Help with a D2 Para...

[rmc85]

I've been lurking here for a good 6-8 months and registered about a month ago. Please dont think I'm bashing Spyderco posting a question like this on my first post. I love the Spyderco's I have (Military, Para, Police3) and have even gifted a few (Native, Tenacious) to people.

Now on to the problem...

Prior to my question I will fully acknowledge that D2 has a whole lot of weather working against it in Florida. I'm sure the daily thunderstorms, recent 100°F days, constant 70% humidity, and my sweaty self are not helping the situation.

I already knew from reading the Forum and the little card included with the D2 Para that rust could be a problem. I have a D2 (coated) Griptilian and I've never had a rust problem with it in all the years I've had/carried it. The coating on my Grip is worn off in spots and I figured because it never rusted on those spots or on the cutting edge that the Para would be fine with minor maintenance. I was dead wrong. I have been making sure to wipe down the blade with gun oil (Rem oil, CLP, or Hoppe's) and not leave it wet or sitting in the elements.

The first time I noticed some surface rust it was on the jimping on top of the blade and inside the Spyder hole. I grabbed some oil, a steel brush, and made quick work of that surface rust. I started wondering if any of that rust was there when I got the knife. I pulled up some images I took the day I received the Para to see if any rust was on the blade.

Sure enough I could see there was already some surface rust in the Spyder hole but not on the jimping. It was no biggie because it came right off and the knife was produced 02-09 and I got it 06-04-09. I figured that 4 months sitting there would be enough time for little bit of surface rust and it came right off. No big deal.

A week later I had the same thing happen again so out came the oil and brush. This time I took the blade out of the G-10 to make sure I got the whole blade 100% clean. I was oiling the blade between the surface rust showing up but I guess it didn't help much if any at all.

Today I saw there was some pretty good surface rust the side of the blade at a spot that's under the G-10 so I had to get out the Torx set and go at it. This time there was some light pitting left on the surface of the blade. Not good!

So in less than a month I've taken the knife apart twice and had surface rust a few times between cleanings. I need to figure out some way to make this stop. I would hate to put this knife in my safe because I LOVE this blade. I use all the knives I buy and I don't want to have to watch the blade like its a 3 year old child.

Solutions...

1. Oil the blade every day (not very practical for me)
2. Retire my month old knife (heck no!)
3. Figure out some kind of clear coat I can put over the blade
4. Tuf Cloth? I've never used it so I dont know how well it work's. Will it be better than using oil? can I get them at Home Depot or another local store?
5. Tell me why I'm stupid and what I should do.

Please help me!!!!!!

Now some pics I took (I didnt take these to show rust. They are all ones I took after cleaning!)... :D

[The Deacon]

One reason for the difference may be that the Para uses CPM-D2 and the other knife uses regular D2, the properties of the two steels, including rust resistance, may be quite different. As for your problem, Tuff Cloth or Tuff Glide is worth a try. Assuming you're in the US, most gun shops should carry them.

[rmc85]

One reason for the difference may be that the Para uses CPM-D2 and the other knife uses regular D2, the properties of the two steels, including rust resistance, may be quite different. As for your problem, Tuff Cloth or Tuff Glide is worth a try. Assuming you're in the US, most gun shops should carry them.

I'm in Florida and I just added that to my profile. I've asked this same thing in the Spyderco sub-forum on bladeforums.com and one of the members suggested I come over here and ask. He said there are some members here that use their D2 Para's in pretty wet environments and could probably help me.

I don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place! Most people seem to be suggesting Tuf Cloth.

[NoFair]

Like I said on BF I haven't had any issues with mine and it has been carried inside my waistband (pretty damp) while crosscountry skiing for 10 days without any lubrication. No spotting or rust.

Weather switches from this



To this:



Worst I've managed is gray stains from acids..

This is probably no help at all :o , but it seems strange you have such corrosion issues..

[Ed Gordon]

I have had my D2 para for about a year now. I have some light staining on the blade but figure this is par for the course with a non stainless blade steel. I oil my blade about once a week with rem oil. Now Florida might be a different story... I can't speak to the humidity or salt water climate. You might need to oil your para nightly. Mine has been drenched with sweat and used alot. The staining doesn't hurt performance.

[v8r]

i would think it would be due to the salty air.It wouldn't seem like a too difficult thing to give her a little wipe down every day.

