Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
When sharpening my Spydercos (on my KME) I usually take my edges all the way to 1500 grit and then strop and sometimes use lapping films to achieve a mirror edge. I have noticed that a mirror edge cuts much differently than a courser edge and almost slides across material as opposed to digging into what you're cutting. I prefer grabby edge but love the looks of the mirror edge. My question is, lets say I sharpen to 600 grit and stop there. This will have a nice course edge, but if I continue to strop this edge will it lose the grittiness of the coarseness? Because in essence aren't you just smoothing out sharpening lines on the edge when stropping thus doing away with the course edge? I understand stropping can bring a dulling edge back a bit, but is it even needed after a 600 grit sharpening or will it defeat my purpose?
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Not a direct answer to your question, but this thread might help or at least be of interest for you:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=85096
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=85096
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Sharpen to a polished edge, then apply a coarse microbevel?
I've been doing that for years with my K2 (~10dps main bevel, ~15dps micro). I've tested a ton of different kinds of edges on it, and that's the one that both cuts and looks best (subjective, of course) and lasts longest.
I've been doing that for years with my K2 (~10dps main bevel, ~15dps micro). I've tested a ton of different kinds of edges on it, and that's the one that both cuts and looks best (subjective, of course) and lasts longest.
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Exactly what I was going to suggest.Giygas wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:46 amSharpen to a polished edge, then apply a coarse microbevel?
I've been doing that for years with my K2 (~10dps main bevel, ~15dps micro). I've tested a ton of different kinds of edges on it, and that's the one that both cuts and looks best (subjective, of course) and lasts longest.
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
stropping polishes the apex and gradually removes microserrations.jmj3esq wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:04 amWhen sharpening my Spydercos (on my KME) I usually take my edges all the way to 1500 grit and then strop and sometimes use lapping films to achieve a mirror edge. I have noticed that a mirror edge cuts much differently than a courser edge and almost slides across material as opposed to digging into what you're cutting. I prefer grabby edge but love the looks of the mirror edge. My question is, lets say I sharpen to 600 grit and stop there. This will have a nice course edge, but if I continue to strop this edge will it lose the grittiness of the coarseness? Because in essence aren't you just smoothing out sharpening lines on the edge when stropping thus doing away with the course edge? I understand stropping can bring a dulling edge back a bit, but is it even needed after a 600 grit sharpening or will it defeat my purpose?
if you prefer a toothy edge you should not strop.
https://old.reddit.com/r/sharpening/com ... grit_edge/
https://old.reddit.com/r/sharpening/com ... _120_grit/
600 grit is refined enough to send arm hairs flying if a light touch and steady hand is used.
Aesthetics aside it would be a waste of time, but you could apply a mirror edge then microbevel with a coarser finish. Say, 12dps up to 5,000 grit, then sharpen at 15dps on 600 grit.
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Stropping will certainly eventually polish the apex. It can be used sparingly to refresh an edge a small number of times, but eventually you'll need to take the edge back to a stone to restore its toothiness.
As has been mentioned, you can certainly think outside the box and do a polished bevel and a coarse microbevel... the options are endless when it comes to putting an edge on a knife, if you're able to confidently get a knife sharp there's no harm in experimenting and finding what works for you.
As has been mentioned, you can certainly think outside the box and do a polished bevel and a coarse microbevel... the options are endless when it comes to putting an edge on a knife, if you're able to confidently get a knife sharp there's no harm in experimenting and finding what works for you.
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Hi Jmj,
You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.
sal
You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.
sal
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
I find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).
- Al
Work: Jumpmaster 2
Home: DF2 K390 Wharncliffe/DF2 Salt H1 SE and K390 Police 4 LW SE/15V Shaman
Dream knives -
Chinook in Magnacut (any era)
Manix 2 XL Salt in Magnacut
A larger Rockjumper in Magnacut SE
Work: Jumpmaster 2
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Dream knives -
Chinook in Magnacut (any era)
Manix 2 XL Salt in Magnacut
A larger Rockjumper in Magnacut SE
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
I'll take you up on that offer, Sal. I usually use my Spydie Chef in the kitchen, but am always looking for a dedicated knife in that area that I don't have to di much with. Ive been looking at a Counter Critter or Counter puppy as an option. Will these suffice for what you are recommending?sal wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:05 pmHi Jmj,
You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.
sal
Thanks for the info, Boss!
