Skeletonized Mule for Backpacking

[Tvrdy91]

Here’s a mule modified for lightweight backpacking. The index finger radius was reduced for comfort, the handle slimmed, the end bobbed & a middle oval ground. All edges heavily chamfered, then the handle was stonewashed (you can just see the two-tone difference between the matte handle and as-original blade), and the thumb area jimped. The skeletonized knife has a pleasant, almost buttery hand-feel although the thumb jimping is sharp; could be cord wrapped in the field for heavy use. However, if a trip goes as planned, knife use is minimal, so a ‘bare bones’ knife should work fine for 90% of backpacking use.

Weight was reduced from 2.8 to 2.4 oz, a 15% reduction. May not sound like much, but a 15% lowered weight sells ultralight backpacking gear! What I’m most happy about is the blade-for-weight ratio. It is in the same range as the lightweight Salts and the Bugout…except…it has a full tang and can therefore be used much harder!

Next up: Find a kydexer who can make me a lightweight sheath…suggestions?

As a regular backpacker who loves me some fixed blades, this knife is *chef's kiss*. I'm a bit of a newbie...would you mind detailing what kind of tools you needed to pull this off? Have my eyes on attempting something similar with a Mule Team 2

[Bolster]

As a regular backpacker who loves me some fixed blades, this knife is *chef's kiss*. I'm a bit of a newbie...would you mind detailing what kind of tools you needed to pull this off? Have my eyes on attempting something similar with a Mule Team 2

Certainly. As I recall:

• Zirconia grinding stones mounted in a mill to reshape the handle, particularly to re-radius the index finger area. I used a 7/8" diameter stone for a 7/16" radius (1).
  
  • "Chop Grinder" (2) to trim the butt.
  
  • Belt grinder (3) with Zirconia belts to slim the profile of the handle, reduce some of its "pregnancy," round the end.
  
  • Engraving bit in a mill to cut the thumb jimping.
  
  • A Dremel-style (4) cutting wheel to cut the area internal to the handle. Then grinding stones.
  
  • A 6-hr tumble with ceramic media to get the stonewash appearance on the handle area.

Footnotes:
(1) The original radius is 3/4" but who has a finger that's 1-1/2" in diameter ???
(2) A 5" hand grinder mounted in a chop jig. Swab with water to keep cool. I use a laser thermo and kept the temp below 106F.
(3) A belt grinder is like a belt sander on steroids. Might be able to do similar with a belt sander? Remember to use your zirconia sanding belts exclusively with stainless steel, don't use them on non-stainless steel or iron, or you will embed shards of non-stainless into your stainless.
(4) I use a Foredom flex shaft

Thanks for the Chef Kiss. Never got one of those before!!

I think you could pull off a modification without such extensive toolage as mine, but remember that you can ruin a drill press by giving it a significant side load. The mill makes it all (relatively) easy but a lot of patience with a Dremel and diamond bits might get you where you want to go. Please watch your temperatures. Use that laser thermo frequently and make sure you're keeping everything below "Phoenix in Summer" temperatures. Let us see your creation when you're finished!