Your thoughts on the MT leather sheath?

[Hatuletoh]

For anyone who's used one, how do you like the mule team leather sheath? As the upcoming HIC mule will not fit the standard Boltaron sheath, I was considering purchasing one of the leather ones rather than the HIC mule-specific Boltaron model, my thought being that maybe I'd rather have a sheath that could be used to carry other mules rather than one which will only work for the MT40 blade. On the other hand, hanging leather sheaths are definitely not my preferred carry method--I've used the standard Boltaron sheath for all previous MT purchases. So if anyone has the leather sheath, how do you like it? How is the retention? Are you able to move at a jog or light run without the blade falling out? How far does the sheath hang down from you belt? There are no measurements given on the website, but it looks like is sheath is fairly long so that a mule sits rather deep with only part of the handle was exposed. Am I seeing that right? Any thoughts/opinions/info you can give in the next approximately 23 hours will be appreciated.

[VandymanG]

For my Mules I use the leather sheath. My first sheath was the boltaron sheath. I also got the G10 scales for that knife. I found that I didn’t like the width of the Boltaron sheath and the feel of the G10 scales. So I started paracord wrapping my handles and went with the leather sheath. I like how slim the leather sheaths are because they fit perfectly in the unique pockets on my hiking pants, which the Boltaron did not do. The slim width and depth work nicely together. But I am not a fan of how long the leather sheath is. When I sit down in my car the sheath hits the seat and pushes up making it slightly irritating, emphasis on slightly. I’ve not had a knife fall out of the leather sheaths as of yet but I have bad knees and my running days are over. Also I think the paracord handles help the knives fit snugly.

[Chleiti]

Here are some photos with measurements. Scales are Halpern micarta that also fit the stock Boltaron sheath. I'm holding it very loosely in the last pic, not pinching the blade; only caveat for the retention is that this sheath is still very new, so I'm not sure how much it will break in and potentially loosen up with regular use.







Attempted to upload a video that doesn't want to work on my phone- https://imgur.com/a/OtnB9kr

[Hatuletoh]

Thank you, gentlemen, that's very helpful and I believe you've sold me on the leather sheath. Being a Spyderco product I figured it wasn't a complete piece of junk, but there's a lot of space on the continuum between "complete piece of junk" and "sheath I'd actually want to use," especially to carry a knife that might shatter if it were to fall out onto a hard surface.

[xnmw]

Thank you, gentlemen, that's very helpful and I believe you've sold me on the leather sheath. Being a Spyderco product I figured it wasn't a complete piece of junk, but there's a lot of space on the continuum between "complete piece of junk" and "sheath I'd actually want to use," especially to carry a knife that might shatter if it were to fall out onto a hard surface.

I just got mine today with the new mule and it’s tiiight. Even with my old mule with the g10 scales it’s tight. Going to let it break in. It feels like good quality though and I got it for the low carry position. No regrets

[Hatuletoh]

Thank you, gentlemen, that's very helpful and I believe you've sold me on the leather sheath. Being a Spyderco product I figured it wasn't a complete piece of junk, but there's a lot of space on the continuum between "complete piece of junk" and "sheath I'd actually want to use," especially to carry a knife that might shatter if it were to fall out onto a hard surface.

I just got mine today with the new mule and it’s tiiight. Even with my old mule with the g10 scales it’s tight. Going to let it break in. It feels like good quality though and I got it for the low carry position. No regrets

Yes, the one I received was very tight too, but I consider that a positive thing, and I agree: the construction quality is excellent. Overall I'm pretty happy with my leather sheath, but I've reverted to the Boltaron because I discovered that the ceramic mule does, in fact, fit in the standard Boltaron sheath. Or at least my ceramic mule fits into my Boltaron sheath. The retention is a little tighter than the with steel mules, but like I said, tight is good for me.

