What?Why?When....(Sharpening)

[Just say Yes]

Which sharpening method do you like to use most of the time? Sharpmaker, whetstones, diamond whetstones and so on....
Why do you like to use it? Does it have better advantages than the others in your case? Or just get to used to it after many many many hours of practice.....
Some steels to one sharpener and the other with the second? Long blades with different than the little blades?

Uh,......lots of questions here...... :confused:

I have only a small experience about Lansky system and I have a plan to get another. I don't feel too comfortable with my Lansky and IMO it won't be the best in every forthcoming situation. I only think about interesting :rolleyes: knives (kitchen, small :spyder: , long :spyder: , hawkbills, even swords...), not chisels or any other boring working tools

*thinking and compressing*
How many do I have to invest? :)

[jjmc2001]

The sharpmaker is one of the easiest methods to learn and set-up. I haven't used other methods since I have gotten proficient with the Sharpmaker and have used it on everything from the smallest knives to a large machete. The key with any sharpening task is to sharpen a knife before it gets dull. Using the basic Sharpmaker medium rods (brown) to bring a very dull knife back is a time consuming process. I invested in the diamond rods and they work great but I rarely use them becuse I just don't let things get that bad. I did use them on a Cold Stell machete that was really dinged up. Got that thing dangerously sharp in short order. There are many long threads about the Sharpmaker on this forum and at BladeForums. For the money it is a great system and comes with a video. I never watched the video-I just looked at the pictures in the book(included) and just started.

[gull wing]

I use Sharpmaker and Edge Pro.
Sharpmaker:
easy, low priced
I touch my knife/knives almost daily. It's easier to keep sharp than to get sharp after very dull.

Edge Pro:
Not low priced, but great for reprofileing after your knife gets dull. Sooner or later your knife will get too dull to touch up on the Sharpmaker. That is when you need to reprofile the edge. The Edge Pro is the best for me, it's easy and fast. I don't do this very often, don't need to.

I have tryed a lot of sharpening methods, this is the best for me. Some are good at using a bench stone and it works for them. Benchstones require a skill I don't have.

[The Deacon]

Benchstones. Been doing it that way for fifty odd years, so I'm fairly good at it. Plus I stick with the simple things, plain edge blades with either a straight or moderately convex curved edge, so it's not exactly brain surgery. Mostly use a medium and a fine grit, but do have a fairly coarse diamond one for dealing with serious cases of abuse or neglect. As far as size goes, have sharpened everything from #11 X-Acto blades to a 12" ham slicer that way. I get the stones out at least once a month.

Tried the Sharpmaker, but cannot seem to get the hang of it. Sometimes wonder if I just don't have anything to rest it on that puts it at a comfortable working height. Other times I just chalk it up to old dogs and new tricks.

[Axlis]

Sharpmaker and a stropping on an old belt works for me so far. I SUCK at free-handing on a benchstone, maybe one day I will take the time to practice :rolleyes: .

[GarageBoy]

[vampyrewolf]

Coming up on 17yrs of freehand experience...

Only had to bring out my 204 a few times in the last year, usually for touchups on serrations.

Much easier to bring out my benchstones and do 5min of work, or even my spydie doublestuff and an eraser for a quick touchup while I'm watching tv.

I can get a decent edge using a bench grinder if I need to set an edge, can even do passably with the sanding drums and my dremel. Benchstones are the way to go though for most work.

[spydutch]

Before I knew about Spyderco and the sharpmaker, I always sharpened my knives with various grits of sandpaper. Got the knives pretty sharp that way.
Back in my printing days, I was the "company sharper". Sometimes I had 4 to 5 knives form co workers lying on my working bench to make them sharp again.
I had 1 policy back then; if I saw even the slightest amount of ink on the edge, I didn't sharpen the knife anymore(there are scrapers for that) :D

Nowadays I only use the Sharpmaker

[Peter1960]

I use two systems:

Tormek (water cooled grinding, sharpening and honing system) - for very dull plain knifes
Sharpmaker (I guess it's well known) - to hold the edges sharp. The only one I use for serrations! In my sense the Sharpmaker is a "Sharpholder" :rolleyes:

[gordonk]

I'm used to "freehanding", so it can be anything from a benchstone, to DMT's, ceramic rods, sharpmaker rods and a belt sander. I use the Sharpie trick - works fine for what I do :)

- gord

[Mr Blonde]

I use the Sharpmaker, for me it's easy to learn and use well. It gets excellent results, polished, coarse, serrated edges whatever.

