Time to Talk Tools
Up till now I've used some pretty basic tools; drill press, vise, coping saw & hacksaw. Now it's time to break out the expensive specialized equipment that can and should only be used to make a knife. Not!
From left to right: Half-round wood file, round wood file, small wooden sanding block made from scrap, Dremel rotary tool with 1/2" coarse sanding drum and carbide "grout removal bit", and green Scotchbrite pad. Not shown is an assortment of sanding paper from 100 through 600 grit. That's it!
Sanding blocks are important. Because metal is harder than wood, when you sand wood with your fingers you wind up taking more wood off than metal and you get a hard edge where the wood and the metal meet. Use a sanding block whenever you can to ensure the sandpaper is cutting everything evenly. Wrap the sandpaper around the file to make odd-shaped sanding blocks.
Confession Time: I got so carried away with how well the knife was shaping up I neglected to take photos of the progress I was making as I was making it. Consequently I'll describe the steps I took to block it out and show the hard-to-describe part on a scrap piece. Sorry - I was having too much fun.
First thing to do was lay out the lines of the top edge of the brow. Use the flat side of the half round to radius the top of the blanks from the tang down to this line.
Next, draw another line 1/8" under that edge to be the bottom edge of the brow. Warm up the Dremel...
Crazy as it seems, that carbide grout bit is a fine little carving tool when used with a light touch. LIGHT touch, that is. I carefully carve out a little valley along the underside of the brow line by making many many light passes. It's easy to take too much wood off - a lot harder to put it back!
Now put on the sanding drum and LIGHTLY open up this valley towards the belly of the scales. This tool removes a lot of material and if you don't keep moving it will burn the wood. In a short time you've got a smooth recessed shape that you can blend in with the other contours of the scales with the files! Mesquite smells like popcorn, BTW.
This is called change of plans and it happens all the time. Once I got the scales roughed into shape and the brow carved out on both sides I realized the whole thing was looking a little blocky, chunky, klutzy, boring. Off to the belt sander to taper the scales from the front to back. Of course, I had to go back and re-profile the top and rework the brow....
From there is was a matter of profiling the bottom of the belly, round like a sea horse, and the main choil for the index finger.
Take a look at the brow at the front of the scales. Doesn't quite look like the sketch right? Change of plans again. I wanted to bring the brow out past the "faux-bolster" but if I took too much material off the choil it would have looked and, most importantly, felt wierd. Always trust your hands first, then your eyes. So the Dremel came out and I turned the "fauxlster" back in toward the blade getting the sculptural look I wanted with the finger grip I needed. Also note the little dip in the top of the brow for the thump to rest in.
Shown upside down you get a view of the sculpted "fauxlster".
Sure, it's an odd look but I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns fitted with Harry Lawson's finest thumbholes. HE is a master at blending the odd-angled sculptural element with a graceful ergonomic curve....
'Round back the brow was to make a curl down to the bottom of the scales but, taking a cue from the '59 Impala, they extend straight back and fade out similar to the front of the scales.
Ok, now about finishes. WATCO RULES! Danish is a penetrating oil that soaks into and protects the wood. It gives a beautiful natural glow to the grain. Before you can use it you need to sand the knife AND tang with successive grits of sandpaper until it is buttery smooth. Use the a sanding block on that tang or you'll never get the belt sander scratches out! Apply the danish oil with a soft cotten rag LIBERALLY soaked with it and let it dry for three days. Three days? Yes, three days. After three days you'll want to rub it all over with a fresh scotchbrite pad and hit it with the Danish again, and this time let it sit for one day. Follow with the finishing wax and you'll have a beautiful durable finish that FEELS like wood - not wood under plastic!
Tomorrow the glammy shots, here's one to hold you till then...
