Sharpening 15v steel with less than $50 of supplies and why my guided system collects dust. (Baryonyx+CBN Plates)

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Ok, so I took this as a fun challenge since we started talking about the supposed necessity of guided systems for sharpening a knife like this.

This is a 15v Spyderco Manix 2. The cost of the knife was considerable, the cost of these sharpening stones is not for most. I believe you can purchase everything I used here for less than $50, including the gloves.


Preliminary/optional:
By far, the longest and most tedious part of this process is removing the Spyderco plunge grind where the edge just cuts off. That took me about 30-40 minutes to do with a bit of edge bevel evening and is the only reason the pinkish Baryonyx American Mutt stone was necessary here. The knife will never be this hard to sharpen again now that this is gone, and imo the edge is now better than factory and will only get better after a few successive sharpenings.

Sharpening:

The #600/#1000 grit plate in the picture is like $14 from WoodturnersWonders and uses CBN as an abrasive. You only need one, as it is double sided, but you see that I have a backup here and I would call that a necessity if you plan to use it a lot.

Grind on one side, grind on the other. Chasing the burr can be a nice indicator during small touchups, but you don’t really need to when removing this much steel. Once the new scratches replace the factory scratches, make sure that the bevels even out with a bit of back and forth blending strokes (one steady, focused swipe on one side, followed by one on the other side). I followed that with some light stropping on the #1000 side. This part of the process takes like an entire 10-15 minutes.

-It is fun to take this stuff further, I have an "amazon special" digital microscope and those led jewlers magnifyers and they sit around taking up space because it is just not necessary. Use your fingers, touch that thing and keep sharpening it until it is scary to do so.

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It even shines up a tiny bit up after 1-2 minutes of stropping. Completely unnecessary with a steel this hard imo, but maybe it refines the surface a little and inhibits oxidation or maybe it just looks prettier. I'm still on the fence with stropping.

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Now, the elephant in the room- the convexing is real, dude. I won’t say convexing never killed anybody, but I will say it does not hurt, especially on a knife with this hard of steel, steel that is capable of a high level of stability and acuteness (word???) at the apex.

I don’t know if I have to make a youtube video to prove to you that this knife is sharp, somebody please let me know if that is the case. This thing sticks with the three finger test, which is good enough for me.

If you want an edge that looks like the factory edge, then do not sharpen the knife. No one should judge you for that and I certainly won’t! Heck, this knife had been fresh in the box until this afternoon when I decided to finally play with it (RIP, I know -_-;). I’ve never seen a manually sharpened edge, guided system or otherwise that I could not tell was touched up when compared to the factory edge. Why bother to keep it looking stock if you aren’t a reseller?

My experience is not vast, maybe 5-6 years of mostly kitchen knife touchups and a few guided system reprofiles here and there. I’ve got the lansky system with and without diamonds, had a few cheap edge pro knockoffs and some nice stones for them. Last winter, I finally invested in a Hapstone sharpener, it is a well built machine and hopefully it will prove worthy of the purchase in time, but like I imagine a lot of people who get caught up in the guided system thing- I’ve found myself reverting back to the old fashioned stone-in-hand method because it is easy and just all around less of an ordeal.

So dive in and freehand/stone in hand sharpen! My shoulders suck, this isn’t a workout or anything, there really is not much to be afraid of after you’ve done a few cheaper knives.

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Sidenote: BBB + Spyderco killed it with this one, but I think that I like the AEB-L even better, which doesn’t make any sense. Easily my best sharpening experience to date has been with the AEB-L Mule. No need for diamonds or CBN, sharpens on almost anything and still holds the working edge well enough to be mentioned in the same breath as these CPM Big Boys. It is like discovering some sort of ancient Super-Technology after the Powder Metallurgied Wormhole I’ve been down the last few years.

[Manifestgtr]

This is the type of sharpening I LIVE for…freehand on inexpensive diamond plates, stropping with diamond compounds. I’ve sharpened all of my 15v this way and it works like a charm. Ive been using two-sided sharpals (325/1200) for the last 3-4 years…with the occasional dmt or atoma if I’m feeling saucy.

I like to finish on a ceramic ultrafine (or maybe a Shapton glass 2k) with a few squirts of diamond spray…really helps attack any remaining burr.

The one thing I’ve noticed about inexpensive diamond plates is that, as expected, they’re not always perfectly flat…you kind of get to know each individual plate as you use it. Some are nice and flat, others are a little wobbly along the edge, etc.

[vivi]

Nice write up. I'll try one of those CBN stones and see how well they work for me. Sounds like a good deal!

I use a $12 system for all my pocket knives. I guess you could call it a $6 system as I only use the two lowest grit sides.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-sided-d ... 92867.html

M4, S30V, S90V, S110V, Maxamet, 4V.....all get shaving sharp right off the 300 grit side. I don't even bother going beyond that at this point because if the 300 grit edge can shave why bother? Edge retention is killer compared to higher polished finishes.

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This is the type of sharpening I LIVE for…freehand on inexpensive diamond plates, stropping with diamond compounds. I’ve sharpened all of my 15v this way and it works like a charm. Ive been using two-sided sharpals (325/1200) for the last 3-4 years…with the occasional dmt or atoma if I’m feeling saucy.

