Sharpmaker questions

[Ranger_Ike]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

[Fly Fishing Rick]

Not sure there's any set rules but I prefer to set the edge angle I like with a guided sharpening system then use the sharpmaker at the next closest angle, which creates a micro bevel. I continue to touch up at the same angle until the micro bevel gets too wide, then usually back to the guided system for a full sharpening. I'm not sure about other people, but I think of reprofiling an edge as taking it down to a lower sharpening angle, not changing the blade shape or grind style. I hope this helps.

[yablanowitz]

When we say "reprofile" we generally mean cutting an entire new bevel. Sharpening or "micro bevelling" means working just the very edge at a greater included angle. If your factory edge is over 20° per side, you'll have to cut an entire new bevel on the SharpMaker. If your factory edge is 17° per side you'll be able to sharpen on the SharpMaker at least for a while before you've changed the entire bevel to 20°per side.

[vivi]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

If you don't know the angle....

- color the entire edge bevel in sharpie
- try 15 degrees. if it just hits the top of the bevel, that's too low of an angle.
- try 20 degrees. if it just hits the very apex of the edge, it's too obtuse of an angle.

When you reprofile a knife the entire edge bevel is altered. If you sharpen at too obtuse of an angle you're adding a microbevel (e.g. sharpening a 15 degree edge at 20 degrees).

You don't have to match the angles exactly to the sharpmaker. There's nothing wrong with sharpening a 17 degree edge at 20 degrees. It will cut fine if you refine the apex well.

Regardless of the angle you use, remember to use a light touch, especially on the finishing strokes. The harder you press the worse your edge will be.

For reprofiling I would not recommend the sharpmaker. I would invest in some diamond bench stones.

[TkoK83Spy]

I agree with the others. I always sharpie my edge and see where I'm at. Hoping both sides are at the same angle, but many times that's not the case. I'll then use either my DMT bench stone or Precision Adjust guided system to set them the same or take them down to my preferred edge angle ( normally anywhere from 14 dps - 17 dps)

That's mainly so I know they are the same on each side, therefore much easier to maintain. Necessary, no...but it helps with future sharpening sessions or touch ups.

[Bemo]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

If you don't know the angle....

- color the entire edge bevel in sharpie
- try 15 degrees. if it just hits the top of the bevel, that's too low of an angle.
- try 20 degrees. if it just hits the very apex of the edge, it's too obtuse of an angle.

When you reprofile a knife the entire edge bevel is altered. If you sharpen at too obtuse of an angle you're adding a microbevel (e.g. sharpening a 15 degree edge at 20 degrees).

You don't have to match the angles exactly to the sharpmaker. There's nothing wrong with sharpening a 17 degree edge at 20 degrees. It will cut fine if you refine the apex well.

Regardless of the angle you use, remember to use a light touch, especially on the finishing strokes. The harder you press the worse your edge will be.

For reprofiling I would not recommend the sharpmaker. I would invest in some diamond bench stones.

Wish I had known this highlighted bit 20 years ago. And I would say that's rule is regardless what your sharpening system is.

[Ranger_Ike]

Not sure there's any set rules but I prefer to set the edge angle I like with a guided sharpening system then use the sharpmaker at the next closest angle, which creates a micro bevel. I continue to touch up at the same angle until the micro bevel gets too wide, then usually back to the guided system for a full sharpening. I'm not sure about other people, but I think of reprofiling an edge as taking it down to a lower sharpening angle, not changing the blade shape or grind style. I hope this helps.

Thank you that helps a lot. I have a KME that I have used to reprofile a few knives. I stopped using it because I found it really hard to try to find the exact angle the second time, when I wanted to resharpen/touch up a knife. I use the sharpie method but seems I can never find the right angle to match from heel to tip again. Then I worry I’m going to remove too much steel if I am off a bit. I tried logging the angles I used, but find the angle changes from where I started to when I was done. Guessing this is from the shoulder coming down lower after sharpening?

Do you find it to be a big issue after you microbevel a few times, having to remove a large amount of steel to get your preferred angle back? It seems like a microbevel would mean you would need to take quite a bit off the shoulder to regain the angle you started with.

Also, do you still form a burr and remove it and get it sharp, even though you are going to be making a microbevel? Or do you just get it to where a burr fist starts and then move on?

Thanks again!

[Ranger_Ike]

When we say "reprofile" we generally mean cutting an entire new bevel. Sharpening or "micro bevelling" means working just the very edge at a greater included angle. If your factory edge is over 20° per side, you'll have to cut an entire new bevel on the SharpMaker. If your factory edge is 17° per side you'll be able to sharpen on the SharpMaker at least for a while before you've changed the entire bevel to 20°per side.

Thank you! Guessing your comment about being over 20 deg is because the shoulder would hit, not allowing a microbevel?

[yablanowitz]

Yep. If your factory bevel is 23° per side and the SharpMaker is 20° per side, all you are going to hit is the shoulder at the top of the edge bevel. You won't get to the apex until you cut a whole new bevel at 20°.