[SchoonerBum]

The mule team leather sheath is awesome. I’m biased in that I used roughly that style of sheath at work for years when I was sailing professionally. I tend to wear those on piece of rope that I just tie on over whatever else I’m wearing, so I can slide the knife around to wherever it’s most accessible or least in the way depending on what I need. I really like this style of sheath for rigging work and I wouldn’t hesitate to take the mule sheath aloft.

I wish these were available for all Spyderco fixed blades, but that’s just me being lazy and trying to get out of making my own leather sheaths.

[Nottoby]

Sheath is good sheaths are to the persons own needs i like scout carry for edc will make a leather scout carry soon

[VandymanG]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

[Spyderwebs]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

I got a leather sheath and the same unthreading happened to me. Identical.

I believe it was caised from inserting the knife. The tip can catch the threads and act like a threadcutter, then it just loosens up and falls apart. This is a design flaw IMO because it is common to push the knife lightly onto the upper leather loop while sliding it down. This action can very easily catch or cut a thread and begin the unthreading the loop.

Check to see if it looks like you cut a thread from the inside while re-sheathing (i.e. maybe one or more is partially cut or frayed)

I returned it for a Boltron sheath which I like much more. The leather one is pretty worthless to me because you cant deploy 1 handed either. The knife wants to lift the sheath and bind up on the draw, meaning to get a clean draw I needed to secure the loose hanging bottom with my off hand, defeating the purpose of a fixed blade (a quick, 1 handed draw).

[VandymanG]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

I got a leather sheath and the same unthreading happened to me. Identical.

I believe it was caised from inserting the knife. The tip can catch the threads and act like a threadcutter, then it just loosens up and falls apart. This is a design flaw IMO because it is common to push the knife lightly onto the upper leather loop while sliding it down. This action can very easily catch or cut a thread and begin the unthreading the loop.

Check to see if it looks like you cut a thread from the inside while re-sheathing (i.e. maybe one or more is partially cut or frayed)

I returned it for a Boltron sheath which I like much more. The leather one is pretty worthless to me because you cant deploy 1 handed either. The knife wants to lift the sheath and bind up on the draw, meaning to get a clean draw I needed to secure the loose hanging bottom with my off hand, defeating the purpose of a fixed blade (a quick, 1 handed draw).

Wow ok this seems very plausible. I paracord my knives so they draw from the sheath very easily one handed. But I rarely look or consider how i re-sheath the knife. I’ll look at the threads a little more carefully to see if they look cut.

I tend to like the leather sheaths for hiking because they also easily fit into unique pockets in my hiking pants and pack.

[VandymanG]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

I got a leather sheath and the same unthreading happened to me. Identical.

I believe it was caised from inserting the knife. The tip can catch the threads and act like a threadcutter, then it just loosens up and falls apart. This is a design flaw IMO because it is common to push the knife lightly onto the upper leather loop while sliding it down. This action can very easily catch or cut a thread and begin the unthreading the loop.

Check to see if it looks like you cut a thread from the inside while re-sheathing (i.e. maybe one or more is partially cut or frayed)

I returned it for a Boltron sheath which I like much more. The leather one is pretty worthless to me because you cant deploy 1 handed either. The knife wants to lift the sheath and bind up on the draw, meaning to get a clean draw I needed to secure the loose hanging bottom with my off hand, defeating the purpose of a fixed blade (a quick, 1 handed draw).

Went hiking yesterday and realized the busted threads on my leather sheath give me the opportunity to cut the loop off. This will make the sheath work better in my Khul hiking pants, which have “weird” (added the quote marks just for those that complain about them. Sheesh grammar in an online forum, “ugh”) skinny deep pockets on the back outside of the pants. Hmm was that a run on sentence oops! The sheath will also work better in my Prana hiking pants and in my backpack

[Scandi Grind]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

I got a leather sheath and the same unthreading happened to me. Identical.

I believe it was caised from inserting the knife. The tip can catch the threads and act like a threadcutter, then it just loosens up and falls apart. This is a design flaw IMO because it is common to push the knife lightly onto the upper leather loop while sliding it down. This action can very easily catch or cut a thread and begin the unthreading the loop.

