Blade Preferences?

[SpyderEdgeForever]

While individual preferences vary with each knife model, what are some basic parameters and stats you prefer a folding knife or fixed blade to have, that you are comfortable with?
This can apply to Spyderco or any brand or company.

For me:
Folders:

Blade Thickness:
3.0 Millimeters and above

Blade Length:
3.0 to 3.9 inches
If in a place where I can carry longer blades that works.

Blade Shapes:

Reasonably wide but not like a spoon. I do not like stiletto width.
Endura width to spear points and leaf shapes. I do like recurves and scimitar curves.

Blade Grinds:
Saber, Flat, Full Flat, Hollow Saber, Convex and Appleseed grinds.

I do not like full hollow grinds or thicknesses under 3.0. Thicknesses in the 5.0 mm tend to be too thick. Except on shaving razors and Opinel and Moras are exceptions. Those have thinner than 3.0 but work well.

I kept it to blades here.

[Naperville]

Blade Thickness:
Depends on what the tool is to be used for.

Blade Length:
FOLDER: 3.75 to 5.0 inch blade. FIXED BLADE: the sweet spot for me is a 4.5 to 6.0 inch blade, but I have much shorter and much longer.

Blade Shapes:
Of Spyderco knives, I prefer the Spyderco Native Chief. It's almost all that I buy now. There are other brands that I have purchased Spartan Blades lg Harsey folder(too much belly up near the tip), Cold Steel XL folder(not great steels), Hinderer folder(very nice, but pricey).

Blade Height:
Reasonably wide. I do not like stilettos either, but I have a couple of fixed blades that are stilettos.

Blade Grinds and Patterns:
I do not get hung up on blade grinds, if it looks good / useful, I may buy it. For patterns I try to stick to a tool that can pierce and cut when used in a slashing motion. If it cannot pierce and cut, I try not to buy it.

Handle / Grip:
I like them really sticky. I like the one or two Emerson G-10 folders that I have due to their grips. I like FRN. I'm not sold on smooth titanium or non-aggressive G-10. Carbon fiber is OK, but nothing special to me because it is not grippy. Horn is too slick.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Great choices, Naperville

How do you like micarta as a handle material?
Like G10 it can depend on the quality.
I felt a very good micarta handle on a quality knife, it was good. A second one on a cheaper knife felt unfinished.

I see the Spyderco Native Chief fits well into your choices.

[Ramonade]

Many, many things can interest me. I'll just talk about folders though.

But the bee's knees are edges with a continuous, very wide, radius . Or a flat near the heel that turns into a wide radius. That brings the tip down and it's infinitely more useful for me !
The tip position (and acuteness depending on the application) is the most important, if the blade's offer an easy to access tip while cutting (as to not have to bring my arm up too much), I can be happy with a very wide range of designs. Even crazy double grind recurve fork with flames on the side.

Blade length is the same, I've used the Grasshoper as much as the Native Chief. But when I make knives, even if I draw them "big" or "small", I end up with something around the 3.25".

Blade stock thickness can be anything from 2mm to 4mm. 4mm needs either an acute flat grind or a deep and high hollow grind. Cutting geometry above everything. I only cut with my folders.

It's funny you mention blade height @Naperville. In France there's many people used to folders having a Laguiole/Opinel height. I prefer a reasonnably high blade too, to let the grind do it's thing. And as to being able to sharpen it for decades (if things are done right).

Handle material : Anything that is durable. Not things like mammoth molar. There's Mammoth pulp that is way more durable and can survive drops, even if it's mostly because I find mammoth molar ugly. I love woods like Koa, Arizona Ironwood and Ringed Gidgee. I love grippy micarta, with the fabric slightly exposed by the finish used. Titanium is good too. Lately I've been enjoying Warthog tusk and stag as a handle material.

[Aladinsane]

2-3mm thick

2.5- 3” in length

Leaf shape

Flat ground

Finger choil or handle fwd preferred.

[Naperville]

Great choices, Naperville

How do you like micarta as a handle material?
Like G10 it can depend on the quality.
I felt a very good micarta handle on a quality knife, it was good. A second one on a cheaper knife felt unfinished.

I see the Spyderco Native Chief fits well into your choices.

