Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

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vivi
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#201

Post by vivi »

bumping this for suggestions under $100 (under $50 even better) for my first straight razor.
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#202

Post by Doc Dan »

vivi wrote:
Sun Jan 07, 2024 3:56 pm
bumping this for suggestions under $100 (under $50 even better) for my first straight razor.
I sent you a message, but then I thought, others might benefit from some of it. First, Ralf Aust and Thiers Issard, two of the best, use the same blades in their low end razors with the same heat treat...if you can find the low end ones. They are popular. Don't waste time on other brands unless someone is willing to check the razor for warps and other flaws. Ralf Aust hand makes razors and is well known for throwing away blades that aren't right. I know some others that make great razors, but not at that price, but Steven Colling is a few cents over $100 but then there's shipping (that's why I didn't suggest him, but he is top notch). Dovo can be had under a hundred for a 5/8 (common size) razor, but the seller needs to guarantee it against warps and other flaw. If it is flawless it would be a good razor.

Vintage razors can be found, sometimes NOS still in the box, for a very good price, often $50 and up. My first straight razor was a vintage Japanese razor that came professionally sharpened and it is a very, very good razor.

Maggardsrazors offers a honing service. theinvisibleedge hones every razor before they ship it and the shipping is free above a certain amount of money. Duke City on eBay is also very good and you might find a vintage razor that he has restored and honed pretty cheaply. I highly recommend him for his strops as they are affordable.

There are a number of professional honemeisters around. If anyone wants a list, just let me know.

All straight razors must be honed before use. It is not the same as sharpening a knife. Just because it says "shave ready" usually means it isn't ready to shave.

Some like to buy cheap Gold Dollar razors, but the steel is soft and the edge won't last. I have two I use for honing practice. They only cost around $7 each.

A 5/8 razor is going to be cheaper than a 6/8 razor which is cheaper than a 7/8 and etc. (width of the blade from edge to side of the spine).
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vivi
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#203

Post by vivi »

thanks for the advice Dan.
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#204

Post by Doc Dan »

Image

Here is one of my straight razors, a Thiers Issard singing full hollow ground Medaille D'Or Alger with black horn scales.

Also pictured is a red over clear brush by APShaveCo with a 28mm G5C synthetic knot.

The soap is a real luxury. It is Balkan Blend, as in pipe tobacco blend, scented. It combines three pipe tobacco scents, including latakia. There are notes of cherry, vanilla, citrus (to soften the sweet), and spice. It smells so good I sometimes leave the top off just to scent up the room. Performance wise, Shannon's Chupacabra base is one of the best there is. It is slick, protective, and the post shave is marvelous. Another plus is how manly a person smells after using it. There is nothing feminine about this soap that she created. It is the perfect gentleman's scent.
I Pray Heaven to Bestow The Best of Blessing on THIS HOUSE, and on ALL that shall hereafter Inhabit it. May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under This Roof! (John Adams regarding the White House)

Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)



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vivi
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#205

Post by vivi »

I ended up ordering a gold dollar 66 I think it's called. I saw it recommended from a few sources as a dirt cheap razor that's actually worthwhile.

If I like it I'll pick up something nicer in the 100-200$ range.
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#206

Post by Doc Dan »

vivi wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:43 am
I ended up ordering a gold dollar 66 I think it's called. I saw it recommended from a few sources as a dirt cheap razor that's actually worthwhile.

If I like it I'll pick up something nicer in the 100-200$ range.
Make sure the blade is straight. The steel is a bit soft. However, I know a lot of people that use them daily. Save yourself some grief and get it professionally honed before using. If you don't know anyone I can recommend a couple. There is a list on Badger and Blade, too.
I Pray Heaven to Bestow The Best of Blessing on THIS HOUSE, and on ALL that shall hereafter Inhabit it. May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under This Roof! (John Adams regarding the White House)

Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)



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vivi
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#207

Post by vivi »

Doc Dan wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 8:18 am
vivi wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:43 am
I ended up ordering a gold dollar 66 I think it's called. I saw it recommended from a few sources as a dirt cheap razor that's actually worthwhile.

If I like it I'll pick up something nicer in the 100-200$ range.
Make sure the blade is straight. The steel is a bit soft. However, I know a lot of people that use them daily. Save yourself some grief and get it professionally honed before using. If you don't know anyone I can recommend a couple. There is a list on Badger and Blade, too.
I'm planning on doing things the hard way of honing it myself. That's the main reason I got one, to appeal to my sharpening nerd side. I want to test my sharpening abilities more than anything :)

If I can't get a smooth shave out of it using the stones and strops I have, I'll reference that list. Thanks for the recommendation.
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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#208

Post by Doc Dan »

vivi wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 8:45 am
Doc Dan wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 8:18 am
vivi wrote:
Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:43 am
I ended up ordering a gold dollar 66 I think it's called. I saw it recommended from a few sources as a dirt cheap razor that's actually worthwhile.

If I like it I'll pick up something nicer in the 100-200$ range.
Make sure the blade is straight. The steel is a bit soft. However, I know a lot of people that use them daily. Save yourself some grief and get it professionally honed before using. If you don't know anyone I can recommend a couple. There is a list on Badger and Blade, too.
I'm planning on doing things the hard way of honing it myself. That's the main reason I got one, to appeal to my sharpening nerd side. I want to test my sharpening abilities more than anything :)

If I can't get a smooth shave out of it using the stones and strops I have, I'll reference that list. Thanks for the recommendation.
That will be fun. I didn't think about your being a sharpening fiend. :open-grin

I've got some stuff on honing. I wrote a bit for Spyderco on this. BTW, I also bought two Gold Dollars to learn to hone my own. I haven't had time to really get into it. I got distracted by my writing and by edge maintenance using diamond pasted balsa.
I Pray Heaven to Bestow The Best of Blessing on THIS HOUSE, and on ALL that shall hereafter Inhabit it. May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under This Roof! (John Adams regarding the White House)

Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)



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Re: Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

#209

Post by Doc Dan »

When shaving with a straight razor the temptation is to use the entire blade for the stroke. This will result in a cut, maybe a bad one. Use only the front 1/3 of the blade for most strokes. If the heel (back) of the blade is used for detailing, use on the back 1/3 or less. Always be careful of the point on the toe (front).

Another temptation is to use long strokes like some do with a multi-blade razor. This is a mistake, too, and may result in a cut. Making short strokes of half inch to an inch (1.27cm to 2.54cm) at a time is the way to go until one learns what one can get away with on one's own face.

There is a learning curve and I suggest, but am not dogmatic about it, that one shave with the grain of the beard only for the first three shaves to get a feel for using the razor. Then, carefully add against the grain. For me, that means down and the up. Don't try to shave up under the nose, though, until one is more experienced. Shave downward only for a good while.

After 100 shaves one will be a lot more expert, though the learning keeps on growing.
I Pray Heaven to Bestow The Best of Blessing on THIS HOUSE, and on ALL that shall hereafter Inhabit it. May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under This Roof! (John Adams regarding the White House)

Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)



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