PE, CE, or SE for tough jobs?

[carpdiem]

So, there are a lot of threads discussing the relative merits of all of the edge profiles spyderco offers. Some are better for push cuts, some for slicing, and everybody has their favorites.

However, I don't think I've seen discussion about the suitability of different edges for really tough jobs. For example, if I'm doing batonning, I'd prefer a PE knife, as I kind of feel that the serrations on CE and SE blades could be a weak point. I don't want the tip of a serration to get caught near a knot and snap off.

What about for something like cutting through heavy duty, double layer cardboard with the possibility of staples? Yes, I know, you can go through and check the material, removing all of the staples beforehand, but you won't always get them all. For the sake of discussion, I suspect that SE is just generally better at slicing through cardboard, and could keep going sharp, for longer, but what if you hit a staple while cutting vigorously? Again, I feel like in that case, a SE blade would be more likely to incur greater damage than a PE blade.

Any other situations you guys can think of, or any thoughts about the ones I've proposed?

[swingshot]

, but what if you hit a staple while cutting vigorously?

A staple will put a ding in any blade if it catches it at the right angle, or just happens to be hard enough. That said the harder steels are probably more prone to chipping in such an instance.

Fiberous materials such as those used to keep cardboard mailers closed can also be quite hard on serrations.


A VG10 Harpy may fit what you're looking for(?)

[WOTANSON1]

I'm a big proponent of the SE blade. I honestly believe that a SE will cut more efficiently and hold an edge longer than any other edge configuration. Now it might not be the best for battoning or scrapping but it's design is inherently stronger because the serrations are an arc which is much stronger than a straight edge. Because of the arc you get something like 20+ percent more cutting edge than with a PE blade. SE will eat cardboard like butter, it laughs at poly rope and goes through plastic ties and all plastics (like clam packs) like a scalpel. It only takes one step to get back the edge on SE and will hold it longer. You owe it to yourself to try one out.
Cheers,
Rob

[spydutch]

Just like Rob says

Full spyderedge for EVERY job :D

[Left Hand Path]

carpdiem - you may be right about the staple. I don't have any edge measurements, but based on edge angles a SE can be quite thin compared to a PE. The SE is ground on 1 side only, so the included angle can be half that of a PE. This could make chipping more likely in some circumstances. I also think PE is better suited to batonning.

I have a friend who uses a Tasman SE pretty hard. Nothing too abusive, but he cuts a LOT of cardboard, plastics, zip-ties, rubber, etc. I sharpen his knife for him, and he has rolled the plain-edge section at the tip by impacting metal, and dulled the knife repeatedly, but no chips. I am amazed at how well H-1 steel is holding up for him. This knife has even cut through some kevlar by accident (in a bicycle tire) and bicycle brake housing made of rubber/wire with no damage other than some dulling. I have been impressed with the performance.

For me, hard-use means SE. In fact I was just cutting some cardboard today, and I used both PE and SE. The SE push-cut through the cardboard very nicely.

[bladese97]

:spyder: :spyder: :cool: :spyder: :spyder: I would have to say my preference would be the combo edge; The best of both worlds that in my experience has sliced through the most severe, and agressive materials I've thrown at them, but if there was no ce, I sure as **** would go with the Spyderedge...ANYDAY :)

[yablanowitz]

Speaking as someone who has trashed a lot of edges, of all configurations, all I'm going to say is it is a lot easier to repair major damage on plain edges than on serrations.

[Zdenek]

The most universal is properly sharpen plain edge.

[Billy]

Why not just carry one of each? That way, you can always have a choice and use whatever seems appropriate for the job. I like to carry a curved SE blade (Harpy, Tasman, Cricket or Dodo) as well as at least two PE blades (one big, one small).

I will say one thing though, and that is, look at most of the big camp knives and bushcraft knives and see what edge configuration is most prominent for those hard use blades.

[dedguy]

I used an SE Harpy while working for Target for like 2 years. I was only working about 25-30 hours a week (I was also developing my illustration skills which lead to better job). During those hours though I often needed to cut down large amount of cardboard sometimes that nasty hard pressed board stuff they use to package large TVs and some lawn furniture.

My blade did get dulled over time but was still plenty sharp enough for what I was using it for, cutting boxes, and I didn't get it sharpened until after I no longer worked at Target and could afford to buy a second knife to be my backup while I sent the Harpy in for TLC.

So for about 2 years 25-30 hours a week I used by SE VG-10 Harpy hard and never sharpened it and it worked well the whole time.

These days though I don't use it much at all as the hawkbill isn't super useful for the sort of daily cutting I run into, for boxes though it's king.

[Left Hand Path]

That's a great story, dedguy, and quite a testament to the SE Harpy and the enduring cutting power of serrations.

[SimpleIsGood229]

Why not just carry one of each? That way, you can always have a choice and use whatever seems appropriate for the job. I like to carry a curved SE blade (Harpy, Tasman, Cricket or Dodo) as well as at least two PE blades (one big, one small).

I will say one thing though, and that is, look at most of the big camp knives and bushcraft knives and see what edge configuration is most prominent for those hard use blades.

I whole-heartedly agree with Billy. A SE Tasman, PE Manix, and Street Beat is my typical EDC.

Speaking as someone who has trashed a lot of edges, of all configurations, all I'm going to say is it is a lot easier to repair major damage on plain edges than on serrations.

Absolutely! Trashed serrations really are a pain to fix, even if it's H-1. Don't ask how I know this. :rolleyes:

[jaislandboy]

Why not just carry one of each? That way, you can always have a choice and use whatever seems appropriate for the job. I like to carry a curved SE blade (Harpy, Tasman, Cricket or Dodo) as well as at least two PE blades (one big, one small)....

Yeah, I recommend one of those byrd Wings.....I got one yesterday evening....it's awesome...no time for pix now.....but the G10 handle is grippy....the liner locks work great (no blade play either one) and the entire "package" was only like $32.47 at the Pharmacy (sold out now though :eek: ).... incredible knife for the price.... I don't own any Dyads but the Wings fills that role well if you need a "working knife" that you can rely on....great job on this one by Spyderco.... I'll try to throw up some pix later...
So far, ALL G-10 handled Byrds are recommended without reservation :)

[dedguy]

Spyderco needs to make a PE drop point SE hawkbill dual bladed folder. Would be perfect.

[i.v]

The debate between PE & SE is always a hard one for me. I'm a die hard SE fan but I also realize that both blade configurations have their places.
For the most part, for hard jobs you just can't beat SE but sometimes if I have something to cut that I know could cause small chips or other light blade damage I will go for the PE for the ease of repair afterwards. Fixing SE is beyond pain...

SE is for cutting and sawing and is not suitable for batonning or chopping, that's why I think you don't see it on bigger blades. On small knives like the Cricket or Tasman (especially those 2 :D ) it just doesn't get any better.

As for the angle, I sharpen my SE blades on both ends, over time they get stronger and still cut just as well.

[MAT888]

I think it depend on the material that needs cutting;

For tough fibres materials like spannerbands thick cardboard shrinkfoil plastic clambshells etc Se either normal blade or hawkbill .

For witling wood peeling fruit and other delicate tasks which require clean cuts and precize control PE.

So i would recommand to cary at least to knives for work;
1pe and 1 se or 1 dyad or wings :D