Sharpmaker frustration.

[pjrocco]

Greetings,

Alright, I am gettimg extremly frustrated. I can not find what I'm doing wrong. I have watched the video like 10 times, read the manual like 30 times and still can't get it. (I've probably used the sharpmaker about 8 times in the last month)

It seems I'm actually dulling my knives.

I'm for sure keeping the blade 90 degrees to the block. I am doing a single smooth motion down the stone and pulling back at the same time. (using the whole stone)

I have been only using the fine and ultra fine stones since I don't let my knives get that dull.

I feel I'm doing everyhing picture perfect, but yet the knife seems to get duller.

The only thing I do feel is that on the left stone it makes a louder noise than the right stone. (I'm right handed) I also noticed that the left stone has more metal built up on it, than the right. I wondering if I'm applying to much pressure on the left stone and not enough on the right.

I'm just frustrated. :mad:

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[johns]

I'm not great with it, but I've been using one for the last couple of years.
You might try making sure the rods are clean - I wash them off with comet and a green scrubby pad with warm water - seems to help a bit.
Also I only sharpen on the back bevel angle and i only use the brown rods - not the white ones. I don't use much pressure either. I find that too much pressure and the white rods dull my knives - I'm sure its just that I'm not that good at it. I can't get them razor (hair shaving) sharp, but I can easily slice paper. Thaty's what I settle for now. Hope this helps.

[Zwaplat]

Strange, those things shouldn't happen at all.
Pjrocco, I suggest you do step 1 and 3 only. So on the corners of the brown and white stones (eventually on the ultrafine too, if you like). I know my knives don't get sharper by using the flat sides, and I suspect they even make 'em duller.
And best thing is, use an old knife to practice with. You'll get a click soon enough, and then sharpening will be a breeze.

[Senate]

some quick advice:
-put some balck magic marker on the edge of your blade and proceed as usual, you'll see where metal has been removed...
-if you're using the 30degree angle, you might want to try the 40.
-start with a plain edge knife, they're easier to start with.

[David Lowry]

Get a Lansky.

[ghostrider]

some quick advice:
-put some balck magic marker on the edge of your blade and proceed as usual, you'll see where metal has been removed...
-if you're using the 30degree angle, you might want to try the 40.
-start with a plain edge knife, they're easier to start with.

It also helps to have the ability to examine the edge. Radio Shack carry a lighted, mini-microscope for about $10. It will help you see the edge, where you hitting, where your missing. That, in conjunction with the marker should give you an idea of what's going on. Once you use the marker, you'll see where you are actually making contact.

[Zwaplat]

Microscope, $10. *Error, does not compute*. For heavens sake, buy a magnifying glass then, it'll be easier and give better image.

[Titus]

You may have burrs on the edges. Check the blades by feeling for burrs with your fingernail on the edge.

[HoB]

Actually the Microscope from Radioshack is really, really good. I warmly recommend it. Don't think of this as a full scale microscope, but the image is not to bad, and gives a much better idea of what is going on at the edge than a magnifying glass. But best is to have both. But most important I find to have a good, bright not too diffuse light to examine the edge under.

But all you need, pjrocco, is the marker "trick" that Senate spoke of. You are probably not sharpening the edge at all. What knife do you try to sharpen anyway? Probably the best to start with is a not too dull Spyderco factory edge.

[WORKER#9]

Pj I Had The Same Problem And I Just Found Some Crappy Kitchen Knives, And Any Old Soft Steeled Blade I Could And Went At It. Finally Some Really Old Knives Were Sharp Again. I Did This Over And Over And Experimented, Finally It Just Clicked And Now I Would Not Hesitate To Do Any Knife Or Steel. Starting With A Newer Harder Stainless Steel Is A Lot Tougher. Just My Experience Hope It Helps. You Will Get It Just Time And Practice. Worker

[pjrocco]

By looking at my Para I just sharpened last night.... I see that the bevel on one side is higher than the other... The right side is higher, so the side that works the left stone, also my strong side.... Of course, they were equal when I started... if that makes sense.

I'm going to try the marker trick tonight on an old POS 420 steel.

Thanks guys

[Senate]

Get a Lansky.

no curse words on the forum please :p :D

[jaislandboy]

Hey Rock,
I've been there, done that...I found reading Joe Talmadge's FAQ's to be extremely helpful see:http://www.knifeart.com/sharfaqbyjoe.html
I've ruined a Meadowlark (and a couple other knives :eek: ) learning how to use the 204 so Worker #9 's advice is Wise...I'll even admit to ruining a couple of the ABS bases for the sticks (the base developed a hairline crack b/w the slots for the sticks) by pressing too hard (Amanda at SFO reminded me to use 5 lbs or less!) on them while sharpening. In retrospect I was trying to reprofile too much with the Medium grit sticks so I broke down and got a pair of the Diamond Sticks!
This thread... http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.p ... sharpening was also real helpful concerning avoidance of rounding out the tips using the sharpmaker (especially Ted's and HoB's advice). I actually bought a fine grit :spyder: bench stone just for tip sharpening "freehand".
When using the corners of the sticks (to sharpen the closest 3/4 of the blade) I've actually gotten the best results by keeping the knife tipped up (towards the sky or dipping the handle down) by 30-45 degrees (at all times during the entire stroke) while pulling the knife down the stick, going as slow as possible, and keeping an eye on the spine of the blade to ensure that it's always vertical / perpendicular to the stick; to me it feels like keeping a pistol on target during the whole stroke so it really requires a steady hand!! I've even put a white towel under the table that the sharpmaker is on (as a contrasting background to the blade) so that I can see the spine of the blade better while sharpening and good lighting is a must!
It definitely helps to keep checking for that burr formation (as per Joe Talmadge's FAQ) frequently. I personally feel that getting proficient with the 204mf is an acquired skill (or maybe my hand/eye coordination is slipping! :p ) so keep pluggin at it and don't get frustrated! Well, good luck to you man, I'm looking forward to some more of your super Sunday Spydie Pics! :)

[Dr. Snubnose]

no curse words on the forum please :p :D

LOL Senate.....Thanks for the laugh...that was funny...... :D Doc

[Michael Cook]

:spyder: It sounds like you've rolled a burr from pushing too hard. Go back to the grey(brown?) stones to cut off the burr and work your way back up keeping your touch VERY light and even. As if you were shaving a baloon. :spyder:

[pjrocco]

Well after about 2 hours of trying, I think I finally got it...

I got my Para-military shaving sharp again. I wouldn't call it scary sharp, but it zips through boxes no problem and I can cut the hair off my arm with little effort.

Problem is, I was trying so many different things, I can't pin point what I did right.. hahah :D

I'll mess with it more tonight and see what happens.

Thanks for all the advice, lets hope it will be the only advice I need.

Thanks again,

[spyderknut]

I find S30V much more difficult to sharpen than VG10. Frequent touchups work better than letting the blade dull. I recently found myself making little progress with a 2nd hand Lum Chinese. Spyderco sharpened it up VERY nicely with about a 2 week turnaround.