
This is what I am going for.
Not OP but I run my hatchets about 13dps with a 20dps microbevel, and larger axes at about 15dps with a 20dps microbevel. I always take axes and hatchets up to a very high polish since they're push cutters, so the micro goes up to 5,000 grit and shaves.
vivi wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2023 10:53 amYou make me feel awfully pedestrian. I use fiskars hatchets, chopping axes and a splitting axe, and I'm very happy with them. The only wood handled axe I have these days is a 25 year old wetterlings bushcraft axe.
Not OP but I run my hatchets about 13dps with a 20dps microbevel, and larger axes at about 15dps with a 20dps microbevel. I always take axes and hatchets up to a very high polish since they're push cutters, so the micro goes up to 5,000 grit and shaves.
Gerbers are Fiskars, Fiskars are Gerbers!Manixguy@1994 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 20, 2023 7:16 amI have three Gerbers in different sizes and a wood handle splitter . This thread sounds interesting. MG2
ObviouslySolidState wrote: ↑Mon Dec 25, 2023 7:42 pmGerbers are Fiskars, Fiskars are Gerbers!Manixguy@1994 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 20, 2023 7:16 amI have three Gerbers in different sizes and a wood handle splitter . This thread sounds interesting. MG2
https://axeandtool.com/gerber-vs-fiskars-axes
Makes me glad to see someone else say this. Push cutters deserve polished edges. If you're not doing abusive cutting tasks with your axe or hatchet, high polish is the ticket.Enactive wrote: ↑Sun Dec 24, 2023 6:53 pmOn the matter of convex sharpening, the "mousepad method" is great with various grits of wet/ dry sandpaper.
The upgraded version of this method is to use a neoprene backed sanding block with a handle.
If I am not describing this well enough Google the Rooster method of axe sharpening.
It is also important, as with all push cutting wood tools to take the bit to a very high grit, nearly polished finish.