St. Nick’s Exclusive red and black Goddard!

[BIGSTRETCH]

I was thinking I'd get one of these, but I'm carrying the S90V CF Siren today and I can't really see much of a difference between the two.

It’s funny because my thought process was similar and I reached the opposite conclusion. I like the siren and like the idea of the goddard essentially being a lighter weight version of it. To be fair, it doesn’t take much for me to bite on any St. Nick’s exclusives in 4v steel.

The grind seems fare more thinner to me too ^^ I won't know until I get it but I dredd the BTE thickness of my Siren once it'll have been sharpened a lot !

I agree, it is a beast of a knife for something designed for fisherman's use... Maybe it is not so out of the ordinary for big game Saltwater folks, but for me it doesn't begin to resemble anything that I really want to filet a fish with. I just treat it like an overbuilt, workhorse blade.

My latest preferred plan of action on anything like this, especially if stainless, is to embrace the heft and put a nasty 20 dps edge on it. Keeping it really coarse is key, like no more than #600 grit, so you do not lose biting aggression.

[Mr_Whiskerz]

My latest preferred plan of action on anything like this, especially if stainless, is to embrace the heft and put a nasty 20 dps edge on it. Keeping it really coarse is key, like no more than #600 grit, so you do not lose biting aggression.

One of the things I really like about this knife is its comparative lack of heft. It's the size of an Endura, but weighs less than an Endela.

[Wartstein]

....

One of the things I really like about this knife is its comparative lack of heft. It's the size of an Endura, but weighs less than an Endela.

You are right, and I have not carried anything else since I got the Goddard. Feels both light AND sturdy, but not "hefty".

That said:

Sounds like the Pac Salt 2 (basically a linerless Endura 4 with some minor differences like thumb hole diameter, steepness of the ramp ...) could be for you : 2.6 oz for the ffg LC version, 2.8 oz for the hollow sabre H1 version

As well as the comparable-in-size Stretch Xl LW with its 2.7 oz.

The Goddard with its 2.9 oz would actually be the "heaviest" of the bunch

[Wartstein]

I found this ten year old short vid (link below) somehow "nostalgicly nice" to watch:
It was made by "our" Wouters / Mr. Blonde and in it Eric shows and explains the FRN ffg Goddard sprint (back then just a prototype and in VG10) at shot show 2013...

https://youtu.be/cBtW810MM7s

[Mr_Whiskerz]

....

One of the things I really like about this knife is its comparative lack of heft. It's the size of an Endura, but weighs less than an Endela.

You are right, and I have not carried anything else since I got the Goddard. Feels both light AND sturdy, but not "hefty".

That said:

Sounds like the Pac Salt 2 (basically a linerless Endura 4 with some minor differences like thumb hole diameter, steepness of the ramp ...) could be for you : 2.6 oz for the ffg LC version, 2.8 oz for the hollow sabre H1 version

As well as the comparable-in-size Stretch Xl LW with its 2.7 oz.

The Goddard with its 2.9 oz would actually be the "heaviest" of the bunch

I'm not after the absolute lightest knife I can find, but I have considered the Atlantic Salt because of the one piece construction and the barrel bolt clip.

I'm DEFINITELY anticipating whatever steel the S2XL LW will be released in next!

[Bemo]

Oh you know it will be K390. Hard competition between my Goddard and the S2XL LW right now. I'm alternating days.

[z1r]

Oh you know it will be K390. Hard competition between my Goddard and the S2XL LW right now. I'm alternating days.

Sounds like me. Both different but very appealing in their own ways. I count myself lucky to be able to own both!

Personally, I'd love to see a LW S2XL in Cruwear but agree that K390 may be more likely and would be a great steel!

[Wartstein]

Oh you know it will be K390. Hard competition between my Goddard and the S2XL LW right now. I'm alternating days.

My Goddard and I are in the honeymoon phase, but when that is over it could very well be the same for me... Goddard having an a bit stronger tip and for me weirdo better choke up area than the Stretch XL choil, but the Stretch has its teeth going for it...

[BIGSTRETCH]

I still need to carry the Goddard to be honest. I'm sure it would have seen more pocket time had I not picked up an FRN Stretch XL around the same time. Gotta love that thin distal taper of a Spyderco clip point. Really allows the best of both worlds. Keeps it thin and slicey near the tip.

[Ramonade]

Little update, the other thread being more about food prepping, I don't want to add infos that don't match the subject.