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
I have certainly thought about doing this after I first heard of it, but with my scatter brain, there is probably no way I could successfully sharpen like this. I can just see it, I'd forget what side is which and screw it up somehow. Sounds overly difficult.JoviAl wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:17 pmI find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Hi Jmj,
K04SBL only.
sal
K04SBL only.
sal
Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
It’s pretty easy to be honest, you just have to decide which side is which before you start. You can always write on the blade in sharpie (or your own preferred brand of permanent marker ). I basically treat one side as if I’m traditionally sharpening for a mirror edge end result, and the other side I stick to either the CBN rod on my sharpmaker, or a ~150 grit dia plate on my KME, then a very gentle stropping to finish. The edge lasts ages and has good aggression in my uses.jmj3esq wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 7:13 pmI have certainly thought about doing this after I first heard of it, but with my scatter brain, there is probably no way I could successfully sharpen like this. I can just see it, I'd forget what side is which and screw it up somehow. Sounds overly difficult.JoviAl wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:17 pmI find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).
Re Sal’s knife recommendation - did anyone else go and have a look for one online and seriously consider buying one (or was that just me)? That is some solid confidence in your product Sal
Last edited by JoviAl on Sat Mar 02, 2024 5:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Al
Work: Jumpmaster 2
Home: DF2 K390 Wharncliffe/DF2 Salt H1 SE and K390 Police 4 LW SE/15V Shaman
Dream knives -
Chinook in Magnacut (any era)
Manix 2 XL Salt in Magnacut
A larger Rockjumper in Magnacut SE
Work: Jumpmaster 2
Home: DF2 K390 Wharncliffe/DF2 Salt H1 SE and K390 Police 4 LW SE/15V Shaman
Dream knives -
Chinook in Magnacut (any era)
Manix 2 XL Salt in Magnacut
A larger Rockjumper in Magnacut SE
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Well I did just take a look at it because you mentioned it , but I don't think I could do a serrated knife in the kitchen. I have little doubt in the performance, but I have not liked what serrated knives tend to do to my cutting boards. Not sure if this knife would be any different, but I can't easily sand out the gouges serrations usually put in my boards.JoviAl wrote: Re Sal’s knife recommendation - did anyone else go and have a look for one online and seriously consider buying one (or was that just me)? That is some solid confidence in your product Sal
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
"Use less pressure"
-- Old Spyderco proverb.
sal
-- Old Spyderco proverb.
sal
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
I feel it would be cool for one to be sent to Gabe of “The Home Slice” youtube channel, he’s always experimenting with different types of edges. His results for H2 serrated vs even the craziest of edged and steels were nuts.sal wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 6:05 pmHi Jmj,
You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.
sal
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
Our primary cutting board is old... perhaps 30 years or more. It was nothing special when we got it, but it works fine. A few years back it was dished, so I ran it through the planer to flatten it out. It's getting to the point where it needs to be planed again. It might be time to replace it, but with some kind of exotic wood.Scandi Grind wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 9:46 pmI have not liked what serrated knives tend to do to my cutting boards. Not sure if this knife would be any different, but I can't easily sand out the gouges serrations usually put in my boards.
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Re: Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...
OK, I hear ya. I'm a kinda tempted to try something serrated out. I wish there was still Z-cuts with this serration pattern. I guess there is always the K05SBK paring knife if I wanted to try that.
The thing that bothers me about a 6" utility knife is that it doesn't have any finger clearance. I don't think a utility knife could ever be my most used knife in the kitchen for that reason. Ever consider making a serrated chef knife that has better board clearance?
Last edited by Scandi Grind on Sat Mar 02, 2024 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man."
-- Old Norse proverb
-- Old Norse proverb