Military 2 Discussion (Merged)

[SAF-1]

Magnacut Plz !!!

[ErikLee]

I just watched a video of a guy testing the HRC of 2 same model/same steel (Magnacut) knives, one being clean (satin) steel and the other DLC coated. The DLC blade gave a lower HRC rating than the satin blade and the guy claimed that a lot of heat is involved the process of applying the DLC which messes with the original heat treatment of the knife.

This worries me a bit as I'm really looking forward to the recently announced black Magnacut Military 2. Does anyone here have both the satin and black DLC PM 2 Salt Magnacut knives ans has some experience on their differences in performance?

[ejames13]

I just watched a video of a guy testing the HRC of 2 same model/same steel (Magnacut) knives, one being clean (satin) steel and the other DLC coated. The DLC blade gave a lower HRC rating than the satin blade and the guy claimed that a lot of heat is involved the process of applying the DLC which messes with the original heat treatment of the knife.

This worries me a bit as I'm really looking forward to the recently announced black Magnacut Military 2. Does anyone here have both the satin and black DLC PM 2 Salt Magnacut knives ans has some experience on their differences in performance?

Can you share the video?

[Deadboxhero]

I just watched a video of a guy testing the HRC of 2 same model/same steel (Magnacut) knives, one being clean (satin) steel and the other DLC coated. The DLC blade gave a lower HRC rating than the satin blade and the guy claimed that a lot of heat is involved the process of applying the DLC which messes with the original heat treatment of the knife.

This worries me a bit as I'm really looking forward to the recently announced black Magnacut Military 2. Does anyone here have both the satin and black DLC PM 2 Salt Magnacut knives ans has some experience on their differences in performance?

Portable leeb hardness testing doesn't count for reasons already discussed at length.
viewtopic.php?t=97328&hilit=Leeb+tester


Those videos are for entertainment only regardless of what the producer of the videos says.

Of course, that can change if he has an epiphany and upgrades his hardness testing equipment and methods but he vehemently has entrenched his "beliefs" in using the wrong tool for the job so that is unlikely.

Remember, It's the Internet, there is nothing stopping people from sharing bad information, bad data and saying whatever is necessary to drive clicks.

Critical thinking is key.

[TCW]

I just watched a video of a guy testing the HRC of 2 same model/same steel (Magnacut) knives, one being clean (satin) steel and the other DLC coated. The DLC blade gave a lower HRC rating than the satin blade and the guy claimed that a lot of heat is involved the process of applying the DLC which messes with the original heat treatment of the knife.

This worries me a bit as I'm really looking forward to the recently announced black Magnacut Military 2. Does anyone here have both the satin and black DLC PM 2 Salt Magnacut knives ans has some experience on their differences in performance?

YouTube videos are great entertainment but lack the controlled variables attributed to scientific methodology. For instance, comparing the HRC of two different blades is not equivalent to testing a singular blade before and after a DLC coating. There will always be a standard of deviation contributed to the manufacturing process as well as from the test equipment itself.

[phaust]

I just watched a video of a guy testing the HRC of 2 same model/same steel (Magnacut) knives, one being clean (satin) steel and the other DLC coated. The DLC blade gave a lower HRC rating than the satin blade and the guy claimed that a lot of heat is involved the process of applying the DLC which messes with the original heat treatment of the knife.

This worries me a bit as I'm really looking forward to the recently announced black Magnacut Military 2. Does anyone here have both the satin and black DLC PM 2 Salt Magnacut knives ans has some experience on their differences in performance?

Kunwu also tested this (and uses a lot of "fancy" steels). They found it did drop it but enough under 1 point that they didn't have to change the hardness range they advertise, which is a two point range.

So if you're okay with the ranges as they are, even with the same heat treat protocol for costed and uncoated, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're absolutely trying to maximize the steel, uncoated will harder (but then probably custom is the real way to go, not factory, if you're trying to absolutely maximize the steel for your use).

[sal]

Hi TCW,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[barnaclesonaboat]

Ok, so my 15V Military2 came this week and... I'm smitten. It's nuts how purposeful this design feels in hand and also displays in use, and the addition of super hard tool steel is just a dream come true. It may be some time before this rig is unseated as the new 'favorite', although I'll admit I haven't committed to office-carrying it yet, ha.

I came here to share a pic of a peculiar alignment in the M2 that I saw only when I when to swap the clip position. It turns out the tip aligns very satisfyingly in the middle/top clip screw hole. The unexpected alignment made my brain feel good for a moment, then I installed a freshly ruined/flame-colored/burned clip to tone down the chrome (I still need to take some of ya'lls advice on here and flame my clips slower for better color...)

[Mrj]

(Merged thread)
Salute to the Military

[vivi]

any advice for lock stick?

took apart my dlc s30v daily carry. cleaned it, lubed it, etc.

feels better than before in every way but now it has lock stick, while it never did before.

not a big deal but id like to get rid of it if I can easily do so.

any advice?

[Evil D]

any advice for lock stick?

took apart my dlc s30v daily carry. cleaned it, lubed it, etc.

feels better than before in every way but now it has lock stick, while it never did before.

not a big deal but id like to get rid of it if I can easily do so.

any advice?

My S30V version is sticky too, not the worst I've seen but it's there. I also got 2 of the 15V, one is smooth as silk and one has a wee bit of lock stick but less than the S30V so that's the one I've decided to use and abuse.

My past experiences say it gets better over time. I've had some success on other knives with rotating the stop pin but it didn't help with my S30V version.

