Welcome aboard bill. You won't regret getting the Native. The 204 is also a great purchase, helps keep all mine sharp. Personally I sharpen to the 30 but I think that may just be personal opinion. Good luck and enjoy.
Jyork
my first Spyderco...& some questions
-
Hoosierdaddy
- Member
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Ca. USA
Bill,
Welcome to the Spyderco Forum!
Good choice on the Native to start your "addiction" with <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> ! I can tell you it probably won't be your last Spyderco!
The difference between Hollow Ground and Flat Ground is H/G is a thick blade with a bevel cut. F/G is a thinner blade without the bevel cut.
Welcome to the Spyderco Forum!
Good choice on the Native to start your "addiction" with <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> ! I can tell you it probably won't be your last Spyderco!
The difference between Hollow Ground and Flat Ground is H/G is a thick blade with a bevel cut. F/G is a thinner blade without the bevel cut.
-
Hoosierdaddy
- Member
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Ca. USA
Hi Bill, welcome aboard.
IMHO the Native is one of the best all rounders out there.
The hollow grind is formed by the blade being ground between to circular wheels, which means it has a thicker middle section but a thinner edge, this type is very good for light cuts like paper or string. The flat grind tapers from the spine of the blade right down to the cutting edge like most carving knives, this type is very good for deeper cuts where the blade is likely to pass all the way through the material.
I'm begining to favour the flat grind, but some of my favourtite knives are hollow grind - go figure <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
A 40 degree sharpened edge is recommended for the softer steels like AUS-6 (AUS-6 is a good steel, but at the lower end of the good steels), whereas the better steels can take 30 degrees. AUS-10 should take a 30 degree edge just fine. If you do find that you are using the Native for very hard tasks and the 30deg edge isn't holding too well, you can use the 30degs as a back bevel and put a 40deg bevel on as the primary edge.
"Walk softly, but carry a big stick."
IMHO the Native is one of the best all rounders out there.
The hollow grind is formed by the blade being ground between to circular wheels, which means it has a thicker middle section but a thinner edge, this type is very good for light cuts like paper or string. The flat grind tapers from the spine of the blade right down to the cutting edge like most carving knives, this type is very good for deeper cuts where the blade is likely to pass all the way through the material.
I'm begining to favour the flat grind, but some of my favourtite knives are hollow grind - go figure <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
A 40 degree sharpened edge is recommended for the softer steels like AUS-6 (AUS-6 is a good steel, but at the lower end of the good steels), whereas the better steels can take 30 degrees. AUS-10 should take a 30 degree edge just fine. If you do find that you are using the Native for very hard tasks and the 30deg edge isn't holding too well, you can use the 30degs as a back bevel and put a 40deg bevel on as the primary edge.
"Walk softly, but carry a big stick."
bill,
The Native is a great knife, good choice for a first Spyderco. The Native's blade is hollow ground, compare it to a Calypso Jr., Chinese Folder, or Lil'Temperance, and you will see the difference. These last three knives are all flat ground. Hossier and Yog explained it quite well, btw. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
I include the site's photo of the Native (C41) and the Chinese Folder (C65) so you can compare.
Kahz
Edited by - Kahz on 2/11/2002 5:34:55 PM
The Native is a great knife, good choice for a first Spyderco. The Native's blade is hollow ground, compare it to a Calypso Jr., Chinese Folder, or Lil'Temperance, and you will see the difference. These last three knives are all flat ground. Hossier and Yog explained it quite well, btw. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
I include the site's photo of the Native (C41) and the Chinese Folder (C65) so you can compare.
Kahz
Edited by - Kahz on 2/11/2002 5:34:55 PM
There are three major grinds used in most knives: Hollow, Flat, and Saber.
Hollow grind is what is found on your Native. It is a thick overall blade for strength, with a concave (inwardly curved) grind from somewhere in the middle of the blade to the edge. It is very useful for cuts that don't require the blade to cut all the way through a hard surface. Sawing a thick piece of wood with a hollow-ground blade is difficult. The knife will bite right in till it gets about halfway up the grind, then the wedge shape becomes very pronounced and binds the blade. However, it is very useful in tasks where the cut is shallow but hard, such as thinner wood, cord, and cloth. Due to the inward curve of the grind, it may or may not work well for whittling, as the middle of the blade is much thicker than the edge (therefore getting in the way), and the slope to the edge is not linear, which would help to stabilize the blade.
Flat grinds are found on the Calypso and Calypso Jr., Lil' Temperance, and the new model Endura and Delica. In this grind, the dull side of the blade is pretty much the widest part of the blade. From there, it tapers in a straight line to the sharp edge. The result is a completely flat face on both sides of the blade. The blade is weaker overall than a hollow-ground, but you probably won't notice much difference unless you stab it deep in something and actually try to bend the blade. This grind is perfect for cuts where the entire blade has to go through a rigid material. The blade doesn't push the material to the side as fast.