Wouter

[Just say Yes]

Thanks for the replies. It seems that I have to buy both sharpmaker and a pair of DMT's, just in case.
The Sharpmaker for easy way and DMT's for a challenge.

-Helps to relieve the boredom of the long winter evenings-

:) :spyder: :) :spyder: :) :spyder: :)

[Pukko]

:spyder: Pukko Talla Hey!

I think you can not beat a clasic Whetstone, followed by a leather strop.

Have fun and good luck, and as far as the :spyder: edge knives, I think you will want a Sharp maker...

Hey hey.

[GarageBoy]

For a classic oil stone, NORTON India

[d.g.g]

First I use the Sharpmaker.

Last (second) I use a strop/hone. I'm waiting for a Spyder hone to be released.

http://www.drsharpening.com/leatherhone.html

For serious steel removal when reprofiling I like my DMT 2"x6" x-course diamond whetstone. I rarely have a need to use it.

I have a neighbor that does his sharpening on his sidewalk edge. When I see him doing this I run over with my axe and machete and let him tough them up. Amazingly things comes out pretty sharp. When he really wants sharp he brings me the knife and one of the king of beers (I don't recommend too much of this combination or stitches will probably occur) and I use my stuff to give him an edge.

[JD Spydo]

Benchstones. Been doing it that way for fifty odd years, so I'm fairly good at it. Plus I stick with the simple things, plain edge blades with either a straight or moderately convex curved edge, so it's not exactly brain surgery. Mostly use a medium and a fine grit, but do have a fairly coarse diamond one for dealing with serious cases of abuse or neglect. As far as size goes, have sharpened everything from #11 X-Acto blades to a 12" ham slicer that way. I get the stones out at least once a month.

Tried the Sharpmaker, but cannot seem to get the hang of it. Sometimes wonder if I just don't have anything to rest it on that puts it at a comfortable working height. Other times I just chalk it up to old dogs and new tricks.

Deacon there was one thing that I did that really bolstered and fine tuned my Sharpmaker results. I found an old big C clamp with a little bigger than usual flat round jaws on it. I set my 204 Sharpmaker on a bench that I made with 3/4 inch marine plywood. Then I clamp ( but don't over-tighten) the 204 to the bench snuggly. I place the clamp jaw on the flat plateau of the unit where the stones set down in.

I have found that with the unit clamped down I can really put my full attention and leverage into the actual sharpening process. When you can pull the blade down along the stones with either both hands or have a super firm grip with one hand it really does make a difference.

I am in a way wondering why Spyderco doesn't add some kind of a makeshift clamp that could be included into the kit, Also I have also been beating the drum for them to put a really agressive coarse stone in the kit for really banged up blades which I think would speed up re-profiling. But trust me when you have the unit tightly secured it does make a vast difference. It did with me. I can really get a fantastic edge especially when finishing up with UF stones that you can buy extra. Bottom line>> securing the unit makes a big difference.

[Just say Yes]

Hey Pukko, sometimes visited in my cold country? :rolleyes:

Another questions for those who are familiar with benchstones:

I'm a right-handed and therefore it's easier to keep a handle in my right hand and a blade in my left hand and then stroke away from the body. Let's say this is the right edge
How about the left edge, do you take a handle to the left hand and a blade to the right hand and again stroke away from the body? Or always keep the handle in the right and vary strokes away the body(right edge) and towards body(left edge)?
How do you keep the edge angle correct? ...Just feel the good edge contact in your sensitive fingertips and hear the sound of processing.... :cool:

It could be better to try other blades first or I'll have a pack of worthless :spyder: 's in my hand. :confused: :o