CMP D2 Military
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
CMP D2 Military
Just got it!
Better Pictures
This baby is so sweet! The Spyderhole came polished up and clean, very tight tolerance.
Better Pictures
This baby is so sweet! The Spyderhole came polished up and clean, very tight tolerance.
- Lostification
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- Posts: 718
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 10:50 am
- Location: Sunset Beach - Haleiwa - Oahu - Hawaii - USA - Earth - Milky Way - 2ZS467 XD1 211 - Ä↔ôáÖºî±
- Contact:
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
- Lostification
- Member
- Posts: 718
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 10:50 am
- Location: Sunset Beach - Haleiwa - Oahu - Hawaii - USA - Earth - Milky Way - 2ZS467 XD1 211 - Ä↔ôáÖºî±
- Contact:
- Capt. Carl
- Member
- Posts: 861
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:14 pm
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
Same price as the standard Military. Your price from your dealer may vary so I won't post what my dealer charged me for it. I can tell you it was less than MSRP. I picked up two with plans to pick up two more the beginning of next month if they survive the frenzy. I have to say that so far I am very pleased with the knife and provided that someone doesn't beat me to it I will post a review in the standard forum this weekend.
WW
WW
wooohooo! that looks great!
hopefully the cpm treatment took some quirks out of the D2!
Ookami
________
How To Roll Blunts
hopefully the cpm treatment took some quirks out of the D2!
Ookami
________
How To Roll Blunts
- jaislandboy
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- Posts: 6150
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 1:00 pm
- Location: tennessee
- Fred Sanford
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- Location: Ohio, USA
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
David,
Thanks for the compliment. I liked your pics better. I have a couple of things I can use for backdrop and the camo net is one of them. I like it a lot but the problem comes with the lighting to get the picture just right. Ultimately the burlap always saves the day since it does not reflect the flash and makes most things stand out. I took some more pics of the knife while I was using it to cut branches off a tree that fell in my yard this weekend and they came out a lot better but those will be for another thread on another day.
So far the D2 is holding well. It isn't hair shaving sharp anymore because I have been using it for everything this weekend and I can't find my leather strop but aside from not shaving hair it is still very sharp. I understand now the name for the knife since hindsight is 20/20 this is the knife I should have owned while I was in service a couple of years back.
It took me about 150 open/close cycles to get the lock broken in to the point where it engages on a soft opening (thumb instead of inertia). Though the blade in its closed position is still very hard to inertia open.
I will probably take the knife apart in the future and drill holes and put new bushings in so that it can be carried in the left side with easier deployment (opposite side of the stock location and by the tip instead of the pivot point).
The green G-10 is just flat out sexy and has a very secure grip to it. The jimping (is that the proper term?) above and below the blade by the pivot point make using this knife for delicate carving or cutting very useful.
I can see more Mili's in my future.
WW
Thanks for the compliment. I liked your pics better. I have a couple of things I can use for backdrop and the camo net is one of them. I like it a lot but the problem comes with the lighting to get the picture just right. Ultimately the burlap always saves the day since it does not reflect the flash and makes most things stand out. I took some more pics of the knife while I was using it to cut branches off a tree that fell in my yard this weekend and they came out a lot better but those will be for another thread on another day.
So far the D2 is holding well. It isn't hair shaving sharp anymore because I have been using it for everything this weekend and I can't find my leather strop but aside from not shaving hair it is still very sharp. I understand now the name for the knife since hindsight is 20/20 this is the knife I should have owned while I was in service a couple of years back.
It took me about 150 open/close cycles to get the lock broken in to the point where it engages on a soft opening (thumb instead of inertia). Though the blade in its closed position is still very hard to inertia open.
I will probably take the knife apart in the future and drill holes and put new bushings in so that it can be carried in the left side with easier deployment (opposite side of the stock location and by the tip instead of the pivot point).
The green G-10 is just flat out sexy and has a very secure grip to it. The jimping (is that the proper term?) above and below the blade by the pivot point make using this knife for delicate carving or cutting very useful.
I can see more Mili's in my future.
WW
- Capt. Carl
- Member
- Posts: 861
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:14 pm
Not rust. Just discoloration from laser etching. I have the same thing on my BG-42 military. I think it may be a common thing with golden knives.spyderdog wrote:Winston - did you have a few rust spots on yours? I though maybe the first set of pics had a few small spots...thumbhole and jimping? Mine does.
