kennbr34 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2023 11:06 amDo you think that it makes more sense to use an obtuse edge on a steel with high wear-resistance? Kind of how people suggest that you should take advantage of tough steels by putting an acute edge on there. To me it would makes sense that while the more obtuse an edge, the more wear-resistance goes down, but the high carbide content would mitigate that and allow a more obtuse angle for increased edge stability. On the other hand, it seems that a more obtuse angle invariably means a thicker apex and perhaps less cutting ability? As with all things, there's probably a sweet-spot, but it makes me wonder if that sweet spot is higher for carbide rich steels, and lower for low-carbide steels.Deadboxhero wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2023 10:20 amJust increase the edge angle setting on the KME.jmj3esq wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2023 8:45 amThanks for the good info, Shawn. It makes perfect sense. I should have never chose a Manix 2 with its very thin factory edge.
I dabbled in freehand sharpening and love convex edges, but I could just never form that bur well enough to get the sharpness I wanted. I moved to a KME sharpener a few months back and am getting nice, screaming sharp, edges. The problem is, I've lost the ability to convex the edge like I could freehand sharpening. Im not able to get those beefy edges that I like. I think Im just going to stick to a thick stock edge like that found on the Shaman. I have several of them already. Let me know if what else I need to keep in mind. Thanks.
You'll still get your flat crisp edge just start at ~22dps and see how that works for you and adjust accordingly through use.
Personallize it, make it yours.
The factory edge is a place holder, it's not a constraint we are forced to adhere too.
Absolutely not.
The end user is the biggest variable of all.
Dr Vadim Kraichuk would advocate for ~13dps on high hardness, high carbide volume steels sharpened with a hollow edge on his Tormek using cBN wheels.
I personally like sub 15 dps edges, but it's not a one size fits all experience for everyone.
Also, it's not just carbide volume that determines stability but the matrix that surrounds the carbides.
We need to remember the knives don't cut by themselves. They have handles on them, so the end user decides the outcome.
We all may be painting the same picture of "cutting things" but we all use different brush (cut) strokes and one man's heaven (25dps or 15dps) is another man's ****.