I do think the supplier misrepresented his product, or simply did not understand what stabilized wood is. The fact they recommended using linseed oil on it bears that out. Properly stabilized wood has more in common with G-10 and micarta than with untreated wood. It should neither need, or be able to absorb, oil. Stabilization is not a surface treatment, but rather a process where the wood is impregnated with a polymer resin. It should, if anything, work better with poor quality, but extremely attractive, spalted woods because the cracks and soft spots insure deep penetration of the resin. Dense oily woods like Lignum Vitae and Desert Ironwood are rarely stabilized.
That confused me too. I had read it was stabilized, then opened the box and found it sealed with I didn't know what at first. I noticed the scales were a bit shrunken and became more confused. Stabilised woods have seemed more like synthetics than wood, and this had obvious symptoms of regular wood shrinkage. There are also areas that need further sanding as it dried out unevenly, causing lines that appear raised.
The quality was unmistakable though. I'm thinking about finishing the wood to a very fine finish with a semi gloss. Not exactly english buscraft traditional but it would be pretty, like a hand rubbed stock on a custom Mauser or model 70.
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
For the record, I don't think marking and marketing them as seconds would be necessary. From what Sal has said, any and all knives in this batch may be involved and I doubt they'd do another batch with the same wood.
The Mastiff wrote:That confused me too. I had read it was stabilized, then opened the box and found it sealed with I didn't know what at first. I noticed the scales were a bit shrunken and became more confused. Stabilised woods have seemed more like synthetics than wood, and this had obvious symptoms of regular wood shrinkage. There are also areas that need further sanding as it dried out unevenly, causing lines that appear raised.
The quality was unmistakable though. I'm thinking about finishing the wood to a very fine finish with a semi gloss. Not exactly english buscraft traditional but it would be pretty, like a hand rubbed stock on a custom Mauser or model 70.
Joe, some folks call lumber which has had its end grain sealed, a procedure which does stabilize moisture content to a degree, stabilized, but it really a totally different thing.
The Deacon wrote:Sal, might it be possible to offer them as an "SFO exclusive", at a price perhaps just slightly above wholesale,
Obviously, Sal may set the price however he chooses. Since they would be sold at wholesale if they were all perfect, my hope is that the fire sale price will be significantly below that.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
Thank you for this effort and for the dialogue with us, your customers.
In my opinion, bush craft knives are more than just a British sport. Look up Mors Kochanski, who teaches northern survival at the University of Alberta in Canada. He recommends exactly this design of knife as the most functional piece of kit for insuring one's vitality when out the woods for extended periods.
The bushcraft knife represents a functional evolution in practical application. It isn't designed that way to appease some arcane British sensibilities: It's designed that way because it works best in everyday wilderness tasks.
Sal, I view this knife as one of the many pinnacles of design done the way that only Spyderco can do. It's a shame about the handle material, and your supplier has some explaining to do IMO. In any event, I would be happy to purchase one or more as a second, knowing full well that I may have to epoxy cracks. Those knives should be used hard for their intended purpose for karma to come back.
I'll second the calls to sell the bad stock as seconds through the online store. What's the saying, "Spydercos are meant to be used"? I think it would be a shame to keep these knives from being used by people who would appreciate them, cracks or not.
carpdiem wrote:I'll second the calls to sell the bad stock as seconds through the online store. What's the saying, "Spydercos are meant to be used"? I think it would be a shame to keep these knives from being used by people who would appreciate them, cracks or not.
I have already posted before that the ones that are cracked should be put up as seconds for the forum members to get their hands on. It would be great to have the '2nd' version to some what reduce the fear of damaging the knife with use. God forbid that we do damage to a knife while using it. I would definitely buy one, but I doubt we will be hearing from Sal or any of the spyderco crew this week as it it SHOT show. Here's hoping though.
PE Military/CE Mini Manix/CE D'Allara/Yojimbo/Centofante 3//PE D4 Wave/PE D4 Wave/Sage 3/ZDP CE D4//Manix2/Barong/D2 ParaMili/G10 Endura//Manix2//M4 Manix2/Caly Jr./Sage II/M4 Military/Lum Tanto Sprint/MT01/MT02/MT03/MT04/MT05/MT06//FRN UKPK/Karambit/Bug/Honeybee/Grasshopper/Sprint Swick/Swick2/Chokwe//Military//ZDP Stretch//Delica//DayHiker/Lum Chinese//Sage/Chicago/Terzuola/Michael Walker/LeafStorm/SuperHawk/Gayle Bradly//Bushcraft/XHP Military//
