That handle is thin! Length to spare too. I can get a full grip behind the first finger groove. I guess that adds reach and leverage, but didn’t realize that until I had it in hand.
Pretty good transition to SE on this one.
With the pronounced, convex belly this C-60 model has you can just expect extremely aggressive cutting with the full serrated version. Even the original VG-10 full SE model was known for being a very aggressive and I do believe a lot of that is attributed to that particular design. The C-60 is also a great plain edged blade as well.
This was a really great model to bring back. I hope this ends up being a great investment for Spyderco themselves.
You would have to look at several of Spyderco's models ( past and present) to find one that even comes close to the performance of the C-60 Ayoob model. The C-60 for years was probably the most under-rated and Under-appreciated model they ever came out with IMO.
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but FYI - non-standard hardware alert!!
Pivot screw is T8, handle screws are T5 (!), and the pocket clip screws are Phillips.. I think maybe technically JIS, but my Wiha PH1 bit worked just fine for changing the clip orientation..
My lock bar screw (T5) was a little loose out of the box, I'd recommend checking and tightening or loctite-ing as needed..
You are all aweful miserable people and I don't like you very much.
I was NOT going to buy this.
(Sorry JD I ordered the PE)
Lol...I was not in to buy one either. Then Saturday I held one and went wow! I had a dream Saturday night about it. Today I went and grabbed one from the SFO after work. Pleased as punch and am really glad I did buy one. I got to use my full spyderco punch card too!
Behold! There are only so many like it but this one is mine!
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but FYI - non-standard hardware alert!!
Pivot screw is T8, handle screws are T5 (!), and the pocket clip screws are Phillips.. I think maybe technically JIS, but my Wiha PH1 bit worked just fine for changing the clip orientation..
My lock bar screw (T5) was a little loose out of the box, I'd recommend checking and tightening or loctite-ing as needed..
And you have to take the pocket clip off to disassemble. It’s not the end of the world, but I found out the hard way that, unless it is absolutely necessary, taking apart that knife isn’t worth the hassle.
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but FYI - non-standard hardware alert!!
Pivot screw is T8, handle screws are T5 (!), and the pocket clip screws are Phillips.. I think maybe technically JIS, but my Wiha PH1 bit worked just fine for changing the clip orientation..
My lock bar screw (T5) was a little loose out of the box, I'd recommend checking and tightening or loctite-ing as needed..
Thanks for the heads up. Ordered a T5 wiha driver to go with my wiha set.
-Matta.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
i'm getting fairly strong resistance on these clip screws…
This was the easiest part for me. I just had to get the right driver first.
this is why I bought a set of wiha torx screwdrivers with the big handles. Haven't stripped a screw since. I've had screws that wouldn't turn with them due to loctite, but you can tell pretty quick. You can put a lot of force into them without it slipping/ stripping. You get to a certain point and realize the screw isn't going to turn. Then it's either boiling water, soldering iorn, hammer tapping, or send it to Spyderco and have them loosen the screws for you (I did this with a P'kal, quick turn around time).
-Matta.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
Because I know it's her favorite model too. 
