Spyderco Shaman excessive blade play with skinny scales

[Mpoakes]

I recently purchased Ripp’s Garage Tech scales for my two Spyderco Shamans. The scales are the “Spyderco Shaman Skinny Tero Tuf Scale Set”, one in gray and one in OD green for my stonewash blade and my DLC blade, respectively.

Ever since I received both knives, they both had some blade play that was a little too excessive for knives nearing the $300 threshold…each. I tried tightening the pivot screws and no luck so I just left them both alone.

Eventually, I decided to replace the stonewash model factory scales with gray RGT skinny scales. I assembled everything and immediately noticed that the previous blade play went from noticeable to extreme. I took it all apart and reassembled with the same result. On the second go, thinking it was just a loose pivot screw, I over tightened one of them and snapped the head off. I ended up sending it back to Spyderco for a pivot and pivot screw replacement as they said they won’t sell me the parts to do it myself, per their email from customer service. I looked around online and found hints that the PM2 pivot and screws may work but no concrete evidence so I paid the $25 for Spyderco to do the work. I know…overpriced, but I was out of options and wanted my knife in working order again. Also, I found PM2 pivot and screw sets online for about $25 shipped so it seemed worth it to just have the factory do the replacement since there was uncertainty about the fit.

Later, while replacing the scales on the DLC model I ran into the same exact issue as the stonewash model…very excessive blade play. The knife already had way too much for a $270 knife (current 2024 pricing) but the RGT scales just exacerbated that like crazy. Two knives in a row, both with RGT skinny scales and both with excessive blade play that couldn’t be removed by tightening the pivot screws and one that I already snapped a screw from over tightening. There had to be a common denominator.

This time it got me to thinking, what was different, what was the same? I tried looking for burrs in the liners, making sure all surfaces were smooth, ensuring that the D side of the pivot was properly aligned…literally everything I could think of. It finally came down to the minimal thickness change of the original Shaman scales as compared to the RGT scales and the pivot screws being just a hair too long. To the naked eye it isn’t much but it’s enough that the pivot screws don’t tighten down into the pivot tight enough to remove the blade play because the scales are just that much thinner. The pivot screws actually meet in the middle of the pivot, touching, and can’t be tightened any further, allowing the excessive blade play because they don’t pull the liners in enough. To fix this, I removed each screw, one at a time, and filed down the first thread with a file. I reinstalled, tightened things down and this fixed the issue, removing ALL blade play, allowing me to recenter my blade tip as well. Now, when the stonewashed version returns from its three week hiatus at Spyderco (with blade play) I’ll have the exact fix to remove its blade play also. I’m sure Spyderco will just slap in a new pivot and pivot screw, box it back up and ship it out without bothering to remove the blade play. Which is fine since I now have a fix.

I just wanted to share this for those with both factory and aftermarket scales as there is blade play in both but it only gets worse with “skinny scales”.

Michael

[Manixguy@1994]

I have the RGT Shaman skinny scales in burlap canvas and love them and have no issues . I’m a lefty and for me the skinny scales work better for me operating the folder one handed than the stock scales . Sorry to hear about your issues . MG2

[Mpoakes]

After fixing the DLC model, I absolutely prefer the RGT skinny scales. They fit my hand much better than the factory G10. They just needed those pivot screws shaved down ever so slightly to get the blade play removed.

The stonewash model returned from Spyderco today, after being there for just a week. They replaced the pivot, the pivot screws and removed all blade play…without me having to remove the excess from the screws. Not to say they didn’t have to do the exact same thing, but just glad it’s fixed. Price was $25 for the service plus the shipping fee for me to send the knife to them. Both knives now wearing their new skinny scales and functioning perfectly.

[RAHComanche]

When you say shaved down, you mean shortening the length of the pivot screws, thereby allowing the scales to clamp down closer together? Is the idea that the pivot screws were bottoming out at each other? I ask because I have a bit of side to side play after changing my Shaman scales.

[Mpoakes]

Yes, exactly. The pivot screws were both just about a thread too long each. I shaved each one down with a file, shortening them and causing them to clamp down tighter, also pulling the scales and liners closer together. This fixed my blade play problem perfectly.

[Ocho]

You could also try a thicker washer or bearings depending on the model. SKIFF BEARINGS offers replacment washers and bearings and the have a compatibility list.. just a thought

[RAHComanche]

Yes, exactly. The pivot screws were both just about a thread too long each. I shaved each one down with a file, shortening them and causing them to clamp down tighter, also pulling the scales and liners closer together. This fixed my blade play problem perfectly.

I tried swapping the pivot screw from one side to the other. That seemed to work. No side play now. Maybe one pivot screw worked better on one side. Anyway. Happy Camper.

On to my Native 5 which really takes a lot of force to open!

[Bolster]

Thank you Mpoakes for this report, good info to know, and glad you found a fix.