This sounds like I'm defending the issue but I do think lock stick is potentially a good thing when you think about it in terms of how tight the lock is engaged. It seems like it's that much less likely to unlock or move during harder use. I think this is especially true for liner and frame locks.

[SpeedHoles]

any advice for lock stick?

took apart my dlc s30v daily carry. cleaned it, lubed it, etc.

feels better than before in every way but now it has lock stick, while it never did before.

not a big deal but id like to get rid of it if I can easily do so.

any advice?

To me that means the faces (blade tang to liner tab face) aren't as parallel as ideal (creating more of a wedge situation). Usually I've seen that from blade swapping and production variance between batches/finishing. But even with the same parts reassembled I guess it's quite possible if everything isn't tightened down quite as square as when it was originally finalized than it would end in a similar result.
I'd give it another trial and error reassembly, maybe shift liner fully one way, reassemble, see how it is, then try again, shift liner fully opposite, try again. Note if any improvement in either attempt. And when I say shifting, more like clocking around pivot, it'll probably be imperceivable. If no change, deal with it and ride out the wear-in long game.
It also could be a lube thing on the interface, creating an overtravel situation.

[Mrj]

any advice for lock stick?

took apart my dlc s30v daily carry. cleaned it, lubed it, etc.

feels better than before in every way but now it has lock stick, while it never did before.

not a big deal but id like to get rid of it if I can easily do so.

any advice?

My S30V version is sticky too, not the worst I've seen but it's there. I also got 2 of the 15V, one is smooth as silk and one has a wee bit of lock stick but less than the S30V so that's the one I've decided to use and abuse.

My past experiences say it gets better over time. I've had some success on other knives with rotating the stop pin but it didn't help with my S30V version.

This sounds like I'm defending the issue but I do think lock stick is potentially a good thing when you think about it in terms of how tight the lock is engaged. It seems like it's that much less likely to unlock or move during harder use. I think this is especially true for liner and frame locks.

This is all true. I have noticed with disassembling a ton of knives it is more the body screws than the pivot screw. Stop pins are finicky too. Sometimes I think it’s because not all metal pieces are machined exactly the same. (In tolerances of course) just a tad different or even seated more/less. Imo if adjusting body screws, stop pin, and some lube don’t help, then use is the only option. I have a DLT tan Yojimbo 2 that never got better with anything. To this day it still sticks bad. Hopefully you situation is better. This was a one off case of like hundreds of knives.

[ejames13]

Received my 15v Military today. I tried the Millie 2 in SPY-27, and sold it because I preferred the Millie 1. However, wanted to give it another shot, especially with this steel.

Bevels are okay. Not great, but not terrible. The lock stick, however, is probably the worst I've had on any compression lock Spyderco. Haven't bought a brand new Spyderco in a while, so this was pretty disappointing. My experience has been that it's a roll of the dice whether you're going to get lock stick or not. Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it doesn't. One of the main reasons I prefer the liner lock of the Millie 1.

[vivi]

Interesting. I don't recall many people posting they prefer the 1. Is it due to lock preference for you?

hopefully you and me both get our lock stick squared away. I've had good luck with comp locks, but cbbl has been hit or miss. sold off my 4v manix xl because after a year of use the strong lock stick hadn't improved.

should be getting micarta scales for my 15V by march. im excited for them.

[Cycletroll]

Currently I prefer the Mille 1 but I'm trying to be open minded :)

[JSumm]

I still think I prefer the lock of the Millie 1, but everything else I prefer the 2. Love the tip up and the slimmed down handle. If they ever create a choiless Bodacious style Military it may be over. Keep the blade the same size. Honestly, I have carried little more than the Bodacious and Millie 2 for the last few months. Really difficult to carry anything else.

[Snacktime]

Just got my 15V Military 2 and it has the edge grind issues that if find disappointing for a $200+ dollar knife. Grind is a hair off center at the choil and the edge is off center enough that it I noticed it straight out of the box. The milling on one side of the blade has a section that I can still see the machining lines for like a 1/4" at a random spot.

Love the access to the liner lock, huge improvement for my hand size. I do find that I am missing the milling on the lock as indicator my finger is in the right spot. Mine has some mild lock stick that seems to be clearing up fast. Came with the loosest pivot I have ever gotten from the factory.

I bought this one to carry so not super irritated with the blade but this is 2nds quality. A collector would not be happy with the blade on this one. Been almost 2 years since I bought my last Spyderco and this really didn't ignite the old flame.

[gk4ever2]

Interesting. I don't recall many people posting they prefer the 1. Is it due to lock preference for you?
...

I slightly prefer the Millie 1, mainly due to the liner lock being easier (for me) to disengage. I also prefer the flat part of the M1 blade that is even with the grips, where your thumb goes when the knife is open (I’m not sure why this was changed on the M2).

Lock stick is annoying & disappointing on knives that cost this much. I have a CF/S90V Native Chief that was so bad the back lock often would not release. First I lubricated the knife, which did not help much. Eventually I loosened all screws, and then tightened all but the pivot screws just snug. I have repeatedly tried loosening/tightening the pivot screws, but the blade will not stay centered unless the pivot screws are tightened to the point where it is then difficult to open. At least the lock stick is fixed.

[Brock O Lee]

I also still prefer the M1 slightly. Small things like:
- broad curved clip melts into the hand
- good chamfering on the handle
- smooth back with no compression lock cutout hot spot.

But the M2 is a good evolution, based on the winning formula of the PM2.