The last grind, not found often on Spydies, is the saber grind. This grind is a cross between the flat and hollow. The overall makeup is like a hollow-ground, but the taper of the grind is flat instead of inwardly curved. This is the strongest style of blade, and still good for whittling, as the grind stabilizes the blade at the right angle to cut into the wood. However, it suffers many of the same problems as the hollow ground, in many cases to a greater degree. The flat bevel to the grind means that the material cut has to be pushed away from the moment it is cut into.
Hollow grind is what is found on your Native. It is a thick overall blade for strength, with a concave (inwardly curved) grind from somewhere in the middle of the blade to the edge. It is very useful for cuts that don't require the blade to cut all the way through a hard surface. Sawing a thick piece of wood with a hollow-ground blade is difficult. The knife will bite right in till it gets about halfway up the grind, then the wedge shape becomes very pronounced and binds the blade. However, it is very useful in tasks where the cut is shallow but hard, such as thinner wood, cord, and cloth. Due to the inward curve of the grind, it may or may not work well for whittling, as the middle of the blade is much thicker than the edge (therefore getting in the way), and the slope to the edge is not linear, which would help to stabilize the blade.
Flat grinds are found on the Calypso and Calypso Jr., Lil' Temperance, and the new model Endura and Delica. In this grind, the dull side of the blade is pretty much the widest part of the blade. From there, it tapers in a straight line to the sharp edge. The result is a completely flat face on both sides of the blade. The blade is weaker overall than a hollow-ground, but you probably won't notice much difference unless you stab it deep in something and actually try to bend the blade. This grind is perfect for cuts where the entire blade has to go through a rigid material. The blade doesn't push the material to the side as fast.
The last grind, not found often on Spydies, is the saber grind. This grind is a cross between the flat and hollow. The overall makeup is like a hollow-ground, but the taper of the grind is flat instead of inwardly curved. This is the strongest style of blade, and still good for whittling, as the grind stabilizes the blade at the right angle to cut into the wood. However, it suffers many of the same problems as the hollow ground, in many cases to a greater degree. The flat bevel to the grind means that the material cut has to be pushed away from the moment it is cut into.
I assume it is the Native ll you got with the aus 10 steel.I have the Native and Native ll.The aus 10 takes an extremely fine edge while the 440v takes a little more coarse edge.The aus 10 will slice through paper like it is not there but the 440V snags a little but it runs through card board better than any steel I have used.I sharpen both on 30 degrees.
Hopefully I will find the blue G10 version soon.The Native is the best design Spyderco has ever came up with,Endura,Delica,and Rookie being very close behind.I am sure I will get some argument on this.Everbody has thier own favs.
Just noticed you are from Nashville.I bought my Native at a little shop in Lebanon.
Jeff
Edited by - J Smith on 2/11/2002 11:30:59 PM
Hopefully I will find the blue G10 version soon.The Native is the best design Spyderco has ever came up with,Endura,Delica,and Rookie being very close behind.I am sure I will get some argument on this.Everbody has thier own favs.
Just noticed you are from Nashville.I bought my Native at a little shop in Lebanon.
Jeff
Edited by - J Smith on 2/11/2002 11:30:59 PM
-
sam the man..
- Member
- Posts: 2936
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
-
double axe
- Member
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Welcome to the Forum, bill.
I <b>LOVE </b> the Native. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> The ergonomics and handling are excellent. I'm sure you'll enjoy it for many years to come.
As far as sharpening goes, 40 degrees would work well for your intended use.
"Hope for the best. Be prepared for the worst. You'll never be disappointed."
I <b>LOVE </b> the Native. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> The ergonomics and handling are excellent. I'm sure you'll enjoy it for many years to come.
As far as sharpening goes, 40 degrees would work well for your intended use.
"Hope for the best. Be prepared for the worst. You'll never be disappointed."
-
Sword and Shield
- Member
- Posts: 2050
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: USA
Hi Bill! Welcome to the Forums! <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
As for the 204, best sharpener ever made. Period. I have yet to see a knife that it couldn't hone, easily making them shave hair.
I would go for a 20/20 edge on the Native. While I'm one of the few that will say this, I've always noticed a 40 degree edge to be a better utility edge than a 30. 30 is an angle I use on woodcarving tools, but 40 is best for general use.
Good choice on the knife, still better choice on the forums. Glad to have you aboard. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
Keepin' it real...real sharp, that is.
As for the 204, best sharpener ever made. Period. I have yet to see a knife that it couldn't hone, easily making them shave hair.
I would go for a 20/20 edge on the Native. While I'm one of the few that will say this, I've always noticed a 40 degree edge to be a better utility edge than a 30. 30 is an angle I use on woodcarving tools, but 40 is best for general use.
Good choice on the knife, still better choice on the forums. Glad to have you aboard. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
Keepin' it real...real sharp, that is.