Community Sharpening Journal

[TkoK83Spy]

That's a different look from you Larry! Fun to switch it up sometimes...just sucks using a mirror finish!

[w3tnz]

Reprofiled this one yesterday, CPM M4 15dps, 100 through 1000 diamonds and 5mu/3.5mu strop, can whittle hairs and push cut tissue.

Factory edge was ok, one side was off by about 2 deg so took some work knocking off the shoulder and tip needed a bit removed to align with the bevel. Approx. 2hrs / 3 beers :)

[TkoK83Spy]

Nicely done, looks good! I find when you hit that sweet spot with a few beers, you can really hone in on sharpening.

[legOFwhat?]

That's a different look from you Larry! Fun to switch it up sometimes...just sucks using a mirror finish!

Always mix it up brother Rick! made a few mistakes around the tip and plunge that I probably wouldn't have if I did it freehand. Regardless, I learned a few things in the process. 12 degrees is the lowest I've ever gone so maybe I can learn a few things from that too.

[bbturbodad]

Spent a couple hours working on thinning out this Delica. I need to flatten the stone and probably give it another hour or two to get it where I want.

[tcarltonw]

Has anyone used the Venev Cerberus dual sided stones for the/on the KME? If so do you use the stone compensator attachment. From what I've read the change in thickness is a tiny amount.. but for the sake of being obsessive should that be used to account for the change in thickness from dressing them?

[vivi]

Very pleased with how this one turned out. Cleanly shaved right off the 140 grit diamond stone I reprofile with. Then hit each side twice with one of those fine ceramic rods from the seconds sale.

That's my full sharpening setup these days for most knives. Set a shaving sharp bevel with a really coarse diamond reprofiling stone, then refine it a touch on a fine ceramic. Shaving sharp but extremely toothy. Even low edge retention steels like this SK5 SRK will slice for ages with this sort of edge.

[vivi]

SRKC that was stripped and had the primary grind thinned out on my belt sander.

[TkoK83Spy]

Nobody has been doing any sharpening the past few weeks!? Decided to go free hand on the PMA11 Mule. Aiming for 10-13 dps on the DMT Xtra Coarse stone.

[tcarltonw]

Has anyone used the Venev Cerberus dual sided stones for the/on the KME? If so do you use the stone compensator attachment. From what I've read the change in thickness is a tiny amount.. but for the sake of being obsessive should that be used to account for the change in thickness from dressing them?

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

[vivi]

Did some work on my Military today.

Cleaned it, lubed it, loc-tite on every screw, pivot perfectly dialed, and of course worked on the edge.

Goal was to take it thinner and coarser than it was, and get it cleanly shaving right off my chefknivestogo 140 grit diamond plate.



I failed at that, only getting a rough shaving edge, so I cheated and went up to 180 grit to finish off the edge.






Cleanly shaves. Extremely toothy still despite such a high polish, and a little thinner behind the edge than it was previously.

@rick

S30V at under 200 grit doesn't need sharpening too often :)

[Guts]

Broke in a Venev pocket stone that I got in the other day. This thing is tiny I'm not great at sharpening while holding it in my hand so I designed and 3D printed a little base for it. Worked great for a quick touch up on my Native 5 in S30V. Thinking of designing a combo case/stand for it with a slot to hold a strop when I get the chance. Should be great for throwing in a bag.



On top of a standard 8x3 stone and also shot with a Ladybug for size comparison

[Steeltoez83]

On the go sharpening I did a few days ago. Fine DMT diafold 600 and a pocket spyderco brown stone on my rex45 native chief.

[Cl1ff]

This is the mostly current state of my dad’s Endura 4. He likes combo edges and tends to abuse knives, especially their point, so I figured the thick geometry of this knife was a good match.
After almost a year, it has held up really well!

I have sharpened it three of four times, mostly the plain edge section.

The last I touched it up was maybe a month ago.

I give it a coarse shaving edge right off of the Spyderco 400 grit CBN plate because that tends to help the edge keep some aggression. My dad is the type to not like things to be “too sharp”, but he seems ok with edges like this.

I’m still developing my freehand sharpening, so it’s not perfect, but this edge was my best I’ve been able to achieve on this knife. It could cut paper towels pretty well. I find edges of this thickness to be a pain to sharpen, but it’s not something I can’t do and improve on with practice.

His new job seems to have reduced the amount he uses his knife daily, so this time it was still mostly sharp. I left it as is after cleaning up the rust. I think it had some time in salt water while dealing with a couple feet of storm surge.

That’s one reason why I’d like to see a combo edge Salt knife.

I’ve touched up the serrations a couple times, but those have generally experienced much less wear and deformation than the tip of the knife (which I’ve even already repaired once).
You can tell the serrations are ground on a wheel and slightly hollow because the stones have only touched the apex and the shoulders so far.

