G-10 Scales for the Mule

TVOSK · #1

Is anyone here making and selling G-10 handles for the Mule? I have on on the way but Im not talented enough to make them myself.....

aero_student · #2

I don't know of anyone making them yet. Please be careful when working g10 and wear a proper respirator and have good ventillation as it can be very nasty stuff.

I'm in hawaii right now and my dad and I bought some koa wood, so I think I'll be making a humidor and some scales for my mule team when I get back.

It seems the real difficulty right now for everyone is finding a good method of attachment.

gac · #3

Are there any good adhesives to use alone instead of mating the pieces with pins?

araneae · #4

I plan on making my own G-10 handles and know at least one other forumite who is well under way. Unfortunately the holes are an off size and its difficult to find screws to match them. At this point I am working on locating hardware that will allow modular use of the scales. That way they can easily be removed to swap to another Mule.

I will probably start a Kydex sheath tonight. Tinkering with this Mule's gonna be fun.

araneae · #5

gac wrote:Are there any good adhesives to use alone instead of mating the pieces with pins?

Epoxy works well for that although it can be a bit messy if you aren't careful. Devcon makes some good ones as well as the Superglue Company. Regular super glue is even sufficient to bond wood to metal.

aero_student · #6

Please let me know if you find a system that allows for a more "modular" approach as that is the direction I want to go as well.

araneae · #7

aero_student wrote:Please let me know if you find a system that allows for a more "modular" approach as that is the direction I want to go as well.

No problem. I'll keep you in mind.

bh49 · #8

May be you will be able to find help over there
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31510

kbuzbee · #9

+1, I'm keeping an eye open for anything that will work well and look decent.

Ken

butch · #10

i ll be using a carbide ball endmill and opening the holes i want to use to 3/16 so i can use STD. hardware :D

for me that sure will be the easiest way to do things

Raqudu · #11

araneae wrote:Epoxy works well for that although it can be a bit messy if you aren't careful. Devcon makes some good ones as well as the Superglue Company. Regular super glue is even sufficient to bond wood to metal.

The problem with super glue is its lack of shear strength. If you pull on it, it is great, but hit it from the side and it will break loose. Epoxy is better, but still low in shear strength. Both need the help of pins or screws to carry the shear load.

Geegolly · #12

I think some sort of screw assembly in 4mm would be ideal If you wanted a removable system... granted 4mm(5/32) is .157" and the hole we are talking about is around .163"

For a more permanent solution. Does anyone know of commercial places that you can take material to be lathed?

myatt371 · #13

Raqudu wrote:The problem with super glue is its lack of shear strength. If you pull on it, it is great, but hit it from the side and it will break loose. Epoxy is better, but still low in shear strength. Both need the help of pins or screws to carry the shear load.

Sure...Go ahead and "grab" the blade...So the handle can used like a hammer! :D

I agree...pins and/or screws are needed. I wonder if the "carbon" content of 52100 would help epoxy "bond" better? Any Molecular Scientist around? :D

Perhaps..."more" porous?

SimpleIsGood229 · #14

I'm thinking STR will be able to make some G-10 Scales for the Mule.

myatt371 wrote: I agree...pins and/or screws are needed. I wonder if the "carbon" content of 52100 would help epoxy "bond" better? Any Molecular Scientist around? :D

BlondeChemist may be able to help here.

FLYcrash · #15

I'm not BlondeChemist, but I would definitely say to use pins or screws with the epoxy. Roughening the tang by sanding might help adhesion. Degreasing the surface by wiping down with clean acetone and allowing to air-dry just before applying the adhesive is also a good idea. But there's no substitute for a good pair of pins. My guess is that using pins along with a really careful epoxy job (really clean and thoroughly cured) would make for durability that will exceed your expectations.

carrot · #16

I'm currently in talks with a knifemaker about making modular scales + a kydex sheath for my Mule. I'll report back to let you know how it pans out. It's sounding pretty good so far.

Brad S. · #17

TVOSK wrote:Is anyone here making and selling G-10 handles for the Mule? I have on on the way but Im not talented enough to make them myself.....

PM Sent :)

Blackhair · #18

I have absolutely zero experience in making knives or scales, but it seems to me as though barrel screws would be an excellent option for a fast modular system.

Maybe I'm over-simplifying it, and it wouldn't work at all. :o

JacksonKnives · #19

Blackhair wrote:I have absolutely zero experience in making knives or scales, but it seems to me as though barrel screws would be an excellent option for a fast modular system.

Maybe I'm over-simplifying it, and it wouldn't work at all. :o

Not sure exactly what fastener you're referring to, but it sounds just fine.
The trouble is that the holes are non-standard sizes. Not sure why, but they are what they are. You could (as has been mentioned) drill them out so they'll fit your 3/16" or 1/4" hardware.

To be honest, I think epoxy will cover 97% of the requirements for the Mule. (I've taken off 2% because I know how crazy you guys are with your knives...) The pins on most customs of this size are almost purely aesthetic once the piece is finished, although they do make it much easier to assemble.
If we were talking about a Hossom chopper or a Kukri or a machete, things would be different.
Being able to add/remove scales is nice, to be sure, but how many of you have ever really customised your fixed blade knives in that way before?

The most difficult part of this project for most users is probably going to be finishing the handle once it's on. You can finish a handle with files and sandpaper, but it's not exactly the most relaxing way to spend a weekend. (Especially if you use G-10... ick, fiberglass is nasty stuff.) I'm very glad I just upgraded to a 2x72" grinder with a small wheel attachment. :D

butch · #20

yep i have a KMG an d love it its even VS too but the trick here is to get the spyder crew a set of scales that can be swapped out from one mule to the other

drilling out the holes to a std. size would be one way to have a lathe operator turn out a bunch of hard ware that fits the hole and takes 4-40 or 2-56 screws would be the other
mind you tis is all barring Sal making a "parts kit" or swaping the hole size to 3/16