Polishing Crucarta Scales
Polishing Crucarta Scales
Has anyone tried to polish their crucarta canvas scales? I’m not a fan of the stock dry and rough texture and i think micarta looks way better polished as well. i hate how grimy/gross the stock scales end up looking as well with use. I would be interested to see any pictures and learn about what methods to use to do this.
Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
I simply coated the green canvas micarta on a Bark River ULB with boiled linseed oil (or was it tung oil?) and it completely changed the texture and the look and feel. Any drying oil should do the trick.
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- kennethsime
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Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
I really like my OG Z-Carta Shaman scales, and wish the other Crucarta knives had the same kind of finish.
I think you want a buffing wheel and some white compound, according to some folks in the Bark River Knives facebook group. I haven't tried myself yet, but would probably start by removing the scales.
I think you want a buffing wheel and some white compound, according to some folks in the Bark River Knives facebook group. I haven't tried myself yet, but would probably start by removing the scales.
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
- WilliamMunny
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Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
Cool idea, never thought of it.
The show side of mine, that sits against my body in my pocket it now much darker, I am guessing from moisture.
The show side of mine, that sits against my body in my pocket it now much darker, I am guessing from moisture.
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- Manixguy@1994
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Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
Anyone have pics of polishing Micarta projects ? MG2
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Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I was thinking some fine sandpaper and some polishing compound. I don’t really have any experience polishing synthetics. I was thinking to do any sanding in a bucket of water.
- kennethsime
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Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
Wet sanding is definitely a good idea. Alternatively, I bet you could just wet the micarta down in an area with good ventilation (outside) and maybe wear a respirator.
In terms of health exposure, I think it's one thing to sand micarta once as a weekend project, and another to do this 40 hours a week.
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
Bump. Wanted to ask same question. Nobody has pics?
Current collection: Lil Temperance G10, Shaman, Lil Native, Massad Ayoob cruwear, Smock, Street Beat, Street Bowie, Para 3, PM2 purple G10 cruwear, Canis, Rhino, Endura 4 K390, Watu, Kapara, Amalgam, Sliverax, Police 4 se K390, Police 4 pe K390, Khukuri, Barong, Ulize, Microjimbo, Smock M4, Lil Temperance 3 K390, Bodacious PE S30V, Lil' Temperance 3 SE, JD Smith PE ATS-34, Sage 6 S30V, Native Chief cruwear.
Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
I used Micarta for most knives I’ve made, never wore a mask but I did have a dust collecting system on all my grinders and sander. Never used G10 due to the fiberglass content. Micarta always polished up nicely on my buffers, took on a good gloss that had really good grip even when wet. My personal favorite is paper Micarta, it just has that quality look and feel that last the life of the knife.
Whatever turns you on, cupcake.
Still plays with knives…
Still plays with knives…
Re: Polishing Crucarta Scales
I apologize for the long post.
I make the occasional knife scales for blades. Amateur only. Mostly out of wood and micarta. I occasionally use G10, but try to avoid it. If I explain my process of shaping scales, it may give you a better understanding of what happens.
The blank blocks of micarta you start with can sometimes be polished on a surface to show you what it can look like finished. Once you start the project it is roughed up. When you get the shape you want, then you start going up the finer grades of wet and dry paper to achieve the level of smoothness. Generally once I have done the bulk of the work with a sanding belt, I then hand sand starting with 220 grit and move pretty quickly to 400 grit. Depending on the desired finish, I can stop sanding there and put the scales on the soft polishing wheel to finish them. Alternatively I can progress up through to 1500 grit and sometimes 2000 grit, depending on the project. By that stage the scales (regardless of material) have a pretty high polish. If I want them to shine, I put the scales on a green compound on a soft polishing wheel on my bench grinder. Then I buff that off on a soft wheel with no compound. You can stop there and you will have a shiny set of scales (Spyderco look like they do that with the burlap micarta on the Knife Center s90v Kapara). Over time they will dull with use, but are easy shined up by a quick buff.
Lastly on a higher polished set of scales I apply a thin coat of tru-oil. It is easier to once a year or so reapply to keep the scales looking shiny. It also keeps contamination out but still has a warm feel. Any fast drying oil works, like danish or boiled linseed will work fine.
The beauty is, if you think it is too smooth, give the scales a light rub over with sand paper to rough it back up.
Just remember, every time you sand, you are taking material off.
The photo is of a knife I did for a friend. She works on a cattle station (ranch) and wanted a small fixed blade and picked the materials and finish. The blade blank is a Brisa (can’t remember the model). Scales are black linen micarta with red G10 liners. Stainless Corby bolts and lanyard tube.
I make the occasional knife scales for blades. Amateur only. Mostly out of wood and micarta. I occasionally use G10, but try to avoid it. If I explain my process of shaping scales, it may give you a better understanding of what happens.
The blank blocks of micarta you start with can sometimes be polished on a surface to show you what it can look like finished. Once you start the project it is roughed up. When you get the shape you want, then you start going up the finer grades of wet and dry paper to achieve the level of smoothness. Generally once I have done the bulk of the work with a sanding belt, I then hand sand starting with 220 grit and move pretty quickly to 400 grit. Depending on the desired finish, I can stop sanding there and put the scales on the soft polishing wheel to finish them. Alternatively I can progress up through to 1500 grit and sometimes 2000 grit, depending on the project. By that stage the scales (regardless of material) have a pretty high polish. If I want them to shine, I put the scales on a green compound on a soft polishing wheel on my bench grinder. Then I buff that off on a soft wheel with no compound. You can stop there and you will have a shiny set of scales (Spyderco look like they do that with the burlap micarta on the Knife Center s90v Kapara). Over time they will dull with use, but are easy shined up by a quick buff.
Lastly on a higher polished set of scales I apply a thin coat of tru-oil. It is easier to once a year or so reapply to keep the scales looking shiny. It also keeps contamination out but still has a warm feel. Any fast drying oil works, like danish or boiled linseed will work fine.
The beauty is, if you think it is too smooth, give the scales a light rub over with sand paper to rough it back up.
Just remember, every time you sand, you are taking material off.
The photo is of a knife I did for a friend. She works on a cattle station (ranch) and wanted a small fixed blade and picked the materials and finish. The blade blank is a Brisa (can’t remember the model). Scales are black linen micarta with red G10 liners. Stainless Corby bolts and lanyard tube.