That big stain on the blade appeared early on and I’m not sure why. My dad sometimes cuts pretty gnarly stuff while working.
I’ve seen similar staining on vg-10 in an old thread on this forum, but I don’t think anything conclusive came to light.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I only clean it when the operation is compromised. This time, I think the rust was enough to hinder the self-close and make opening pretty stiff. It’s back to being nice and snappy now.

[Guts]

This is the mostly current state of my dad’s Endura 4. He likes combo edges and tends to abuse knives, especially their point, so I figured the thick geometry of this knife was a good match.
After almost a year, it has held up really well!

I have sharpened it three of four times, mostly the plain edge section.

The last I touched it up was maybe a month ago.

I give it a coarse shaving edge right off of the Spyderco 400 grit CBN plate because that tends to help the edge keep some aggression. My dad is the type to not like things to be “too sharp”, but he seems ok with edges like this.

I’m still developing my freehand sharpening, so it’s not perfect, but this edge was my best I’ve been able to achieve on this knife. It could cut paper towels pretty well. I find edges of this thickness to be a pain to sharpen, but it’s not something I can’t do and improve on with practice.

His new job seems to have reduced the amount he uses his knife daily, so this time it was still mostly sharp. I left it as is after cleaning up the rust. I think it had some time in salt water while dealing with a couple feet of storm surge.

That’s one reason why I’d like to see a combo edge Salt knife.

I’ve touched up the serrations a couple times, but those have generally experienced much less wear and deformation than the tip of the knife (which I’ve even already repaired once).
You can tell the serrations are ground on a wheel and slightly hollow because the stones have only touched the apex and the shoulders so far.

That big stain on the blade appeared early on and I’m not sure why. My dad sometimes cuts pretty gnarly stuff while working.
I’ve seen similar staining on vg-10 in an old thread on this forum, but I don’t think anything conclusive came to light.

That's a well worn knife. Looks similar to the condition I've found some of my dad's knives in. He doesn't take care of them at all, cuts some crazy stuff that damages the edge terribly, and somehow gets stainless steel to rust lol. I suppose it's an excuse to sharpen something though. Nice work

[Wandering_About]

It's been entirely too long since I carried my S110V PM2, so gave it a quick touch up today. Personally I really enjoy S110V, with good technique and abrasives it sharpens up pretty well, to me. I spent a few minutes on a 1000 grit diamond stone then cleaned it up on a strop with 1 micron diamond. It doesn't deburr as well as some steels, but it's plenty manageable for me and always comes up very sharp for me in the end. Gonna have to use this knife more often. Also, I'm one of those oddballs that loves the blurple G10.

[Erich]

I want to get a Work Sharp Precision Adjust but don't know which one to get. Is the base model good enough or is the elite model worth the extra money? I know there is also a pro version but I don't think I want to spend that much.

It's not very useful. You have a very small range of motion and fine ceramics clog quickly which matters because you have to jump from an extra fine diamond to a extra fine ceramic, a huge grit jump. Worksharp sets up the fine ceramic for heavy metal removal but it is not designed for that kind of work.

Get an Edge Pro. The water stones that come with it are ok but if you are not careful you can over polish the edge. Buy a Sigma Power stone like a 10k grit from Gritomatic and you'll be good; grind away with the stock waterstones and then finish with the Sigma Power. Gritomatic sells tons of stones and plates for Edge Pro.

[TkoK83Spy]

I want to get a Work Sharp Precision Adjust but don't know which one to get. Is the base model good enough or is the elite model worth the extra money? I know there is also a pro version but I don't think I want to spend that much.

It's not very useful. You have a very small range of motion and fine ceramics clog quickly which matters because you have to jump from an extra fine diamond to a extra fine ceramic, a huge grit jump. Worksharp sets up the fine ceramic for heavy metal removal but it is not designed for that kind of work.

Get an Edge Pro. The water stones that come with it are ok but if you are not careful you can over polish the edge. Buy a Sigma Power stone like a 10k grit from Gritomatic and you'll be good; grind away with the stock waterstones and then finish with the Sigma Power. Gritomatic sells tons of stones and plates for Edge Pro.

I have to 100% disagree with you on the WorkSharp. I've reprofiled many of mine, and friends knives using the base model Precison Adjust, but with the upgrade kit that includes other grits. Not the newest, beefier released model they have.

For the price, it's really tough to beat. Even with its limitations. Light pressure and you shouldn't have any problems. I've used it on some of my favorite knives with great results.

[Coastal]

I have to second what Rick said. The Workshop Precision Adjust has to be the best bargain available for people who want a guided system. I bought one at Rick's suggestion, and have used it a lot over the past 2 years or so, K390, S110V, S90V, M390, M4, you name it. It's affordable, does a nice job, easy to use, and replacement stones are dirt cheap.

[vivi]

Getting more comfortable sharpening with my belt sander. Been practicing on cheap knives like my SRK's and Kiwi's. Also reprofiled a Perrin Le Baby Bowie that wasn't sharp 1/2" from the heel on back. Now its sharp the full length.

This is saving tremendous amounts of time. Just setting edges on 120 grit belts then using a fine ceramic rod to clean up the burr.