I just picked up a RAVEN about a week ago. I really like the knife. It is much bigger than I thought it would be and I really like the handle material and pattern.
Anyhow, the knife functions properly if I open it slowly, but if I open it with a flick of my wrist (even a soft flick), the liner lock really diggs in far and it is almost impossible to unlock. It basically goes all the way to the other side of the handle and digs into the corner. It takes the pressure from a screwdriver to get it unlocked and it is getting worse, now even if I open it normally. I have contacted CS but have not gotten a response yet. Does anyone else have this issue with the RAVEN / CROW liner lock knives?
Issue with Liner Lock on RAVEN
Huh, that's interesting. I have both a crow and a raven, and my father has a raven too, and none have this problem. In fact, I love to just flick them open and close them just for the fun of it.
Would it be something as simple as a loose pivot screw or loose scale screws? If they are all tight, I suppose you'd need to try to contact warranty and repair to get it fixed.
BTW, welcome!
Would it be something as simple as a loose pivot screw or loose scale screws? If they are all tight, I suppose you'd need to try to contact warranty and repair to get it fixed.
BTW, welcome!
Yeah, I love to flick it open too....really like this knife. It's nice to know that it is not a design flaw. thanks!
I will wait and see what CS says and hopefully be able to get it fixed or get a replacement. Everything is tight, so not sure what the issue is. Sounds like it's definately defective though.
How far does the liner lock on yours extend onto the tang? Half way? Mine goes all the way to the other side of the knife and gets jammed in the corner.
I will wait and see what CS says and hopefully be able to get it fixed or get a replacement. Everything is tight, so not sure what the issue is. Sounds like it's definately defective though.
How far does the liner lock on yours extend onto the tang? Half way? Mine goes all the way to the other side of the knife and gets jammed in the corner.
Both of the black byrds I have here have the lock stop about halfway across the thickness of the blade. I think my crow has moved a little since I got it, but I keep taking it apart and putting it together and I polished all the black off of the blade and scales, so maybe that has something to do with it.
It's definately not fun to have that happen though, I have had similar problems with the crappy knives I used to buy (BUDK sells knives that aren't really high quality, but dang they are cheap). Good Luck!
It's definately not fun to have that happen though, I have had similar problems with the crappy knives I used to buy (BUDK sells knives that aren't really high quality, but dang they are cheap). Good Luck!
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sublime422
- Member
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:07 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
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sublime422
- Member
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:07 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
Usually, when the lock bar finally moves all the way across to the far side of the tang it usually means the lock bar's tip has worn down. Sometimes it means the tip is dented because you flicked it open too hard, too many times... The typical fix is to replace the lock bar with an non-worn down one. Sometimes, people try to reduce the bend in the lock bar "to make it longer" & compensate for the wear.
Since your knife is new and has a relatively short blade (that doesn't generate the huge forces a larger blade does when flicked open really hard), I suspect that the .00x manufacturing tolerances just happen to be .00x smaller diameter for the tang, AND .00x shorter for the lockbar. Or, maybe the bend in the lockbar is just .00x more than standard...
In either case, reducing the curve in the lockbar a tiny bit will probably fix it. Since this involves disassembling the knife, you have to counterbalance voiding the warranty, with being without the knife while you wait for it to be repaired.
If you bend it too straight, then flicking it open hard a bunch of times will usually wear in the lockbar tip so it seats correctly. Ideally, the lockbar tip should sit between the edge of the tang (on the lockbar side) and middle of the tang.
Since your knife is new and has a relatively short blade (that doesn't generate the huge forces a larger blade does when flicked open really hard), I suspect that the .00x manufacturing tolerances just happen to be .00x smaller diameter for the tang, AND .00x shorter for the lockbar. Or, maybe the bend in the lockbar is just .00x more than standard...
In either case, reducing the curve in the lockbar a tiny bit will probably fix it. Since this involves disassembling the knife, you have to counterbalance voiding the warranty, with being without the knife while you wait for it to be repaired.
If you bend it too straight, then flicking it open hard a bunch of times will usually wear in the lockbar tip so it seats correctly. Ideally, the lockbar tip should sit between the edge of the tang (on the lockbar side) and middle of the tang.
Thank you for the posts. I am going to wait and see what spyerco CS says. The knife is too new (few days) for me to be taking it apart already. Hopefully they will reply to my email soon.
Sublime......I take it that your raven lock still goes all the way over to the side but it's just worn in enough that it doesn't stick anymore?
Sublime......I take it that your raven lock still goes all the way over to the side but it's just worn in enough that it doesn't stick anymore?
Well....2 emails later and still no reply from spyderco. This is turning out to be a disappointing experience.
I definately think the knife is defective.....all of the users on other forums did not seem to have this issue with the knife. It is getting worse too, now even when opening slowly the lock tends to move all the way over and jam.
Does anyone know the procedure for getting a knife fixed, replaced under warranty? And about how long it takes? I can't even get a response to answer these questions.
I definately think the knife is defective.....all of the users on other forums did not seem to have this issue with the knife. It is getting worse too, now even when opening slowly the lock tends to move all the way over and jam.
Does anyone know the procedure for getting a knife fixed, replaced under warranty? And about how long it takes? I can't even get a response to answer these questions.
I guess I can call, but that defeats the purpose of putting an email on the site as a way of contacting them.
Why are they so busy? Lots of defective stuff to process? hmmm???
They could at least respond telling me to call in with my information instead of just ignoring it. I think a lot of company's now a days really underestimate the importance of Customer Service. I am not trying to take this out on Spyderco, but it seems lately there has been poor service for everything I have needed to deal with.
I know if my company wasn't prompt with communication, we would be out of biz.
I don't know, I guess I expect too much.
Hopefully I will get a response soon. I really like the Raven and would like it to be fully operable again so I can carry it.
Why are they so busy? Lots of defective stuff to process? hmmm???
They could at least respond telling me to call in with my information instead of just ignoring it. I think a lot of company's now a days really underestimate the importance of Customer Service. I am not trying to take this out on Spyderco, but it seems lately there has been poor service for everything I have needed to deal with.
I know if my company wasn't prompt with communication, we would be out of biz.
I don't know, I guess I expect too much.
Hopefully I will get a response soon. I really like the Raven and would like it to be fully operable again so I can carry it.