Check to see if it looks like you cut a thread from the inside while re-sheathing (i.e. maybe one or more is partially cut or frayed)

I returned it for a Boltron sheath which I like much more. The leather one is pretty worthless to me because you cant deploy 1 handed either. The knife wants to lift the sheath and bind up on the draw, meaning to get a clean draw I needed to secure the loose hanging bottom with my off hand, defeating the purpose of a fixed blade (a quick, 1 handed draw).

Huh, this is interesting. I bet the only likely way that would happen was if the tip of the knife did catch the threads. I am concepting a leather sheath for a Mora right now, so this is a problem I will want to take into account. I might be able to put a groove for the threads to set inside of to minimize the risk of them getting cut, but I'm not quite sure. The sure fire solution would be to use a brass rivet to attach the belt loop, but that could scratch the blade coming in and out. On this particular knife, scratches don't matter, it's plenty scratched already, but I want to use the same construction for future sheaths where that could be an issue. It's something for me to think about.

[VandymanG]

Well I carried my K294 mule in Moab and Arches National Park for the first week of April and didn’t notice the sheath damage till a couple of days ago. Can’t carry a gun in National parks so I carried my mule in its place on my gun belt. Well apparently the rock scrambling and sitting down (sheath hits car seat when I sit down) were too much for the leather. Just glad I didn’t lose the knife, a few threads held on.

Not sure how I’m going to repair this sheath. Not in my skill set as of yet.

I got a leather sheath and the same unthreading happened to me. Identical.

I believe it was caised from inserting the knife. The tip can catch the threads and act like a threadcutter, then it just loosens up and falls apart. This is a design flaw IMO because it is common to push the knife lightly onto the upper leather loop while sliding it down. This action can very easily catch or cut a thread and begin the unthreading the loop.

Check to see if it looks like you cut a thread from the inside while re-sheathing (i.e. maybe one or more is partially cut or frayed)

I returned it for a Boltron sheath which I like much more. The leather one is pretty worthless to me because you cant deploy 1 handed either. The knife wants to lift the sheath and bind up on the draw, meaning to get a clean draw I needed to secure the loose hanging bottom with my off hand, defeating the purpose of a fixed blade (a quick, 1 handed draw).

Huh, this is interesting. I bet the only likely way that would happen was if the tip of the knife did catch the threads. I am concepting a leather sheath for a Mora right now, so this is a problem I will want to take into account. I might be able to put a groove for the threads to set inside of to minimize the risk of them getting cut, but I'm not quite sure. The sure fire solution would be to use a brass rivet to attach the belt loop, but that could scratch the blade coming in and out. On this particular knife, scratches don't matter, it's plenty scratched already, but I want to use the same construction for future sheaths where that could be an issue. It's something for me to think about.

I was wondering if you finished the sheath you designed. Would love to see it if possible.

[Scandi Grind]

Well I didn't end up making a sheath for my Mora (yet), but I did make one for my Dexter paring knife. Here's a picture:

For this one I just decided to inset the threads the best I could by cutting a shallow groove for the threads to set in and hammering them down real good. Since I am conscious of the issue, I don't think I will ever accidentally cut the threads, but I am still thinking about possible ways to protect them farther. One idea I might experiment with is cutting a piece of freezer Ziploc bag and glueing it over the threads just to give them a little bit of protection. Hopefully a knife tip would just slip off rather than catch and cut the threads then.

Here is a thread with a few in progress pictures: viewtopic.php?t=97015

[sal]

Hi,

Could I get one of you to send me a sheath with the threads cut? We'd like to study and fix the issue. We'll replace the sheath for you in the sheath of your choice.

Very sharp knives and leather sheaths are sometimes a problem that needs a closer look..

Spyderco
Attn: Sal Glesser
820 Spyderco Way
Golden, CO 80403

Thanx much.

