I use calipers and trigonometry to find the primary blade grind angle, and then the edge angle itself.
Primary Blade grind Angle = asin((TS/2)/BLW) * 180 / pi
Where TS = Spine Thickness, and BLW = Blade Width
So for my Manix, asin((.118/2)/1.300) * 180 / pi = 2.6 degrees
Then you can try to do the edge the same way, but you can only really get a ballpark number since the figures being off by a few thousandths really change the end result a lot...
Edge Bevel Angle = asín((BTET/2)/BVW) * 180 / pi
Where BTET = Behind The Edge Thickness, and BVW = Bevel Width
So on my Manix I had asin((.024/2)/.040) * 180 / pi = 17.4 degrees
But again, even if you can manage to take accurate measurements within +/- .001" (which most human beings can't) you can end up with quite large differences in the results. For example if you got .025" instead of .024" you'll get 18.2 degrees instead of 17.4. Or if the bevel was actually .042" you'd get 16.6 degrees.
So I just use the measurements at the edge to find the ball park, in this case somewhere around 16-18 degrees, and then use some angle wedges I have and the sharpie trick. You just need to remember to add the primary blade grind angle (2.6 degrees) to the angle of the wedge that matches. For me that was the 14 degree wedge, so 14 + 2.6 = 16.6 degrees.
If you don't have angle wedges, you can also use a stack of coins and measure the height of the stack that matches and use the same trig to find the angle that stack forces the blade to. So for example let's say you set the spine on a stack of pennies and then did the sharpie trick to test, and when the stack was .316" high it ground off all the sharpie. You'd know holding the spine at asin(.316/1.300) * 180 / pi = 14.06 degree hits the edge right. Then you again add the primary blade grind angle of 2.6 since holding the spine on the stack offsets it by that much, and you come out to 16.66 degrees.
So when I re-profiled mine, I used my 12 degree angle wedge as a reference. 12 + 2.6 = 14.2 degrees per side.
Of course you have to account for the variance in hand sharpening, so I just call it ~30 inclusive at that point.
I've never had a goniometer to confirm against, but learned this method when I went to school for machine tech for making tool bits and tapers on parts, so I am reasonably confident in its accuracy.