[mrappraisit]

I don't know if this will work but lot's of smiths use some kind of rub-on wax, like carnuba, or briwax. Maybe this will form enough of a barrier to keep the rust at bay?

You may also want to ask in a carving forum as most carving tools are high carbon steel, not stainless


Of course you could only try something like that if you don't intend to use your para for food cutting duties. Good luck, let us know what works for you.

[Piercieve]

Is D2 able to develop a patina? Would that be a viable option? That has helped my 52100 Mule some.

[Billy]

I live in South Florida, less than 2 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and have never had any corrosion issues on my D2 Millie. I have used it in the yard, in the kitchen and have managed to sweat all over it as well. The most I ever do is give it a quick wipe with an oil saturated rag maybe once a week if it's being EDC'd. If you're carrying it on the ocean or anywhere where it's being subject to actual salt spray, I could kind of see it happening, but the rate your getting visible corrosion seems excessive. Especially considering that fact that you are cleaning and oiling it on a regular basis. Not sure what to tell you other than give it a quick wipe down every night when you put it on your dresser or nightstand. :confused:

[rmc85]

Ok. So we got lube the blade more and maybe use wax.

I dont know what to say...Seems weird that I'm the only person with this big of a problem. It shouldnt be an issue with salt in the air because I live in Gainesville. I got a good 1 1/2 hours to the coast on either side.

I'll look into patina.

[rmc85]

Now that I'm looking more into patina it seems there are very mixed thoughts on if D2 will take a good patina if any at all.

[rmc85]

Like I said on BF I haven't had any issues with mine and it has been carried inside my waistband (pretty damp) while crosscountry skiing for 10 days without any lubrication. No spotting or rust.

Weather switches from this



To this:



Worst I've managed is gray stains from acids..

This is probably no help at all :o , but it seems strange you have such corrosion issues..

Are you a member on CPF? I'm guessing its you because of the same username and location. What method do you use for Patina? you seem to get good results.

[NoFair]

Yep, member on CPF. Same username everywhere :D

I used hot red whine vinegar and let it soak for a few minutes. I gave it a thorough clean before the soak to get any oil/fat of the blade.

It was quite a bit darker than in the pictures when I took it out, but after cleaning it the color has stayed constant like below.



It will be coming with me to the mountains for the next week or two.

Sverre

[monsterdog]

I used hot red whine vinegar and let it soak for a few minutes. I gave it a thorough clean before the soak to get any oil/fat of the blade.

Saw this on BF, thought of asking, but I'll ask here. Did you take the knife apart before you soaked the blade? Or did you just stick the whole knife into a glass of vinegar?

[NoFair]

Saw this on BF, thought of asking, but I'll ask here. Did you take the knife apart before you soaked the blade? Or did you just stick the whole knife into a glass of vinegar?

Just dipped the blade up to the pivot :D

Since the patina is softer than the steel it will wear away from the locking surfaces anyway so dipping everything shouldn't be a problem. I was just lazy :o

The vinegar was hot, but not boiling hot.

Sverre

[Mightyquinn]

RMC85, You may want to try some of this stuff here renaissancewax I have heard good things about it on other forums and sounds like it might work, been thinking of getting some myself, it is a little pricey though.

[rmc85]

I think I'm going to try to patina it.

[matt009au]

post pics of how it turns out mate, my d2 para has developed a very light splotchy patina of its own accord, i was thinking about using some vinegar to even it up over the whole blade.

[spydutch]

The day befor yesterday I put a very thick layer of Ballistol kleber on the blade, very agressively rubbed it in and let it soak in overnight.
Carried the blade clipless in my RBK the whole day yesterday and no signs of rust so far.
And it was very hot and humid yesterday.
Oeps checked it just now and slight discoloration after all where the blade sat in the handle. :confused:
I easily wiped it off with my shirt though

[rmc85]

My attempt at patina failed. I got some red wine vinegar, warmed it, and left my blade in it for 30 mins after a good cleaning/drying.

My blade looks exactly the same. Did I screw up by getting the vinegar too hot? When the blade was hanging in the vinegar I could see a bunch of bubbles forming on it...but after I took it out it looked exactly the same.

Maybe I need to try some different vinegar or maybe dip it in lemon juice or something.