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zhyla wrote: You can turn any SE blade into PE but not the other way around![]()
There were a few issues, I was using the CBN stones which have a deeper scratch pattern than the brown or white rods, and second I was sharpening very fast while dragging the knife across the stones. The vertical angle I was holding the knife at was also causing me to drag the teeth more and the scallops less.
This is the perfect demonstration of why SE blades should only be sharpened flat with the primary bevel on the back side of the serrations.
Joshua J. wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 6:41 amThis is the perfect demonstration of why SE blades should only be sharpened flat with the primary bevel on the back side of the serrations.
Rather than making the edge bevel thicker, grinding the back side just makes the edge thinner and it cuts better.
And rather than erasing the shape of the scallops, you keep the factory scallops through the entire useful life of the knife.
If you just keep them in the sock drawer where they belong everything will be okay.
Wartstein wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 10:43 amJoshua J. wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 6:41 amThis is the perfect demonstration of why SE blades should only be sharpened flat with the primary bevel on the back side of the serrations.
Rather than making the edge bevel thicker, grinding the back side just makes the edge thinner and it cuts better.
And rather than erasing the shape of the scallops, you keep the factory scallops through the entire useful life of the knife.
Not so sure about that: Only "grinding the backside" will also remove the acute SE chisel grind and make the inclusive angle more obtuse, won't it?
Why would the inclusive angle not change if an ffg (SE) chisel grind is only sharpened on the "backside"? :Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 11:36 am
The inclusive angle may not change if you do this will a FFG but it will on a hollow grind, and if you do it enough the serrations eventually shorten in height to the point of being deleted off the blade, not to mention the edge will also work it's way off center of the blade. It may be a fine practice for a knife that doesn't see much use and is only sharpened on fine stones but I'd never do it for my users that see edge damage that needs fixed often.
Wartstein wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 12:01 pmWhy would the inclusive angle not change if an ffg (SE) chisel grind is only sharpened on the "backside"? :Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 11:36 am
The inclusive angle may not change if you do this will a FFG but it will on a hollow grind, and if you do it enough the serrations eventually shorten in height to the point of being deleted off the blade, not to mention the edge will also work it's way off center of the blade. It may be a fine practice for a knife that doesn't see much use and is only sharpened on fine stones but I'd never do it for my users that see edge damage that needs fixed often.
Let's say the ffg SE knife comes with 20 degree INCLUSIVE from the factory: Since it has a chisel grind hat 20 degrees are on the scalloped side, while the "backside" has basically zero degrees.
Now if one exclusively always only sharpens that backside, the inclusive angle just has to get more obtuse? But perhaps I am missing something...
Ditto. I find each to have it's strengths, and while I use the PE more, there are definitely many situations where the SE is far superior for my tasks.
Every Spyder Edge I've seen already has a bevel on the back side, they still finish the edge with a bevel on both sides, so in that regard you can most likely improve on the factory edge with a bit more grinding on the primary bevel.Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 11:36 amWartstein wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 10:43 amJoshua J. wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 6:41 amThis is the perfect demonstration of why SE blades should only be sharpened flat with the primary bevel on the back side of the serrations.
Rather than making the edge bevel thicker, grinding the back side just makes the edge thinner and it cuts better.
And rather than erasing the shape of the scallops, you keep the factory scallops through the entire useful life of the knife.
Not so sure about that: Only "grinding the backside" will also remove the acute SE chisel grind and make the inclusive angle more obtuse, won't it?
The inclusive angle may not change if you do this will a FFG but it will on a hollow grind, and if you do it enough the serrations eventually shorten in height to the point of being deleted off the blade, not to mention the edge will also work it's way off center of the blade. It may be a fine practice for a knife that doesn't see much use and is only sharpened on fine stones but I'd never do it for my users that see edge damage that needs fixed often.
Joshua J. wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 1:36 pm
Every Spyder Edge I've seen already has a bevel on the back side, they still finish the edge with a bevel on both sides, so in that regard you can most likely improve on the factory edge with a bit more grinding on the primary bevel.
Hollow Ground blades are especially good because, like sharpening a straight razor, the hollow just makes it much faster to sharpen.
Yes, once you've thinned the blade to nothing that is the end of the useful life of the blade.
On most folders after about 1/8 of the spine to edge width is ground off the edge is no longer covered by the handle anyway, forcing the knife into retirement (unless you're going to disassemble the knife and adjust the kick). Some handles do cover more blade than others so it's not universal, but at least this way after the serrations are gone you've still got an effective slicer.
Even if you do believe in maintaining the scallops you are far better off sharpening away the majority of the scallop bevel before trying to grind the scallops deeper into the blade.
Starting off your sharpening routine by thickening an already very thick bevel goes against basic principles of knife sharpening.