[Ranger_Ike]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

If you don't know the angle....

- color the entire edge bevel in sharpie
- try 15 degrees. if it just hits the top of the bevel, that's too low of an angle.
- try 20 degrees. if it just hits the very apex of the edge, it's too obtuse of an angle.

When you reprofile a knife the entire edge bevel is altered. If you sharpen at too obtuse of an angle you're adding a microbevel (e.g. sharpening a 15 degree edge at 20 degrees).

You don't have to match the angles exactly to the sharpmaker. There's nothing wrong with sharpening a 17 degree edge at 20 degrees. It will cut fine if you refine the apex well.

Regardless of the angle you use, remember to use a light touch, especially on the finishing strokes. The harder you press the worse your edge will be.

For reprofiling I would not recommend the sharpmaker. I would invest in some diamond bench stones.

Thank you for the help. Yes I currently use the sharpie method to try and make sure I’m hitting the angle right. As I just stated in another reply, I do have a KME but I have trouble just touching up with it. I also have a set of spyderco stones, medium and fine. And I have a fine DMT diamond stone. The DMT I bought after watching your videos and have tried to use your method of right hand and then left hand to touch up my edges. I am still practicing, and struggle with my left side maintaining a consistent angle. I get nervous on more expensive knives, so I thought about getting the sharpmaker to use in those.

[Ranger_Ike]

I agree with the others. I always sharpie my edge and see where I'm at. Hoping both sides are at the same angle, but many times that's not the case. I'll then use either my DMT bench stone or Precision Adjust guided system to set them the same or take them down to my preferred edge angle ( normally anywhere from 14 dps - 17 dps)

That's mainly so I know they are the same on each side, therefore much easier to maintain. Necessary, no...but it helps with future sharpening sessions or touch ups.

Thank you for the reply. Once you set your preferred angle, what do you do for maintenance? Also, do you add a microbevel?

[Fly Fishing Rick]

Not sure there's any set rules but I prefer to set the edge angle I like with a guided sharpening system then use the sharpmaker at the next closest angle, which creates a micro bevel. I continue to touch up at the same angle until the micro bevel gets too wide, then usually back to the guided system for a full sharpening. I'm not sure about other people, but I think of reprofiling an edge as taking it down to a lower sharpening angle, not changing the blade shape or grind style. I hope this helps.

Thank you that helps a lot. I have a KME that I have used to reprofile a few knives. I stopped using it because I found it really hard to try to find the exact angle the second time, when I wanted to resharpen/touch up a knife. I use the sharpie method but seems I can never find the right angle to match from heel to tip again. Then I worry I’m going to remove too much steel if I am off a bit. I tried logging the angles I used, but find the angle changes from where I started to when I was done. Guessing this is from the shoulder coming down lower after sharpening?

Do you find it to be a big issue after you microbevel a few times, having to remove a large amount of steel to get your preferred angle back? It seems like a microbevel would mean you would need to take quite a bit off the shoulder to regain the angle you started with.

Also, do you still form a burr and remove it and get it sharp, even though you are going to be making a microbevel? Or do you just get it to where a burr fist starts and then move on?

Thanks again!

I use a lansky and know just what you mean, I just try to aim for as close to the middle of the blade to clamp every time and it's close enough. I do fully apex the edge if I'm going to take the time to take the edge all the way back down, but I get a lot of SM and strop touch ups before that's needed. You could also choose to just keep sharpening your edge at the 15 or 20° side on the SM until your edge is set at that angle and not worry about micro beveling and reprofiling. I do this with some knives, touch ups won't be as fast after a while but you should also never have to reprofile again unless you get a bad ding.

[vivi]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

If you don't know the angle....

- color the entire edge bevel in sharpie
- try 15 degrees. if it just hits the top of the bevel, that's too low of an angle.
- try 20 degrees. if it just hits the very apex of the edge, it's too obtuse of an angle.

When you reprofile a knife the entire edge bevel is altered. If you sharpen at too obtuse of an angle you're adding a microbevel (e.g. sharpening a 15 degree edge at 20 degrees).

You don't have to match the angles exactly to the sharpmaker. There's nothing wrong with sharpening a 17 degree edge at 20 degrees. It will cut fine if you refine the apex well.

Regardless of the angle you use, remember to use a light touch, especially on the finishing strokes. The harder you press the worse your edge will be.

For reprofiling I would not recommend the sharpmaker. I would invest in some diamond bench stones.

Thank you for the help. Yes I currently use the sharpie method to try and make sure I’m hitting the angle right. As I just stated in another reply, I do have a KME but I have trouble just touching up with it. I also have a set of spyderco stones, medium and fine. And I have a fine DMT diamond stone. The DMT I bought after watching your videos and have tried to use your method of right hand and then left hand to touch up my edges. I am still practicing, and struggle with my left side maintaining a consistent angle. I get nervous on more expensive knives, so I thought about getting the sharpmaker to use in those.

