My Folding Mule Project

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CasperFatone
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#141

Post by CasperFatone »

I got the pivot hole drilled today, which feels like a big step forward. After some deliberation I decided to just go with a 1/8” hole and forgo a pivot bushing, but I figure I can always enlarge the hole to use one if need be. Hopefully the ceramic is low enough friction that it doesn’t need one, but we will see.

Unfortunately I now have to wait a bit to proceed the way I’d like to. A couple days ago I purchased a used Kizer Drop Bear on Reddit knife swap that comes with extra hardware for the purpose of design study and providing the necessary parts, but it still hasn’t been shipped. I wanted to check out the Drop Bear in particular because Kizer’s version of the cross bar lock has adjustable spring tension which I feel is a nice feature. Hopefully it doesn’t take too long to get here because I’m dying to get to work on this thing!

Image
Amateur maker of folding knives and addicted to modding Spyderco knives

Folding Mules- m398 liner lock, Rex76 compression lock, 15v liner lock flipper
Mrchunkle
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#142

Post by Mrchunkle »

I was going to jump on here to laughingly ask you to make a folder out of the ceramic mule. but here I find you already starting. were you thinking of a ceramic ball detent? Any other material would just wear away
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Fireman
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#143

Post by Fireman »

👏👀👀👀👀👀👀
:winking-tongue Mule Team Army 001
MNOSD 008 :usflag
Image Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.
CasperFatone
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#144

Post by CasperFatone »

Mrchunkle wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 9:58 am
I was going to jump on here to laughingly ask you to make a folder out of the ceramic mule. but here I find you already starting. were you thinking of a ceramic ball detent? Any other material would just wear away
I’m going with an Axis/crossbar style lock, so no detent ball needed on this one ;)
Amateur maker of folding knives and addicted to modding Spyderco knives

Folding Mules- m398 liner lock, Rex76 compression lock, 15v liner lock flipper
CasperFatone
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#145

Post by CasperFatone »

I decided hold off on making my HIC Axis lock Mule, mostly because it seems like a difficult material to learn a new lock with. My thought is to probably make an Axis lock Mule with one of my other Mules first, then fit the HIC blade so it can be swapped in. Also, this whole thing is only about making what I feel like making and right now I want to make something else.

The thing my mind is focused on for some reason is making a lightweight compression lock Mule, so that is what I’m doing. It will be built in a similar fashion to the Para 3 LW, only I am using G10 like the liner less Native 5. The lock bar is going to be .060” titanium and will be held in place by screws from outside the show side and sandwiched between the scale and a backspacer. I’m going to use a shouldered stop pin that can also be screwed in with 2-56 screws, and as with pretty much every folder I do I’ll be doing PB washers and a pivot bushing.

The Mule I’m using as a donor is my other 15v, the first of which became a liner lock flipper. After how nicely the liner lock 15v Mule flips I really started wanting one that flips as well with a comp lock. I figure the worst case scenario is that I adapt the blade into a knife with full Ti liners if my LW idea doesn’t pan out. However I’ve made a liner lock knife with this same style construction and it turned out well.

So far I’ve just laid everything out, cut my G10 scales to shape, and did the lockbar relief in the show scale. I had to do the last little bit of the cut freehand because the template bit has a 3/8” diameter. My pics show the jig that I made to do the relief cut using a top bearing template bit in a trim router. The cut has a slight angle as it gets closer to the blade tang to allow for the bar (plus the detent ball) to move out of the way. This was done by adding a small shim to the template after the initial cut and slightly lowering the bit.

To make the lock bar I am simply using a piece of tape to transfer the shape over to my sheet of titanium. The tape was stuck on the scale and rubbed with a pencil, then stuck to the titanium. I will cut it out close to size on my portaband/table setup and creep up on the fit on my grinder.

Here are some progress pics. Hopefully I can spend some time on it this weekend.

