If Spyderco would make something with these sort of blade shapes, I would be interested.
How About a Kiridashi
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Scandi Grind
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Re: How About a Kiridashi
Another similar design,
If Spyderco would make something with these sort of blade shapes, I would be interested.
If Spyderco would make something with these sort of blade shapes, I would be interested.
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man."
-- Old Norse proverb
-- Old Norse proverb
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JRinFL
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Re: How About a Kiridashi
I would not call either the Kizer above or the CS further above a Kiridashi.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
Friends call me Jim. As do my foes.
M.N.O.S.D. 0001
Re: How About a Kiridashi
The idea of a folding kiridashi is open to interpretation of course but it seems like it has started to seperate itself as it’s own unique category of folder. Size and edge angle appear to be some defining characteristics among most examples shared here. To me it looks like there could a viable market for a “folding kiridashi” from Spyderco. 
Re: How About a Kiridashi
they're more like reverse tanto blades than kiridashi. the cold steel is closer because it at least has the angled blade. it's not the right angle and it's not a chisel though. i agree that a folding kiridashi would be really cool if it was done right.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C191GP, C36GMCBK2, C11ZFRDBBK, C267BK, C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, K08BK, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
M398, H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C, MBS-26
current collection:
C191GP, C36GMCBK2, C11ZFRDBBK, C267BK, C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, K08BK, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
M398, H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C, MBS-26
Re: How About a Kiridashi
sal wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 8:26 pmHi Scandi Grind,
I think you should check out the available Kiridashi's on the market. You can purchase a hand forged fancy made in Japan Kiridashi for $20+, even in carbon.
I don't think it's a market where we could be effective. Hard to innovate a "better" Kiridashi?
sal
Sal, I don’t think you should innovate a better Kiridashi, but simply add Spyderco’s touch. SE, H1, fixed blade, FRN, a touch of your ergo magic and made in Japan of course. I’d be all over it.
Dane
“Stop buying your kids what you never had and start teaching them what you never knew!”
“Stop buying your kids what you never had and start teaching them what you never knew!”
Re: How About a Kiridashi
The steel is okay for my typical light daily use. Edge retention is somewhere between 8Cr13MoV and VG10. It's easy to touch up on the SharpMaker.
The backlock is easier to disengage than other Cold Steel models I've tried, though at the same time it feels less refined, even gritty.