The Spyderco Native Chief in Cruwear is Micarta and I like it(have 2!) and it is beautiful, a definite safe queen! I don't want to get it dirty, hahahahaha! I take it out and marvel at it. I love well made products. I carry my Spyderco Native Chiefs in S110V(have 2) and Magnacut(have 5; 4 PE and 1 SE). The FRN works for me.

[Naperville]

Many, many things can interest me. I'll just talk about folders though.

But the bee's knees are edges with a continuous, very wide, radius . Or a flat near the heel that turns into a wide radius. That brings the tip down and it's infinitely more useful for me !
The tip position (and acuteness depending on the application) is the most important, if the blade's offer an easy to access tip while cutting (as to not have to bring my arm up too much), I can be happy with a very wide range of designs. Even crazy double grind recurve fork with flames on the side.

Blade length is the same, I've used the Grasshoper as much as the Native Chief. But when I make knives, even if I draw them "big" or "small", I end up with something around the 3.25".

Blade stock thickness can be anything from 2mm to 4mm. 4mm needs either an acute flat grind or a deep and high hollow grind. Cutting geometry above everything. I only cut with my folders.

It's funny you mention blade height @Naperville. In France there's many people used to folders having a Laguiole/Opinel height. I prefer a reasonnably high blade too, to let the grind do it's thing. And as to being able to sharpen it for decades (if things are done right).

Handle material : Anything that is durable. Not things like mammoth molar. There's Mammoth pulp that is way more durable and can survive drops, even if it's mostly because I find mammoth molar ugly. I love woods like Koa, Arizona Ironwood and Ringed Gidgee. I love grippy micarta, with the fabric slightly exposed by the finish used. Titanium is good too. Lately I've been enjoying Warthog tusk and stag as a handle material.

"the bee's knees are edges with a continuous, very wide, radius" AGREE! It's got to pierce and open the cavity and a gradual radius is good for my needs too.

Wood can be grippy when dry but I am worried about liquids on the handle. Give me coarse sandpaper. I don't care about my pockets and I'd rather patch the pant pocket or just buy new jeans.

[Naperville]

2-3mm thick

2.5- 3” in length

Leaf shape

Flat ground

Finger choil or handle fwd preferred.

Short blades work, I have a few.

[Aladinsane]

2-3mm thick

2.5- 3” in length

Leaf shape

Flat ground

Finger choil or handle fwd preferred.

Short blades work, I have a few.

Indeed! Of course, everone’s use case is different, and shorter blades work best for me. I have a couple of fixed blades knives with 4.25” blades, and that’s really more than I need.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Ramonade, I am so glad you are here on this forum, friend! I am learning new things from your posts. Thank you.

The mammoth materials I have wondered about. I heard that unlike fresh ivory which is banned from sale because poachers killing the precious elephants and rhinos, mammoth and fossil walrus material is allowed?

Are you familiar with African Rosewood called Bubinga? EKA of Sweden and many American and European makers have used it for handles.

I like Olive Wood.

[Coastal]

Blade shape: My favorites are Bowie and Persian, but that's mainly for aesthetics. Of the more practical shapes, I like a traditional clip point the best, with the Spyderco "clip point," a la Delica/Endura/Military a close second.

Blade stock: I never need a folder blade thicker than 2.5 mm. 3 is okay. To me, more than that is a little gimmicky but can be cool, as in the Techno. For a fixed blade, 3-4mm is fine. I can see uses for a thicker blade, but they're not my uses.

Grind: I'm open to anything except Scandi, which I don't have a use case for. I like high hollow the best, but most of my knives are flat. I'm also partial to the Pacific Salt's hollow saber grind.

Edge: I seldom use a serrated knife for anything other than yard work, fishing, or culinary. I like a coarse plain edge, 200-400 grit, and I don't obsess over it.

Length: Despite average-sized hands, I like larger knives. 3.5-4 is great for folders. Fixed blades I prefer 5-6 inches. You didn't ask about handles, but I'll say I like them on the long side, and hand-filling. I'm fine with pretty much any scale material other than black G-10. Ti is probably my favorite, but for practical use it's really hard to beat FRN.

[Coastal]

Double