I've been using it when making scales for the Watu, Smock and Tenacious. I use it to cut micarta after drilling holes, stepped pocket for pivot screws, etc. It's very, very aggressive on the edge. I rolled it twice and microchipped it too. But literally 3 to 4 passes on a venev F400 brought it back very well.
Stropping could be good for maintaining that kind of steel, I do not know since I damage the edge before I dull it most of the time

It might get a 20 dps edge, for what I use it for it would be better. It just came from factory with a 14 and 16 degree edge so I went for 15 dps while reprofiling. I might put a micro bevel at 20 and let it rise to become the full bevel. It will be ugly, but it'll work wonder IMO.

[Traditional.Sharpening]

I was thinking I'd get one of these, but I'm carrying the S90V CF Siren today and I can't really see much of a difference between the two.

It’s funny because my thought process was similar and I reached the opposite conclusion. I like the siren and like the idea of the goddard essentially being a lighter weight version of it. To be fair, it doesn’t take much for me to bite on any St. Nick’s exclusives in 4v steel.

The grind seems fare more thinner to me too ^^ I won't know until I get it but I dredd the BTE thickness of my Siren once it'll have been sharpened a lot !

I agree, it is a beast of a knife for something designed for fisherman's use... Maybe it is not so out of the ordinary for big game Saltwater folks, but for me it doesn't begin to resemble anything that I really want to filet a fish with. I just treat it like an overbuilt, workhorse blade.

My latest preferred plan of action on anything like this, especially if stainless, is to embrace the heft and put a nasty 20 dps edge on it. Keeping it really coarse is key, like no more than #600 grit, so you do not lose biting aggression.

Unless you are cutting metal with the Goddard then 20 DPS is extremely obtuse in my view, even for hard use. You can drop all the way down to 10 DPS (with higher micro-bevel to stabilize apex) if you're not chopping. If you really are doing difficult things with the knife like digging, etc. 15 DPS will more than handle that. All you are doing by taking it to 20 DPS is deciding that this 'knife' is not really going to perform like a knife, much closer to a cold chisel at that geometry. This whole idea of a 'hard use' knife being 20 DPS+ is in actual reality what should be known as a 'hard to use' knife. That doesn't sound so nice.

Even companies that make what I would call (and they advertise themselves) EXTREME use knives, such as Busse Combat and Carothers Performance Knives are running edge geometry around 17 DPS these days. CPK has a video of them chiseling through heavy gauge nails with minimal damage. 17 DPS is still what I would call an axe-like grind and I have ground 4 lb double-bit felling axes at 14 DPS with no reported issues in chopping to the user. The axe of course gets very thick behind that apex bevel but the apex itself does not need to have such strength on any tool unless it will be cutting metal.

[ramblinwreck]

I missed the sale but have a chance to pick one up for $150. Worth it or pass?

[jwbnyc]

$25.00 over what they went for.. pretty good. Taxes, shipping, duty?

That’s not bad imo.

Depends on how much you want it, and whether there are other charges involved.

[Wartstein]

I missed the sale but have a chance to pick one up for $150. Worth it or pass?

To me 100% worth it!!

What you can expect (and have to decide if you want that):

- Very thin handle and carry, but sill great ergos
- Under 3 oz for an endura-ish sized knife, but feels really solid
- 4 V really impresses me so far (but I am not a steel expert compared to many others here)
- Great blade shape, with precise, but not TOO thin tip
- On the slightly negative side: Mine has a bit more lock rock than most of my Enduras. Not substantially and to me personally no issue at all and could be just my example.

... and I am pretty sure there are lots of people out there (on the secondary market) who got to love that model so much that you could easily sell it as a backup to one of those folks should you not want to keep the Goddard (to be clear: NOT (!) talking about me, this is not a "hidden" purchase / sale thing).

[Mendozamike89]

I missed the sale but have a chance to pick one up for $150. Worth it or pass?

Definitely worth it if still available I'd say.

[ramblinwreck]

I grabbed it, thanks!

[Ramonade]

Unless you are cutting metal with the Goddard then 20 DPS is extremely obtuse in my view, even for hard use. You can drop all the way down to 10 DPS (with higher micro-bevel to stabilize apex) if you're not chopping. If you really are doing difficult things with the knife like digging, etc. 15 DPS will more than handle that. All you are doing by taking it to 20 DPS is deciding that this 'knife' is not really going to perform like a knife, much closer to a cold chisel at that geometry. This whole idea of a 'hard use' knife being 20 DPS+ is in actual reality what should be known as a 'hard to use' knife. That doesn't sound so nice.

Even companies that make what I would call (and they advertise themselves) EXTREME use knives, such as Busse Combat and Carothers Performance Knives are running edge geometry around 17 DPS these days. CPK has a video of them chiseling through heavy gauge nails with minimal damage. 17 DPS is still what I would call an axe-like grind and I have ground 4 lb double-bit felling axes at 14 DPS with no reported issues in chopping to the user. The axe of course gets very thick behind that apex bevel but the apex itself does not need to have such strength on any tool unless it will be cutting metal.

