Sage 5 in REX 121 + burnt orange

[Jeb]

I like to use a light pressure on my DMT diamond hones with mine and let the diamonds cut the edge on mine.

I get a more accurate angle with the lighter touch on these harder steels. Least it seems to for me, but I am weird lol...

[Evil D]

I like to use a light pressure on my DMT diamond hones with mine and let the diamonds cut the edge on mine.

I get a more accurate angle with the lighter touch on these harder steels. Least it seems to for me, but I am weird lol...

On some steels if you use too much pressure you end up fracturing the edge/burr off and you end up in a neverending cycle where you're grinding steel off, you get lots of steel dust, but you never reach an apex. I learned this the hard way with ZDP-189.

[BeggarSo]

I need to get mine out and use it more. I've reprofiled it, I really didn't think it was any more difficult to grind/sharpen than S110V or Maxamet. Diamonds tend to level the playing field a lot.

I used PDTOOLS silver bonded CBN and it took longer for a reprofile than S30V, S45VN and was pretty similar to S110V but different better you can always feel when you are really into the steel after breaking the skin and by then you are nearly done.

Very doable you just need good abrasives.

[Wowbagger]

I like to use a light pressure on my DMT diamond hones with mine and let the diamonds cut the edge on mine.

I get a more accurate angle with the lighter touch on these harder steels. Least it seems to for me, but I am weird lol...

Mostly I agree .
I have to say that in the past , while trying to cut A LOT of material off relatively soft ( A2 ) woodworking plane blades to flatten the backs and change the bevel angle SHALLOWER I literally put the DMT stone on the floor and put as much body weight on it as I could and never "damaged" or "wore out " the stones . ( I just did not have access to what I needed to do this task so I had to work what I had hard ).

I think the reason many "strip" the diamonds off a plate is they are anglinng the edge down into the stone at too steep an angle . Or they are inferior diamond stones .

Flattening and bevel changing took FOR EVER.
I now use a hunk of 36 to 60 grit sander belt double back taped to a surface plate / tile .

After fifteen years or so I still have that "extra coarse" DMT and use it to flatten all my sharpening stones . it would still sharpen a knife free hand just not reprofile quick.
See image in next post .

Here is the main thing I was wanting to get at . Cliff Stamp talking about : the harder the steel the more downward force you need or can use . The softer the steel the less force is needed .
And why .

Sure , sure as I get to finer and finer grits I use less force . I use many grits always so I cut away the scratches to a fine apex .

[Wowbagger]

Here is a stolen image of the DMT Extra Coarse stone I put way too much force on and all these years later still use it to flatten all but my diamond stones

[Jeb]

Here is a stolen image of the DMT Extra Coarse stone I put way too much force on and all these years later still use it to flatten all but my diamond stones

17698146353937446193963607396435.jpg

Oh, heck I don't use that type of DMT. I use the steel bars that have the diamonds just on the surface. I have a couple like yours and after honing trigger parts and slide and frames of pistols over the years have seen those wear in and not stay so flat.

So I changed to the steel bars in plates. Here is a pic of mine and a cheap holder that helps, but could be better with more weight to it. These are the 3"X8" size...

[Wowbagger]

Just reprofiled / knocked back the shoulders on 2 , count 'em 2 , Siren S90V blades in about forty five minutes including setting up and cleaning up and putting away my Edge Pro Apex . Just reprofiled with the one stone not sharpened .

Used Gritomatic Venev Orion Series Bonded 80 grit FEPA-F (180 micron) Diamond stone
Use a fair amount of force ; very firm with it .

The stone was not slowing down for the second blade. I am very happy with this stone for High Vanadium hard blades ! ! !
Washed off swarf from stone very frequently in kitchen sink.

Originally the blades were like 0.024 inch just behind the sharpening bevels , which were already pretty wide so measured a ways up the blade away from the edge.

Right behind the edge was like 0.016 inch.