I like to finish on a ceramic ultrafine (or maybe a Shapton glass 2k) with a few squirts of diamond spray…really helps attack any remaining burr.

The one thing I’ve noticed about inexpensive diamond plates is that, as expected, they’re not always perfectly flat…you kind of get to know each individual plate as you use it. Some are nice and flat, others are a little wobbly along the edge, etc.

Thanks for the tips! Honestly, I've never done anything close to 15V and it went swimmingly. I will have to whip out the Shaptons next time, but I wanted to stick with a harder abrasive for the higher grits, some say that improves long term performance, I don't know though..

Hah, these were rough and needed broken in for sure. Grinding the plunge out of 15v will do that for you quickly.

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Nice write up. I'll try one of those CBN stones and see how well they work for me. Sounds like a good deal!

I use a $12 system for all my pocket knives. I guess you could call it a $6 system as I only use the two lowest grit sides.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-sided-d ... 92867.html

M4, S30V, S90V, S110V, Maxamet, 4V.....all get shaving sharp right off the 300 grit side. I don't even bother going beyond that at this point because if the 300 grit edge can shave why bother? Edge retention is killer compared to higher polished finishes.

You've done a lot more of the different super high vanadium steels than I have so far, and with even more basic tools. You will like the plates, and the CBN too I think. Thank you for the encouragement.

[Erion929]

Nice read and good tips Now the hard part….finding a Manix 2 in 15V

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Nice read and good tips Now the hard part….finding a Manix 2 in 15V

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Hey, thanks! Check out the Factory Seconds sale. They have 'em! I'm not sure if they're still going to be there once the factory store site settles down.

[Erion929]

Nice read and good tips Now the hard part….finding a Manix 2 in 15V

.

Hey, thanks! Check out the Factory Seconds sale. They have 'em! I'm not sure if they're still going to be there once the factory store site settles down.

Yeah, tried for over 2 hours…even had 1 in my cart…. wouldn’t let me checkout due to “Fraud suspicion or VPN issue” when I’m in the U.S., don’t use VPN, and have bought on the site before. Otherwise, over 2 hrs. of connection issues. Crap
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Yeah, tried for over 2 hours…even had 1 in my cart…. wouldn’t let me checkout due to “Fraud suspicion or VPN issue” when I’m in the U.S., don’t use VPN, and have bought on the site before. Otherwise, over 2 hrs. of connection issues. Crap
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I feel your pain. That was a terrible way to spend half a day. I had planned for it, too. Maybe you can find one of the other 15v releases. Good luck in your search.

[bdblue]

If you want an edge that looks like the factory edge, then do not sharpen the knife.

Buyers seem to be suspicious of buying a knife that has been sharpened. I can only guess that they are concerned that the angles are messed up or maybe the heat treat was harmed by machine sharpening. So it is better not to touch the edge unless you are dedicated to keeping and using the knife. Then use the knife and when it needs to be sharpened, sharpen the knife. That's what they are made for. In my pocket I have a PM2 K390, with a factory edge that is now somewhat dull. I haven't gotten around to sharpening it but this is a knife I intend to keep and use so I will sharpen it myself.

Didn't this thread start with a $50 price limit? I use a DMT aligner system with diamond stones, and it is available now for under $50 online. It produces a uniform edge but is not completely foolproof to use and the edge is not real pretty like you could get from some guided systems.

[Ramonade]

I thought you had a dust collecting system installed near your sharpening spot !
I'm tired, I've been making Tenacious and Watu scales all day and my mind must be full of dust

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I thought you had a dust collecting system installed near your sharpening spot !
I'm tired, I've been making Tenacious and Watu scales all day and my mind must be full of dust

Haha! I'd definitely do that too if it was easy enough. The idea of inhaling all that removed metal freaks me out. I lubricate the **** out of everything, water isn't good enough on the guided systems either, needs to be viscous.

Now scale making is a skill I'd love to have. I really want good functional, lightweight set of wooden one scales for my Mules. They don't have to be pretty or anything, and actually, it is probably better if they aren't.

[bdblue]

Now scale making is a skill I'd love to have. I really want good functional, lightweight set of wooden one scales for my Mules. They don't have to be pretty or anything, and actually, it is probably better if they aren't.

It's not that hard to do- you should try it.

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Now scale making is a skill I'd love to have. I really want good functional, lightweight set of wooden one scales for my Mules. They don't have to be pretty or anything, and actually, it is probably better if they aren't.

It's not that hard to do- you should try it.

Hmm, where should I start? Woodcarving vids?

[Ramonade]

Now scale making is a skill I'd love to have. I really want good functional, lightweight set of wooden one scales for my Mules. They don't have to be pretty or anything, and actually, it is probably better if they aren't.

It's not that hard to do- you should try it.

Hmm, where should I start? Woodcarving vids?

There is an excellent thread in the Mule Subforum. It was created by Xplorer Aka Chad Kelly

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There is an excellent thread in the Mule Subforum. It was created by Xplorer Aka Chad Kelly

Cool, Thanks!!