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Amateur maker of folding knives and addicted to modding Spyderco knives

Folding Mules- m398 liner lock, Rex76 compression lock, 15v liner lock flipper
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VeraX_Knives
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#146

Post by VeraX_Knives »

Very nice 👍

I'd look at some cheap Chinese CNCs - that's what I have but never use for these purposes. It's about 600$ with upgraded motors and software, but totally worth it if you do this stuff a lot which I don't. I started the same way.
You say E = mc² × I argue E² = m²c⁴ + p²c²
Jason Ward shockey01@gmail.com +1 412-726-8610 My Discord
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Bolster
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#147

Post by Bolster »

Very clever jig work.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
CasperFatone
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#148

Post by CasperFatone »

VeraX_Knives wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2024 11:47 am
Very nice 👍

I'd look at some cheap Chinese CNCs - that's what I have but never use for these purposes. It's about 600$ with upgraded motors and software, but totally worth it if you do this stuff a lot which I don't. I started the same way.
Not a bad idea, but I actually enjoy doing this kind of hands on work. If I ever wanted to make these to sell I’d probably get a CNC. However, I have almost zero interest in ever making these to sell. I’m really only doing this for my own enjoyment, to practice making different lock mechanisms, and to make my Mules something that I carry daily.
Bolster wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2024 7:54 pm
Very clever jig work.
Thanks, I really enjoy making jigs lol. I’ve been a custom cabinetmaker for 20 years so it comes second nature at this point.
Amateur maker of folding knives and addicted to modding Spyderco knives

Folding Mules- m398 liner lock, Rex76 compression lock, 15v liner lock flipper
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sal
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#149

Post by sal »

Great stuff.

Thanx much for sharing.

sal
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VeraX_Knives
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Re: My Folding Mule Project

#150

Post by VeraX_Knives »

CasperFatone wrote:
Sun Apr 28, 2024 9:26 am
VeraX_Knives wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2024 11:47 am
Very nice 👍

I'd look at some cheap Chinese CNCs - that's what I have but never use for these purposes. It's about 600$ with upgraded motors and software, but totally worth it if you do this stuff a lot which I don't. I started the same way.
Not a bad idea, but I actually enjoy doing this kind of hands on work. If I ever wanted to make these to sell I’d probably get a CNC. However, I have almost zero interest in ever making these to sell. I’m really only doing this for my own enjoyment, to practice making different lock mechanisms, and to make my Mules something that I carry daily.
Bolster wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2024 7:54 pm
Very clever jig work.
Thanks, I really enjoy making jigs lol. I’ve been a custom cabinetmaker for 20 years so it comes second nature at this point.
I totally understand that one man same deal here lol I just ended up getting it for texturing handles in ways that.. pyramid type Spyderco textures are pre-built into software and just are much easier with gcode than my brain and hands which are NOT a expert craftsman whatsoever.

I cannot sit here and say that I enjoy pressing a button and getting a result but it's something I rarely use, mostly for laser work. I'm betting that the prices have gone up quite a bit also from when I got these in 2020. FYI, technically yes these cheap Chinese 1.7a motors can actually do hardened steel but you need constant coolant and many bits. That was a surprise to me personally on a 300w spindle upgrade from.. it says 60-96w. This POS.

https://gyazo.com/1ee41a3a52cda0b5237e10820d12b6d4

https://gyazo.com/eb6ecb3cb07bb462b7a7268a1c196954

Was like 600 or so with everything. You can tell that I use it often 😅

Edit: however if I were doing this folder thing, yeah I'd honestly CNC cut it all. It is.. rather accurate but I have a PC background that.. the software I believe is pretty easy to use and learn I use 'Carveco', the PC part may put some people off of it but the few folders I have made were completely done on that then hand fitted. All you literally have to do is scan a piece of steel on a printer and it will cut that shape if you did it correctly. Then there's 3D laser scanning which is even easier to use.

Honestly I just didn't think that I had the experience to make everything fit by hand hahaha I'll readily admit that one. So go to the computers! It is GREAT for blade replacements. I can confirm that it does work there. Grind it yourself but for the lock cuts, even these cheap POS CNCs work wonders which as I said did surprise me a bit if I'm being honest as I always am.
You say E = mc² × I argue E² = m²c⁴ + p²c²
Jason Ward shockey01@gmail.com +1 412-726-8610 My Discord
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