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
Spyderdog,
I think you are referring to this:
I have looked closely at this. It looks like cosmetic flaws not rust. I can tell you that the stuff that looks like rust in the jimping is discoloration from either a laser or an EDM. I have worked enough steel in both a laser cuter and wire cutting EDM to know the tell tale signs of the process. So the cosmetics in the jimping are processing leftover that is almost impossible to do away with since the EDM & Laser process both mess with the structure of the steel (high temperatures). The spot below the Spyderhole looks more like either a structural flaw in the steel that just happens to have been in the surfacing plane. Particle based steel tends to have this kind of stuff all over it.
WW
I think you are referring to this:
I have looked closely at this. It looks like cosmetic flaws not rust. I can tell you that the stuff that looks like rust in the jimping is discoloration from either a laser or an EDM. I have worked enough steel in both a laser cuter and wire cutting EDM to know the tell tale signs of the process. So the cosmetics in the jimping are processing leftover that is almost impossible to do away with since the EDM & Laser process both mess with the structure of the steel (high temperatures). The spot below the Spyderhole looks more like either a structural flaw in the steel that just happens to have been in the surfacing plane. Particle based steel tends to have this kind of stuff all over it.
WW
About that lanyard...
Hi Winston, I finally got admition onto these forums and wanted to let you know your pics helped me to decide on my new all black military.
One of the questions I have been waiting to ask you is how did you knot that lanyard? I have some spare para-cord lying around and would like to try and recreate it.
Thanks for the great pics.
-RFB
P.S. David Lowry please disregard my e-mail from earlier today, all has taken care of itself, and if you had anything to do with it thank you.
One of the questions I have been waiting to ask you is how did you knot that lanyard? I have some spare para-cord lying around and would like to try and recreate it.
Thanks for the great pics.
-RFB
P.S. David Lowry please disregard my e-mail from earlier today, all has taken care of itself, and if you had anything to do with it thank you.
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
- WinstonWolf
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 am
The Knott
RFB,
1st - disclaimer. The lanyard that is on my other Mili was done up by my dealer and I am not as skilled as he is with this stuff. That said this is a preaty easy knot that was repeated 3 times on the lanyard.
here are the tools you will need:
Para Cord (I am using 2 colors here to make it easier to see)
Sharp Knife (other than the one you are making the lanyard for)
Lighter
You start by burnishing the ends of your paracord so that they are not just a blob but a shaped tip You can see that at the end of the brown paracord. This will making step 2 a lot easier.
Continue by threading the paracord though the tube by the tip of the knife then it will be doubled up.
Balance the paracord out how ever you like but keep in mind that you need to start this with some excess so that you can cut it where you need to and also the process of tying the knots will make one line longer than the other.
Loop the paracord one over itself
Then one more loop as part of the original
Pull the cord semi taught, not so hard that the knott sets
Work the paracord so that the knot lines up clean on all aspects and then pull it taught
Lather, rinse, repeat.
when you are done adding knots to the line cut the paracord close to the last knot and burnish the two strands of paracord together and use the side of the knife handle or blade to flatten them out. Whatever you use will leave the negative impression on the melted paracord. A blade will leave a smooth finish, textured G-10 will leave a diamond like finish, etc.
WW
1st - disclaimer. The lanyard that is on my other Mili was done up by my dealer and I am not as skilled as he is with this stuff. That said this is a preaty easy knot that was repeated 3 times on the lanyard.
here are the tools you will need:
Para Cord (I am using 2 colors here to make it easier to see)
Sharp Knife (other than the one you are making the lanyard for)
Lighter
You start by burnishing the ends of your paracord so that they are not just a blob but a shaped tip You can see that at the end of the brown paracord. This will making step 2 a lot easier.
Continue by threading the paracord though the tube by the tip of the knife then it will be doubled up.
Balance the paracord out how ever you like but keep in mind that you need to start this with some excess so that you can cut it where you need to and also the process of tying the knots will make one line longer than the other.
Loop the paracord one over itself
Then one more loop as part of the original
Pull the cord semi taught, not so hard that the knott sets
Work the paracord so that the knot lines up clean on all aspects and then pull it taught
Lather, rinse, repeat.
when you are done adding knots to the line cut the paracord close to the last knot and burnish the two strands of paracord together and use the side of the knife handle or blade to flatten them out. Whatever you use will leave the negative impression on the melted paracord. A blade will leave a smooth finish, textured G-10 will leave a diamond like finish, etc.
WW