Not bad but since the blade is not very wide / tall it was not slicing as well as I knew it could . Edge practically new from factory ; a little serious use on both , sharp but not cutting the way I am used to with my edges .

Will update when I get around to final sharpening (polished edge like the 121 above) . Had to give up the kitchen to "The Chef" .
Good things always happen if I do that .

[Wowbagger]

Here is a stolen image of the DMT Extra Coarse stone I put way too much force on and all these years later still use it to flatten all but my diamond stones

17698146353937446193963607396435.jpg

Oh, heck I don't use that type of DMT. I use the steel bars that have the diamonds just on the surface. I have a couple like yours and after honing trigger parts and slide and frames of pistols over the years have seen those wear in and not stay so flat.

So I changed to the steel bars in plates. Here is a pic of mine and a cheap holder that helps, but could be better with more weight to it. These are the 3"X8" size...

Very nice !
I have three of those as well . For hogging off , of stones or off of steel I like the ones with holes ; gets the swarf out of the way if there is a lot of it .

If you have good ones of the full coverage ones feel lucky . From the reviews in the last couple of years of what they are producing now they have micro piles of diamonds all over them and scratch the heck out of things to be run on them .

[Wowbagger]

could be better with more weight to it.

For my uses ; I have concurred that TO DA MAX !

Completely different approach . I use it with my Japanese water stones , Norton water stones , all the big bench style diamond plates , you name it .

=
formica counters are pretty flat due to the press board under them being VERY FLAT .
On top of the Formica I put down a mat of industrial grade solid neoprene rubber (not foam) . The mat is about 5mm thick (maybe only 1/8 inch) some thing like that . Can get this stuff off a roll where they sell industrial bearings and hydraulic hose etc .

There is an edge to the counter that is not waved (you know the round boarder most counters have so things don't roll off) .
First I put some drops of water down on the counter , then a few drops on the underside of the mat to go against the counter .

Lay the mat down and slowly slide it back and forth and the mat will suck down and LOCK as if it were glued there . It will stay like this for hours unless you get too much water all around the edge of the mat .

Do the same with the stone . A few drops of water , slide back and forth a half inch or so until it sucks down .
Veola !

I put the edge of the stone next to the square drop off of the counter so I have room for my hands to hold the blade . I have taught my self to be fairly ambidextrous can sharpen or hammer with both hands .

If that's not clear I might dig up an image . I don't even own a stone holder except the one or two old stones I have with a holder permanently glued to them .

PS : demonstrates what one of my wise old engineer bosses used to say :
The simplest solution is the hardest to arrive at .

[Wowbagger]

I'm thinking I didn''t make it clear how big the mat is; not just for under the stone (might slip around when water gets around edge ) . . . nahhhh a BIG mat so it holds and will also protect the counter .

I hadn't had those diamond stones on the right out in some time ; I forgot they each have six rubber feet under them but the mat still helps hold them .

another image after this one is coming . . .

[/url]

[Wowbagger]

as promised

[BeggarSo]

For the love of God Jim ( think Dr. McCoy ) upgrade that stove then you will see some really good things from the chef!

[Jeb]

I like the idea of yours with the rubber mat. May have to give that a go here. The hone holder I got has rubber feet but it even scoots around on a glass top desk I setup to hone things on if I bare down on the blade much. I like my 1/4" glass top desk as it's pretty flat.

My hone bars are getting pretty old now and have been nice and even coated, that is disturbing to hear they are questionable nowadays. Figures though. The stuff now I guess you really need to do your homework on before buying. Thanks for the heads up on that.

[Wowbagger]

Originally the blades were like 0.024 inch just behind the sharpening bevels , which were already pretty wide so measured a ways up the blade away from the edge.

Right behind the edge was like 0.016 inch.

Not bad but since the blade is not very wide / tall it was not slicing as well as I knew it could . Edge practically new from factory ; a little serious use on both , sharp but not cutting the way I am used to with my edges .