Well I still had some minor rolling and micro chipping after a reprofiling at 15dps (and I did not have a burr left at the apex).
I know 4V is supposed to be tought but getting damaged from sharpening a pencil and cutting a few micarta burrs (just canvas popping out from drilling holes) means I need a more durable edge.

Most of my edges are at 15 or 17 dps, I think I need a couple of edges on that steel before actually getting the performance it's supposed to have. I've been doing the same tasks with my S30V Chokwe and PM2 and they held pretty well, a bit better actually

[Traditional.Sharpening]

Unless you are cutting metal with the Goddard then 20 DPS is extremely obtuse in my view, even for hard use. You can drop all the way down to 10 DPS (with higher micro-bevel to stabilize apex) if you're not chopping. If you really are doing difficult things with the knife like digging, etc. 15 DPS will more than handle that. All you are doing by taking it to 20 DPS is deciding that this 'knife' is not really going to perform like a knife, much closer to a cold chisel at that geometry. This whole idea of a 'hard use' knife being 20 DPS+ is in actual reality what should be known as a 'hard to use' knife. That doesn't sound so nice.

Even companies that make what I would call (and they advertise themselves) EXTREME use knives, such as Busse Combat and Carothers Performance Knives are running edge geometry around 17 DPS these days. CPK has a video of them chiseling through heavy gauge nails with minimal damage. 17 DPS is still what I would call an axe-like grind and I have ground 4 lb double-bit felling axes at 14 DPS with no reported issues in chopping to the user. The axe of course gets very thick behind that apex bevel but the apex itself does not need to have such strength on any tool unless it will be cutting metal.

Well I still had some minor rolling and micro chipping after a reprofiling at 15dps (and I did not have a burr left at the apex).
I know 4V is supposed to be tought but getting damaged from sharpening a pencil and cutting a few micarta burrs (just canvas popping out from drilling holes) means I need a more durable edge.

Most of my edges are at 15 or 17 dps, I think I need a couple of edges on that steel before actually getting the performance it's supposed to have. I've been doing the same tasks with my S30V Chokwe and PM2 and they held pretty well, a bit better actually

I would want to resharpen and repeat that several times to be confident that what you are seeing is not a result of damaged steel in the coarse of processing/production. Did that edge shave arm hair easily in both directions when you had determined it was burr free?

[Ramonade]

I would want to resharpen and repeat that several times to be confident that what you are seeing is not a result of damaged steel in the coarse of processing/production. Did that edge shave arm hair easily in both directions when you had determined it was burr free?

Dang, I had written a big reply detailing everything yesterday and sent it. Apparently it did not go through...
I haven't had my coffee so I won't be as long this time .

The short answer is yes, it actually split hair in 3 length-wise which is usually what I aim for. I rarely go very in grit, this was a F400 edge. I sharpened it twice since then and will keep using it for the same tasks, time will tell.

And yeah I encountered this kind of situation with Seki's K390 twice, and other steels too. I'm just really unfamiliar with 4V. I only had one knife in it a month ago (3 now), from kizer. And it can handle pretty much everything.
The feedback on the stones feels like the same between that kizer and the Goddard, so the HT aren't too far apart. I sharpen a lot since it is my favorite dimension of this hobby. High carbide steels with poor HT have a way of telling you their life is miserable once you hit the stone with the blade

[Traditional.Sharpening]

I would want to resharpen and repeat that several times to be confident that what you are seeing is not a result of damaged steel in the coarse of processing/production. Did that edge shave arm hair easily in both directions when you had determined it was burr free?

Dang, I had written a big reply detailing everything yesterday and sent it. Apparently it did not go through...
I haven't had my coffee so I won't be as long this time .

The short answer is yes, it actually split hair in 3 length-wise which is usually what I aim for. I rarely go very in grit, this was a F400 edge. I sharpened it twice since then and will keep using it for the same tasks, time will tell.

And yeah I encountered this kind of situation with Seki's K390 twice, and other steels too. I'm just really unfamiliar with 4V. I only had one knife in it a month ago (3 now), from kizer. And it can handle pretty much everything.
The feedback on the stones feels like the same between that kizer and the Goddard, so the HT aren't too far apart. I sharpen a lot since it is my favorite dimension of this hobby. High carbide steels with poor HT have a way of telling you their life is miserable once you hit the stone with the blade

I would expect that this has the potential to be related to how you are sharpening. Can you describe to me your sharpening tools and how you grind the edge with those?