It gets easier with time. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes pure muscle memory and you can rebevel knives without thinking about it. I reset the edge on chef knives pretty often and don't worry about the angles, just eye ball it.

The DMT Fine is a nice stone. Mine is going on 20 years and still sees frequent use. Thinking about giving the X Fine a shot for more polished edges.

[Ranger_Ike]

It gets easier with time. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes pure muscle memory and you can rebevel knives without thinking about it. I reset the edge on chef knives pretty often and don't worry about the angles, just eye ball it.

The DMT Fine is a nice stone. Mine is going on 20 years and still sees frequent use. Thinking about giving the X Fine a shot for more polished edges.

That’s good to hear. Thank you. I bought the DMT after watching your videos and using those techniques has got me a lot better than when I started. Guessing building the muscle memory for me is just going to take a while on the left hand side. Thanks again.

[Bill1170]

I realize there are a ton of Sharpmaker threads out there but I have a few questions I can’t find exact answers for. Apologies if it’s been answered already.

Let say I have a factory knife. Not sure of angle. Might be 23 degrees per side. Might be 17. Does this matter for the Sharpmaker if the factory bevel doesn’t match any Sharpmaker setting? At this point are you just putting a secondary bevel on it and no big deal? Or do you have to reprofile the entire edge to match the sharpmaker angles first?

I know it’s mentioned for reprofiling it’s better with the diamond stones on harder steels. What I’m not sure about is when people mention “reprofiling” is that ANY change to the edge at all? Or does that refer to changing the entire bevel?

I hope that makes sense…

If you don't know the angle....

- color the entire edge bevel in sharpie
- try 15 degrees. if it just hits the top of the bevel, that's too low of an angle.
- try 20 degrees. if it just hits the very apex of the edge, it's too obtuse of an angle.

When you reprofile a knife the entire edge bevel is altered. If you sharpen at too obtuse of an angle you're adding a microbevel (e.g. sharpening a 15 degree edge at 20 degrees).

You don't have to match the angles exactly to the sharpmaker. There's nothing wrong with sharpening a 17 degree edge at 20 degrees. It will cut fine if you refine the apex well.

Regardless of the angle you use, remember to use a light touch, especially on the finishing strokes. The harder you press the worse your edge will be.

For reprofiling I would not recommend the sharpmaker. I would invest in some diamond bench stones.

Thank you for the help. Yes I currently use the sharpie method to try and make sure I’m hitting the angle right. As I just stated in another reply, I do have a KME but I have trouble just touching up with it. I also have a set of spyderco stones, medium and fine. And I have a fine DMT diamond stone. The DMT I bought after watching your videos and have tried to use your method of right hand and then left hand to touch up my edges. I am still practicing, and struggle with my left side maintaining a consistent angle. I get nervous on more expensive knives, so I thought about getting the sharpmaker to use in those.

It gets easier with time. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes pure muscle memory and you can rebevel knives without thinking about it. I reset the edge on chef knives pretty often and don't worry about the angles, just eye ball it.

The DMT Fine is a nice stone. Mine is going on 20 years and still sees frequent use. Thinking about giving the X Fine a shot for more polished edges.

Vivi, I have found that even the extra-extra-fine DMT doesn’t leave a polished bevel, despite being rated at 8000 grit. By contrast, my 3000 grit water stone provides a higher polish. The abrasive particles in the water stone break down into finer grit in the slurry, but the DMT remains constant.

By the same token, as your experiments with low-grit sharpening have shown, the toothy edges off diamond plates are very aggressive cutters.

[JAS777]

My once laser sharp elmax PM2 has become dull. Im terrible at sharpening knives and finally bought a sharpmaker. My question is will the stones that come with the sharpmaker sharpen elmax or will elmax just laugh at these stones n eat them for breakfast?

[metaphoricalsimile]

If you're needing to establish an entirely new apex I'd grab some diamond sharpmaker stones. If you're fine with a microbevel I think the brown stones will do fine, though Elmax has enough vanadium that sharpening with ceramics probably won't result in the best performance from the steel, you will be able to get it laser sharp again.

[JAS777]

Thank you. Im ok with the microbevel. I dont wanna try to reprofile it because im 100% sure ill totally ruin the knife. When i say im terrible at sharpening knives i mean it. Ive dulled razor sharp facory edges just by using a leather strop lmao. Ill try the stock stones that come with the sharpmaker.

[cabfrank]

Definitely watch the video. It will explain the procedure and make it much easier.

[James Y]

Thank you. Im ok with the microbevel. I dont wanna try to reprofile it because im 100% sure ill totally ruin the knife. When i say im terrible at sharpening knives i mean it. Ive dulled razor sharp facory edges just by using a leather strop lmao. Ill try the stock stones that come with the sharpmaker.

If you're using heavy pressure during sharpening, don't. Use a light touch, and don't run the tip of the blade off the stones. End the stroke with the tip in the center of the stone. Using heavy pressure causes premature wear on the edge, and running the tip of the blade off the stone risks rounding it off.

Jim