Will update when I get around to final sharpening (polished edge like the 121 above)

OK is now mirror and whittling .

One thing I changed was I just got a 9 micron diamond film on blank and put that between the 15 Micron Matrix and the 4 Micron Matrix ( I think that was a good idea ) before this I was just doing a lot of passes with the 4 or sneaking in one of those short Aligner stones (green , 9 micron) on a blank . A PITA because it was easy to run off the ends of the short stone .

The Siren S90V was easy to debur on the stones and films . I stropped it on the Edge Pro on new cowhide finish side & 1 micron diamond but there was no visible bur before I stropped it .

Blade thickness above the line of the wide (wider than they were due to reprofiling ) sharpening bevels stayed in the neighborhood of 0.025 inch
but
right behind the edge is now down to 0.008 inch .
Might have over did it there .
When and if the edge gets beat up in use I will add a micro bevel a degree or so less acute .

[Wowbagger]

For the love of God Jim ( think Dr. McCoy ) upgrade that stove then you will see some really good things from the chef!

aaaaahhhh shucks .
We just don't know no better.
The Chef is daily following other cooks on line and conversing with them . Mostly Japanese but some in Italy . She has never wished for a diffeent stove .

Turn it on and it makes stuff hot . . . turn it down and it turns down .
I baked a couple dozen chocolate chip cookies recently . . . seemed to be cookie like when I was done .



Reminds me of a moment at work . Some how a woman got interested in watching me work (she wasn't hitting on me ).
I said Hi .
She said : I think it is remarkable that you have all those tools (quite a lot of things hanging on the walls rather than put away) and you know what all of them are for and how to use them .

I held up a good sized ball peen hammer and said : yeh but when you get REALLY GOOD all you need is this , but I ain't that good yet .
She said : I usually use a rock .

I wouldn't have minded taking that one home ; smart / quick person !
Chef says no more allowed / just her .
Apparently Chef has reached the point where she only needs "a ball peen hammer" .

[Jeb]

"I wouldn't have minded taking that one home ; smart / quick person !
Chef says no more allowed / just her .
Apparently Chef has reached the point where she only needs "a ball peen hammer" . "

I just love this quote. We resemble this around here too. Our kitchen we both just hate, but it works. It only works with just one of us in it at any one given time too...

We do have the electric all ceramic top, which is really easy to keep clean but, that's the only good thing about it lol.

[BeggarSo]

Lol yeah the last coil stove I had wound up at the recycling center it was so bad I slung it out of the back of my truck with both hands, it hi the pave.ent rolled once or twice and came to a crumpled stop it was so mangled looking it put a smile on my face and I took a picture.

This was a stove present in a house I was renting after a divorce, and later bought. I replaced it with a glass top hidden coil stove, it sucked, I had to teach myself how to cook, and anything and everything burns on those glass tops again sucks!

Electrical issues fried it, good riddance that was my learning stove the oven was also destroyed following bad internet receipes using 450 to 475 bake temps uh yeah, no.

Latest is an induction stove best of the 3 still wish gas was available they are still the best way to go.

In other words use a rock or in this case flame.

Whenever I want to grill a steak I use a gas hob just one burner hooked to a 20 lb propane canister get my cast iron pan screaming hot then cook again back to the hammer or the rock.

So many things are like that even sharpeners, Lately with knives I have been using Nanohone resin impregnated strops can use them dry and they work great.

No need to reprofile once the apex is in. As BBB says you need diamond or CBN for the metals we pocket Aluma Ceramic just cant get the job done it burnishes which I maintain has its place but no way you can really set an edge with it.

With the Nano hone strops and Truers I can set my edge aggression one way one day a different way the next pretty cool how it works.

This also holds true with REX 121 to include my Sage 5, sure it's super hard but not really you just need the right abrasives. The sharpmaker is not really a tool for this steel.