Now since I assume that the heat treat is done after, not before the cladding (so with the already "sandwiched" blade/steel) this would mean indeed that there are more options for heat treating REX 45 (higher temperatures) than for SUS410/HAP 40... just how a layman sees it.
It's not possible to heat treat the steel before laminating because the laminating occurs at high temperature so it would wipe out any prior heat treatment.
Ok, thanks once more!!
So just as I assumed (without really knowing )
Concerning the topic of this thread, this actually means then that a disadvantage of laminated tool steels could be indeed the - at least potential - heat treat limitations that come with the lamination.
So should the optimal heat for treating a tool steel be higher than the laminate steel could take: Can´t be done....
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Interested. So it seems like there’s 1/ really only an option to do this for Japanese steels cost effectively and 2/ it limits the heat treat.
So laminated steels seem more like a different steel than just a coated variant of their laminated counterparts: they’re more stainless and heat treated differently.
If I recall discussions with Sal/Eric correctly, it depends on whether the maker has/uses a laser to blank the blades. Non-laminated is to tough to fine blank (punch press) cleanly, hence the use of laminated. Also it may depend upon available steel inventory.
If I recall discussions with Sal/Eric correctly, it depends on whether the maker has/uses a laser to blank the blades. Non-laminated is to tough to fine blank (punch press) cleanly, hence the use of laminated. Also it may depend upon available steel inventory.
nb
I am not an English native speaker, so I am not entirely sure if I understand correctly:
You mean "putting" the makers mark, specification of steel, "Seki City" or whatever on the blade does not work on very hard steels with "punching", but just with a laser, right?
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
If there is a disadvantage it's that under hard use the softer cladding steel scratches up and that will bug some people.
True, but others, like this guy, will love exactly that the cladding steel shows real use, gives the knife character and a "story" and together with the patina on the tool steel below a personal, individual, distinct look...
A bit like with burnt orange, right? Some love it, some hate it...
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
I am not an English native speaker, so I am not entirely sure if I understand correctly:
You mean "putting" the makers mark, specification of steel, "Seki City" or whatever on the blade does not work on very hard steels with "punching", but just with a laser, right?
Sorry to confuse, blanking (cutting out blades/parts from sheets of steel) can be accomplished by one of two major processes. Traditional fine blanking (think cookie cutter) or laser (think burning through the steel with a very powerful and very small beam of light). Certain exotic steels, (ZDP-189, HAP 40, Super Blue, etc.) are difficult to fine blank in solid, non-laminated form. So, makers that do not have a laser must blank them from a laminated steel which is much easier to cut as most of the blank is a steel with better fine blanking characteristics.
) 
