[Blerv]

Ahh cool. Some custom bolts/screws? That would look great!

[sixheads]

I was wondering if the screws that are in the handel from the factory have lock tight on them ? Because they are small and if one falls out ur humped and i would imagine there hard to replace. I want the original factory knife as is i just want to add locktight to the handel screws if there isnt any already.

I will email spyderco and ask them.

Thanks for the imput.

Sixheads

[Ed Schempp]

As the Rock Salt is produced in Japan I can't speak for the thread locker used in its construction.

Taking a break from the prototype table at SHOT I wander around and attempt to stay aware of some of the evolving mfg. processes available to the industry. A thread retention material and demo caught my attention.

I believe that Spyderco uses this contractor. I'm not a Spyderco employee and I'm not aware of all of their mfg. processes but we are pretty much on the same page.

This material is different from the various color coded material provided by Locktite. The material used is a baked on formulation that has a much longer adjustment window and has a plus or minus 3% torque variation. Minor adjustments can be made over months rather than to be restricted to minutes.

I'm not sure about screws designed not to be adjusted.

There are manufacturing advantages not to have to apply a thread-locker to each small screw in assembly as I do in custom knife construction, it can be messy with one knife at a time verses dozens per day per man in mfg.

I'm not sure if these treated screws can be removed and returned without losing some of their retention strength.

Lanyards:

Thank you yablanowitz for your photos and I'd like to fill in some history. Sal suggested a forward lanyard to me and several other competitive cutters years ago.

In competitive cutting going all out with a rear lanyard the shock of the handle always loosens your grip and the knife creeps forward. The forward lanyard position defeats this creeping of the knife out of your hand. This has a great deal to do with where the anchor point is for the lanyard in relationship to your hand. I generally loop the lanyard around my wrist and give it 2 twists until the knife is secure with the twist lying on the crotch of my thumb and fore-finger. Other methods are appropriate for light knives like the Rock Salt but the competitive knives weigh 3X as much, thus in Bladesports the lanyard must encircle the wrist. Really the proof is in the pudding, the best way is to cut and chop and experiment and then you will know what works the best for you...Take Care...Ed

[yablanowitz]

Thanks for chiming in, Ed. I use a longer loop and run it around my wrist much like you do when I use my Forester, but the Temp II was handy and hardly heavy enough to need that much anchoring. That quick loop is handier for general chores.

[sixheads]

WOW ,

Thank you all for your info, all of my questions have been answerd. This is why this is the best fourm i have ever been apart of alot of ideas and opinions with out the B.S. .

So i guess i wont need to remove those screws and lock tite them after all.

Sixheads