Hey Scandi Grind,

I would be interested in knowing more about your sheath design?

sal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Continual improvement is our evolutionary obligation to humankind".

[Scandi Grind]

Hi Sal, didn't expect you to take any notice of my design, ha ha! I haven't been doing it for very long, kind of just a passion project I got into, but I am glad to share anything I can.

Is there anything specific that you are curious about or just the general design?

[Scandi Grind]

Well I'm currently working on another sheath, this one for a TOPS Fieldcraft. Here I have an in progress picture with the inside threads still visible, which is the most relevant piece for this topic. Basically what I have done so far is just use my small SAK blade there to cut a shallow groove into the stitches path. That way when I tighten up the stitches and hammer them down, the threads pretty much set flush with the leather. The exception is the three over stitches I do which are little proud of the leather. I am using nylon thread that is only 0.6 mm thick and is a flat thread, so it sets pretty well into the cut grooves minus the over stitches.

At this point I can either just leave it, like I did on my last sheath, or I could try coming up with some extra protection. I have a bunch of different thoughts on how I could that, the first being to glue some fexible plastic over them. I thought of just using a piece of freezer Ziploc bag. Then I thought of gluing straight on top of the threads with maybe super glue or epoxy just to cover them with something that won't want to snag on knife tips, but I don't know that either of those are flexible enough to be on leather that can bend around, and I'm not sure if it would actually provide the protection I want. Then the seemingly most obvious possibility occured to me last, that I might just be able to glue a thin piece of leather over the threads, I just don't have a thin piece at the moment to try that with. I have seen this trick used for covering up brass rivets that end up inside the sheath that you don't want to scratch up the blade. Of course using a brass rivet to fasten the belt loop would solve this problem without a doubt, then use the leather cover to prevent scratches as mentioned, I just don't like the look of riveted belt loops nearly as much.

I'll probably do some experimenting with different strategies as I get the chance, but now that I know you can catch the threads inside the sheath, for my own sheaths I can avoid the danger pretty easily.

Otherwise this is a pretty basic pouch sheath made from 7-9 oz. veg-tan leather with a half inch thick welt. I am still experimenting with layout strategies to get the best retention and fit consistently, but I don't think there is much else that is important to mention. If there is any other info anyone would like me to share though let me know. I'm happy to go into any details, sheath making has been quite fun so far.

[VandymanG]

Hi,

Could I get one of you to send me a sheath with the threads cut? We'd like to study and fix the issue. We'll replace the sheath for you in the sheath of your choice.

Very sharp knives and leather sheaths are sometimes a problem that needs a closer look..

Spyderco
Attn: Sal Glesser
820 Spyderco Way
Golden, CO 80403

Thanx much.

Hey Scandi Grind,

I would be interested in knowing more about your sheath design?

sal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Continual improvement is our evolutionary obligation to humankind".

Hi @sal i can send you one of the sheaths with the damaged threads. I had two but one of them I pulled out the few remaining threads and now use the sheath as a backpack sheath or pocket sheath in one of my hiking pants. I’ll send the sheath that still has damaged threads on Monday when the post office opens.

[VandymanG]

Well I didn't end up making a sheath for my Mora (yet), but I did make one for my Dexter paring knife. Here's a picture:

sheathInProgress4.JPG

For this one I just decided to inset the threads the best I could by cutting a shallow groove for the threads to set in and hammering them down real good. Since I am conscious of the issue, I don't think I will ever accidentally cut the threads, but I am still thinking about possible ways to protect them farther. One idea I might experiment with is cutting a piece of freezer Ziploc bag and glueing it over the threads just to give them a little bit of protection. Hopefully a knife tip would just slip off rather than catch and cut the threads then.

Here is a thread with a few in progress pictures: viewtopic.php?t=97015

Love the sheath look. One of the sheaths I have has a thin leather layer sewn over the threads to protect them. Just thought that might interest you.